I've just opened a bottle of a wine that exists no more - 2001 Chteau Canon de Brem, Canon-Fronsac. The limestone elegance shows through it, it has fine tannins, enough fruit to keep it moving, but basically a long, elegant, discreet claret with yesteryear virtues. The owners also own the adjoining Chteau La Dauphine, Fronsac, and three years ago they decided (a rare thing in Bordeaux) to de-classify the Canon de Brem vineyard into Fronsac, as the law allows, and make La Dauphine only. Rest in peace Canon de Brem. Yet, what a fine wine with some lamb cutlets this is.
(The de-classification was not altruistic. Seems La Dauphine sells much better...)
I don't know if it's compelling or not, but a wine such as Prof. Jean-Nol Boidron's Chteau Corbin-Michotte (St milion Grand Cru Class) always delights me because it's so natural, fleshy and real. I've seen a French explanation of its terroir that's pretty interesting:
"Ce vignoble na jamais t trait avec des herbicides. La typicit du vin est due son sol. Celui-ci est sablo-limoneux brun gris reposant sur un sous-sol sablo-argileux fortement ferrugineux (crasse de fer), avec quelques graves en surface. Il sagit dune nappe alluviale quartenaire de lIsle. Certains lments proviennent du Massif Central. Ce sol est un des plus riches en certains oligolments, en particulier en baryum."
I guess it's the iron in the subsoil that gives it that eminently likable fleshiness. Good stuff. Modest prices.