I had a bottle of the '89 and '90 that I opened w/in the past year. Unfortunately one was corked (can't remember offhand which), but the other was transcendent.
David, I'm not so sure such things are parlor tricks- unless by unlikely you're referring to their difficulty in reproducing due to access of materials. Sure, there's unusual things going on in both, but it's not hard to see why it might be brilliant together.
I can see SFJoe's Gravner, too- especially Ribolla Gialla. A Goldmuskateller (same grape) from the Alto Adige or Shrock's dry Furmint would have been my recommendation for things I have in stock right now in the store, for similar reasons to why I think the Scheu worked. There's that glycerine weight, minty musky spice, good acid, etc. The amphora prep w/ the Gravner would be an interesting twist- the skin tannin and the sharp herbal can work. In another direction but similar umami/bitter vs. orange wine, I recently did Coenobium Rusticum w/ lean flank steak, bright tomatoes, and chimichurri that worked well.
