Thirty-seven wines and two amari. Five hours. Private room with one big table. Levi.
There were a few familiar faces in the room but only Robert Dentice, Lee Campbell and I were veterans of Orange I. Papa Rahsaan was there, as was Frank Cornelissen's importer, Zev. I sat next to a fellow Brooklynite, William. The Fabulous Miss Lee Campbell graced us. And so many more!
Alas, with so many wines (on the table and in me) and so much conversation my notes are skimpy. I did use a simple 'plus or minus' system of scoring just to remind me of the overtones on the few jotted words.
Onward.
waiters bring around the canapes: lardo crostino, uni arancini, passato di funghi con ricotta
2008 Red Hook Jamesport Vineyard Reserve Sauvignon Blanc, Long Island - way too sour (--)
NV Costadila Prosecco, Veneto - first parcel... very yellow, tastes a lot like hard cider (-)
NV Costadila Prosecco, Veneto - second parcel... pale, interesting mingling of typical prosecco flavors with some cidery notes, slightly spirity (0)
2007 Tedeschi Pignoletto Spungola Bellaria, Emilia - opinion very divided on this wine: I think it shows an intensely sweet cherry flavor but others say it tastes like plastic (0)
2008 Camillo Donati Malvasia Frizzante Secco, Emilia - unattractive nose of shredded lettuce and salad dressing; improves with air but still (0)
served: polenta con creste di gallo
Frank Cornelissen Munjebel Bianco 6, Sicilia - first wine that seems like more than a lab experiment: the tannins and acids and flavors dance around each other, some VA perhaps?, definitely smells of face-powder (+)
Frank Cornelissen Munjebel Bianco 4, Sicilia - similar nose but has settled into a more pit fruit scent, lots of umami on the palate, this had been one of my favorites at Orange I (++)
2007 Il Tufiello "Don Chisciotte" Fiano, Campania - subtle to the point of being tame, there's a wan kirschy note but not much else (0)
2007 Giardino "Gaia" Fiano, Campania - ruined by brett
2008 Panevino Bianco "Alvas", Sardegna - this smells strongly of basil oil and a bit of cut grass, it's a little sweet but interestingly herbaceous; with air this starts to get overpowering (+)
2006 Dettori Bianco, Sardegna - Levi says this is vermentino rasied in acacia; flowers and green grapes, nice grip; some people say the alcohol sticks out (+)
served: uovo in raviolo alla bergese
2008 Monastero Suore Cistercensi "Coenobium", Lazio - bitter, astringent, and resinous; much consternation at the table that Bea has had a misfire; the 2007, at Orange I, was also too bitter (-)
2008 Monastero Suore Cistercensi "Rusticum", Lazio - tangy, figgy, rich and viscous and masculine (++)
2008 Paolo Bea "Santa Chiara, Vigneto Pagliaro", Umbria - floral, slutty, very popular at the table (++)
2006 Paolo Bea "Arboreus", Umbria - after those last two wines this one is a "yahbut" (0)
2004 Paolo Bea "Arboreus", Umbria - silky, complex, clear notes of plum and apricot (+)
2007 Massa Vecchia Bianco, Toscana - intense nose, roses and that powdered-sugar smell of loukoum, bright acidity, the 2005 was good at Orange I too (++)
2007 Massa Vecchia "Ariento" Bianco, Toscana - tangy but ordinary (0)
2007 Gualandi "Vinum", Toscana - corked
2007 Dinavolo Malvasia, Emilia - amaro nose (herby and rooty), but drink it and it's been spoiled by brett
2008 Ca' de Noci "Notte di Luna", Emilia - buttery apricots, suave, resembles the 2006 more than the 2007 (+)
2008 La Biancara Bianco "Pico", Veneto - another bretty wine, like almond butter gone rancid (it took 4 of us to put that phrase together...)
2007 La Biancara Bianco "Taibane", Veneto - late-harvest; at first, just waxy and sweet; with air, develops a metallic taste; at Orange I the previous vintage of this wine also had strange flavors
2008 La Biancara Bianco "Pico", Veneto - well, there are 2 bottles of this so let's try the other one: watery, acid-deficient, some say it is viscous and flat
served: brassato di vitello (or a scallop dish for the non-red-meat-eaters)
2002 Gravner "Anfora" "Breg", Friuli - all the Gravner wines were double-decanted 4 hours ahead; open, complicated palate (+)
2004 Gravner "Anfora" "Breg", Friuli - narrow profile, eh (0)
2004 Gravner "Anfora" Ribolla Gialla, Friuli - good (0)
2004 Radikon "Jakot", Friuli - face-powder and raspberry, warming, seamless wine, I have always liked this one (++)
2004 Radikon "Oslavje", Friuli - eh (-)
2004 Radikon Ribolla Gialla, Friuli - yeah, it's orange wine but it also lacks anything that would make it charming (0)
Zidarich Prulke, Friuli - another well-made wine, very tannic, interesting (+)
2005 Vodopivec Vitovska Classica, Friuli - slightly too bitter (0)
2006 Vodopivec "Amphora" Vitovska, Friuli - bitterness buffered by rich texture (+)
2004 Damijan "Kaplja Bianco", Friuli - closed, maybe closed continuously since Orange I (0)
served: formaggio comte
2007 Movia "Lunar", Brda, Slovenia - briny and tangy, nicely done (++)
2005 Louis Magnin Grand Orgue Chignin-Bergeron, Savoie - hey, this isn't orange!, it's ok... I guess (0)
2008 Laureano Serres Vinyes Arrancades Catalunya - salty, smoky, tannins bite way at the end
the crowd clamored for amari...
Amaro S. Maria al Monte - this is my ideal of amaro: the herbs, the roots, the brewed flavor tug my attention back and forth
Amaro del Capo - a little more relaxing than the al Monte: less intense roots and more sweet fruit