Meadows July Article on P'ox

Ian Fitzsimmons

Ian Fitzsimmons
Just read a new article (apparently the most recent in a series of annual articles on the subject) by Meadows in Cellar Tracker, seconded from Meadows's own mag. Focus is on pneumatic presses over-protecting must from oxygen during pressing. One for the chemists.
 
This isn't the first time someone has suggested that the new presses might be the culprit. Not having access to the article, I am curious about how Meadows' treatment goes beyond what's already been said along somewhat similar lines.
 
most certainly not the first time. This has been talked about for a while, during visits to Burgundy. There are a few versions, ranging from new presses to use of sulfur to protect the wine against oxidation early on. The common theme seems to be, in popular mechanics terms, the preservation of "oxidative molecule" to allow it do its deed once in bottle. My favourite one was "my neighbour's father used to make really great white wine because, unlike his son, he was not afraid to let the juice get brown for a couple of days".
 
originally posted by .sasha:
not afraid to let the juice get brown for a couple of days".

Interestingly, this has been shown to be a big difference maker in Champagne - especially in some of the more "at the edge" vintages like 2003. To a degree 1996 in Champagne also comes into play, because those that pressed too hard or tried to correct a potential mistake with sulfur paid dearly with wines that have matured much faster than anyone would have anticipated. When you add early maturity to a harsh acidity like 1996, you can end up with a messy, disjointed wine where once great potential was possible.

Not a Burg head, but what Meadows says makes a lot of sense to me based on what I have seen and tasted in Champagne (and, yes, I know they are different wines/regions).
 
originally posted by Brad Baker:
originally posted by .sasha:
not afraid to let the juice get brown for a couple of days".

Interestingly, this has been shown to be a big difference maker in Champagne - especially in some of the more "at the edge" vintages like 2003. To a degree 1996 in Champagne also comes into play, because those that pressed too hard or tried to correct a potential mistake with sulfur paid dearly with wines that have matured much faster than anyone would have anticipated. When you add early maturity to a harsh acidity like 1996, you can end up with a messy, disjointed wine where once great potential was possible.

Not a Burg head, but what Meadows says makes a lot of sense to me based on what I have seen and tasted in Champagne (and, yes, I know they are different wines/regions).
Brad -- Have you seen premox-type problems with Champagnes?
 
Brad, thanks for joining in here. Could you identify a few producers that you view to be on each side of the panic method, for reference?
 
It occurred to me a while back that they'd simply lost the recipe, it being so extremely hard to find decent ordinary white burgundy now whereas even 1960s bottles from modest negociants are often still proper.
Brad, your description of the structural disjunct in 96 champagnes seems to describe exactly the impression I had from many red wines from the vintage a couple of years ago. It does seem to have righted itself in most cases as far as I can see.
 
originally posted by Tom Blach:
Brad, your description of the structural disjunct in 96 champagnes seems to describe exactly the impression I had from many red wines from the vintage a couple of years ago.

If you are referring to 96 red burgundy, then I agree emphatically.

It does seem to have righted itself in most cases as far as I can see.

Lets hope so. Yes, I've had some nicely integrated examples in the past year, but I have not had a chance to retaste any of the wines which had bothered me earlier.
 
Let me state a few things before getting into more detail:
1. Champagne and Burgundy are quite different wines and while there are certainly similarities, they are not the same and can't be treated as such. The issues that have affected Burgundy are both similar and different to some of the challenges Champagne has had
2. There is not a premox problem in Champagne although there have been issues with some wines maturing faster than normal in certain vintages. 1996 is one example and 2003 is another. While many have come to expect this from 2003, I'm not sure this had to be the case.
3. I'm an engineer who drinks too much Champagne and not a scientist so I apologize if I can't speak to the nth degree on anything. Sorry for the long and boring post below that wasn't checked by an editor so there are probably numerous typos.

1996 is an interesting case as it was a year like none other. High acidity, high potential alcohol, and high grape phenolics that went a little wacky in the Pinot Noir grapes. If you weren't careful in how you handled and pressed your Pinot Noir grapes, you could end up with a case where the phenolics tilted towards the wrong side and you were left with a wine that could mature/oxidize much quicker than expected even while maintaining a sizzling acidity. In a case where Champagne is a bit opposite than Burgundy, you really wanted to be gentle in your handling and pressing of Pinot Noir in 1996 in order to prevent too much phenolic impact in the juice. Adding to the situation was the case where some producers saw the wine going out of balance and decided to add Sulfur as soon as they saw things going unexpectedly. This did nothing but prolong the wine from going out of balance and rapidly maturing. It actually made things worse in a lot of cases as while a wine may mature early as a whole, it may do this quite unevenly between bottles (meaning some bottles will be well advanced while others not as bad). In this instance the same thing Burghound mentioned via corks and oxidation can be applicable to 1996 Champagnes that rely on a lot of Pinot Noir. By no means are all 1996s affected or all Pinot Noir heavy blends affected, but if you notice some of your Pinot Noir heavy bottles taking on some rather mature notes, this is why. Luckily for us all, I think Champagne learned a lot from 1996 and will know how to handle things better next time. A lot of folks in Champagne weren't ga-ga over 1996 as no one really knew what the wines were going to taste like when they were released. Some were spectacular, but it was the press that really drove this vintage. One other comment - once the affected wines start maturing early, they don't reverse their course.

Who had problems in 1996 - Bollinger, Billecart-Salmon, Egly-Ouriet, Lanson, Perrier-Jouet, and Veuve Clicquot are some who had problems. These problems didn't always mean a bad wine, just one that may have a blunted peak or may peak early.

2003 is an interesting case as this vintage was low in acid and high in potential alcohol. Everything you need for a tasty, open, and not long lived vintage. The juice in this vintage was very fragile with a lot of phenolics coming through that would cause the wine to oxidize and ferment very quickly. Most folks added a bunch of Sulfur very early on in the pressing process to prevent oxidation and attempt to preserve potential, but this didn't do anything, but prolong the inevitable and make the wine more unstable down the line. The potential for real greatness was never there in 2003 so attempting to hang onto this didn't make a lot of sense. If you made the choice to let the wine oxidize and stabilize itself before adding Sulfur later in the process, you may have given up on the false dream of greatness, but you got a better wine and one that likely will be longer lived. In addition to this, once the wines were in tank, Nitrogen could be used to force Oxygen out and create a reductive environment if desired.

The best example of who may have made a pretty darn good wine in 2003 by allowing the musts to oxidize was Moet/Dom Perignon. Time will tell, but I think they got things right in 2003 and the wines should be fairly long lived.

It is also interesting to look at exactly how different producers allow their musts/wines to oxidize. A lot more producers are coming to the conclusion that allowing a wine to oxidize a bit at some point can give it better balance and structure through its life. Whether this oxidation is very early on in the process or while the first fermentation matures, both reductive and oxidative styles can benefit from this. For oxidative styles, the classic way to do this has always been via barrel, but the concrete eggs are proving to be very interesting as they allow for some oxygenation without the impact of wood. Allowing musts to get some oxygen is also proving very interesting for those who prefer the reductive style.

It all comes down to balance and allowing the wine to reach its natural equilibrium. Forcing it one way or another may not always have a notable negative affect on the wine, but it can.
 
Brad,

I'm no wine chemist, but I wonder about your notion of phenolics making a wine vulnerable to oxidation. It tends to be more the reverse, the most general example being of course red wines being much more resistant to oxidation than whites, mostly on account of the far higher concentrations of phenolics in reds.
 
SFJoe,

My understanding is that there are both good and bad phenolics in the grapes. The grape type and the degree to which you press the wines has an effect on what is released. A red grape like Pinot Noir is going to release different levels of phenolics depending on whether a red wine or white wine is made with it. Something went funny in 1996 where a number of white Pinot Noir wines showed a predominance of bad (oxidizable) phenols. I'm not saying it is the norm and there clearly isn't a premox problem in Champagne, but it can rear its head and it does have a commonality with what Burgundy is experiencing.
 
Certainly there are all sorts of fragile things that are lost in "brown" white wine production and kept in carefully non-oxidative white wines that oxidize easily, and I suppose some of them could be phenolic. But I'm still puzzled.

Oswaldo, I owe you a drink.
 
I agree that 96 Selosse is a great wine. I love it, but any problems with 1996 Champagne seem to only be related to Pinot Noir. Again, 1996 is a great vintage and many great wines were made, but quite a few disappointments and underachievers exist - many more than their should be.
 
Ray,

I haven't had the 96 RD in over a year. To clarify what I meant about Bollinger - it doesn't mean the wine is bad; it just means that it is aging on a much faster curve than I think most would expect. This isn't a wine I would personally keep much longer than 2015 and I don't think it will get much better than it is right now.

Specifically speaking of the RD, I preferred the Grande Annee in 1996 to the RD. Don't get me wrong, the RD is good, but I don't think it is worth the price especially when the Grande Annee is less. In general, I have not found Bollinger's RD series to be worth cellaring more than 2-5 years post-disgorgement with 2-3 being the sweet spot for most vintages (1988 being a recent example of one where I thought 5 years was the sweet spot). I'm not saying the wine goes bad after 2-5 years, but it starts a slow downward spiral.

Most of the pre-maturity seen by the 1996 cuvees really starts taking place post disgorgement and can take a few years to start showing. With the 96 RD, I think the wine would likely be on the downslope (for my palate) by the time any other pre-mature factors would be kicking in.
 
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