Palliser

J

Joel Stewart

Joel Stewart
2003 Palliser Estate, Riesling, Martinborough, NZ (13.5%) - Seemingly on the cusp of freshness and secondary. Some initial reduction from the screwcap...burnt rubber, sulfur, and behind it, honey. Double decanted and put back in the fridge with cap off for a couple of hours. Nose then eventually shows some petrol, sea air, a bit of lime...and with time, gardenia and fresh cut pineapple. Palate is confident, but not overbearingly ripe. Green apple, musk, a rich saline middle, lime and grapefruit on the finish. It bears it's weight well and is nicely defined/integrated....tho not mistakable for any other place. Probably peaking for those who enjoy this type of wine at this stage of development. Not that I've longed for much from the new world, but after having this, I do wish I had more. It's only $19 after all and perfect for toaster oven-made nan pizzas.
 
Palliser Estate has changed styles quite a few times, and I think winemakers along the way. Always a mystery what one is going to get.
 
I thought the Felton Road 2009 was fine if undistinguished. I don't have much use for simple, quaffing, nearly dry or dry Riesling, much like Chenin Blanc. HFCS would be helpful in most cases.
 
Paul White can provide 394 paragraphs on the environmental impact of HFCS riesling vs. traditionally-sugared riesling, if you're interested.

Pegasus Bay, yes...start at the bottom with the Main Divide, then work your way up to the Aria, then figure out if you want to delve into the true stickies. Fromm. Felton Road (but the Block 1 much more than the regular or dry). Peregrine made some fabulous rieslings, but last I checked they were in the process of losing their way, so I'd be cautious. Kaimira. Dry River (probably cost you at least a leg, though). Neudorf. Glover's, but only if you can find the 1997 late-harvest. Gibbston, sometimes. We've now exhausted my personal (and occasionally dated) experience and you'd be better with someone who lives there; maybe Russell Briggs is still lurking hereabouts?

A lot of riesling down there is, as Yixin suggests, good enough and off-dry. For the same price, you'd probably want something from elsewhere.
 
Thanks for the suggestions, gentlemen, and yeah, the price issue is duly noted. I do tend towards off-dry...and really prefer Austrian expressions, but they're harder to come by here and dearer.
 
For NZ rieslings keep you eye out for the Gibbston Valley Le Fou, Mt Difficulty Target Gulley and Fromm.

Some cracking stuff from Pyramid Valley in Nth Cant also....the Lebecca Riesling is excellent and Mike is a kindred spirit....last time I went to lunch at his place we had a Valentini Trebbiano d'Abruzzo & a Foillard 3.14
 
I haven't been a fan of the Mt. Difficulty Target Gully, but maybe recent vintages have been better.
 
Second the Pyramid Valley rec; I thought the Lebecca Vyd Riesling in particular was very impressive. I've also liked some of Craggy Range's Rieslings (though haven't had as many as I would like).
 
originally posted by Thor:
Thanks for the Pyramid Valley rec, by the way. Someone to look for on my next visit.
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You should definitely catch up with Mike & Claudia if you go to NZ...he's right into his natural wines and is a super winemaker. He's very passionate about his piece of land...he travelled NZ for several years taking soil samples and sending them back to Burgundy for analysis before finding the right soil profile just between Waikari & Hawarden.

He had Claude Bourgignon staying at his place on his visit to NZ and Claude did some studies on the soils in the area.

Another great little winery is just down the road from Mike and that's Bell Hill...just Pinot and Chardonnay though but beautiful wines. Planting at 12,000 plants and acre on steep slopes and limestone rich soils...
 
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