I suspect that too, but I'd love to know where he draws his dividing line. Four courses? Five? It's kind of a dumb distinction to draw, sort of like his identification of the bread as a course. Sorry: no, it's not. It's a course at Etxebarri, where they serve it in snowflake form on a plate with an incredible sphere of butter, separate from anything they might offer to accompany the other courses. Unless it's served like that, it's an adjunct. Is the water a course? A chocolate served with the espresso? A niblet atop the check? The mints in a jar by the door? (What are they for? Lonely people?)