Summer tipples

MarkS

Mark Svereika
This summer has been damn hot, too damn hot if you ask me, but - damn the torpedos - full-kilter reds don't deter me in 90-degree heat!

Vajra, Barolo, 'Albe', 2005
Should have bought a case of this as a house wine, just all-around excellent, with lightly floral scents, light tar, tart cherry and aspirin. Very bright and fresh, and - while not a long ager - will keep well for at least 5-6 years. 14.5% A-

Domaine du Mas Blanc, Collioure, 'Clos du Moulin', 2004
Color is a light cherry red showing a watery meniscus. The usual salty plum, wakame seaweed and peat aromas are here, and this shows in the flavor profile as well. Developing nicely from a previous bottle which was showing a bit overwrought. Looks like it's open for business now. A-

Domaine de Suremain, Mercurey, 'les Sazenay', 2005
Light cranberry red color. Muted red fruits and mint on the nose. Red fruits, bright cranberry-sour cherry, with a Sweetart finish. Feeling like it needs a couple of years to sort out. Quite different (stronger, rougher) than the les Cret vineyard wine tasted earlier. 13% B+, should improve.

Reinhard Knebel, Winninger Rttgen, riesling, S, 2004
Softish lemony flavors, soft in acidity, good persistence on the finish, if a little less than inspired. 9% B+

Domaine les Grands Bois, Rasteau, 'Cuvee Marc', 2006
Deep, dark purplered. Showing a dull nose upon opening, as if taking the short schoolbus in in the morning. Briary berries, ultra thick and low acid, like a CA wine. Kind of boring. Pass. 14% B

Pierre-Marie Chermette (Vissoux), Fleurie, 'les Garants', 2005
Floral rose notes. Palate shows a floral quality with succulent fruit and obvious alcohol. This still maintains a talc powder finish, but the alcohol intrudes, sullying the fruit. B/B+ (formally an A- 2 years ago). Fading, to me.

Aubry, Champagne, 'le Nombre d'Or', brut, 2002
This is made from 5 varieties as I understand. There's pear-apple skin pomice on the nose and palate, tasting a little oxidative, a little tired, good only. Mildly bubbly. Interesting, but I'd like to see a little more verve. B/B+

Fattoria le Pupille, Morellino di Scansano, 'Poggio Valente', 2000
Muted nose of cherry and leather...needs to cool a bit to show better (mid-90's this week). Delicious cherry and licorice, leather seat, and adding a slight bit of rust giving a metallic bite to the finish. At a good age right now, but with room for more development. No noticeable oak treatment and nothing overdone at all. Good sangio from a ripe year, but balanced and restrained. Yummy! 13.5% A-
 
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