Keith Levenberg
Keith Levenberg
I had a delicious bottle of Clos Roche Blanche 2009 Pineau d'Aunis Ros last week. I am not generally the biggest ros fan 'cuz too many, even the good ones (including many pricey Champagnes), have this confectionary, cotton-candied taste to them -- the ross I like are the ones that are so pale they are barely ros at all. This one fits in that bucket. A little carbonic spritz contributes to its racy profile and makes it probably the perfect summer refresher (too bad I didn't get to it until after Labor Day) that's hedonistic in the original, non-Parkeresque sense of the word, a wine to guzzle with thoughtless abandon. It seems to achieve the profile that wines like the Ameztoi Rubentis are shooting for but in my experience the Ameztoi has never pulled it off as well as this does. When the spritz mellows in the leftovers the next day, it retains the same edginess and bite, now derived as much from the usual tart, peppery kick I love in CRB's wines.
But wait! When I went back for more (all gone, as it turns out), Chambers Street informed me that the spritz was, er, unintentional: "Several people who tasted the wine recently discovered it to be re-fermenting, dry and with ptillant when it had been ever so slightly off-dry and totally still." Silly me! In any event, my bottle didn't give off any fermentive odors and the dry profile and spritziness accounted for a lot of what I loved about the wine. I actually much preferred it to previous vintages that weren't as bracing. That's my story and I'm sticking to it. But if anyone's looking for an excuse to ignore all my pearls of wisdom, here you go.
But wait! When I went back for more (all gone, as it turns out), Chambers Street informed me that the spritz was, er, unintentional: "Several people who tasted the wine recently discovered it to be re-fermenting, dry and with ptillant when it had been ever so slightly off-dry and totally still." Silly me! In any event, my bottle didn't give off any fermentive odors and the dry profile and spritziness accounted for a lot of what I loved about the wine. I actually much preferred it to previous vintages that weren't as bracing. That's my story and I'm sticking to it. But if anyone's looking for an excuse to ignore all my pearls of wisdom, here you go.