Pecchenino's Barolo

Saina Nieminen

Saina Nieminen
Advisory: contains much ranting.

A new Barolo, Pecchenino's Le Coste 2004 became available at our monopoly. Alko's description of it was promising so I decided to try a bottle: it speaks of Slavonian oak barrels instead of barriques so I thought, despite half of the wood being new, that it wouldn't really shine through in such big botti. So I opened it, stuck my nose in the glass and got a massive stench of toffee and overripe, raisiny fruit mixed with some banana aromas (did they use the infamous Lalvin yeast that Duboeuf used to use for Beaujolais?).

Thick, sweet (since when has young Barolo had sweet fruit sensations?), low in acidity (since when has young Barolo felt low in acidity?) and with rather too smooth tannins, so mouthcoating and velvety and powdery that I wonder if they really are tannins (since when...?). It left a strange taste in my mouth, so I went to a mirror and stuck out my tongue at my image. Much to my chagrin I found it laminated in oak. I should pour this wine on my floors as I'm tired of the material there.

So off I went a-Googling and I find out from the producer's website that it not only sees botti but barriques also.

Alko's description of the wine makes it seem like something more traditional with its mention of cherries and strong tannins. I'm assuming whoever made the descriptions for Alko wasn't being malicious in writing such misleading information - I am sure they were only utterly incompetent. Shame on you, Alko, for getting such incompetents who don't know what traditional Barolo tastes like to write up a spoofy example in such traditional terms, and for providing misleading information about the wine. And shame on me for actually trusting anything that was published on Alko's website.

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These are the same as the Dolcetto di Dogliani folks?

I have to mention that the 2005 rupestris from Capellano tasted this morning had a certain sweetness about the fruit.
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
These are the same as the Dolcetto di Dogliani folks?
Someone on another board says that these are the Dolcetto di Dogliani people, and if you look closely at Otto's photo, you can see that they are located in Dogliani. But there is no relationship that I can determine between style of Nebbiolo and style of Dolcetto for a given producer. Many of the B&B producers I find most offensive do in fact make traditional and enjoyable Dolcetti (for Barbera, though, see Thor).
 
This was from Orlando & Attilio Pecchenino, so from the famed Dolcetto producers. But since they haven't been available here before, I had no idea they were so famous nor that they have a tendency to use new oak.
 
I've always thought of Pecchenino as the dolcetto folks - never seen a Barolo from them before. But I've tasted sweetness in Baroli before.
 
It's nice to be known for something.

Frankly, I'm not sure there's much correlation between barbara style and what a given house does with Barolo/Barbaresco, either. To an extent, the offenses committed against nebbiolo can be turned into a positive of sorts for barbera, as long as you accept that you're getting something modern, because the producer might actually know how to handle oak, and because the fruit is probably ripe enough. Doesn't mean you'll like the result, of course.
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
These are the same as the Dolcetto di Dogliani folks?

I have to mention that the 2005 rupestris from Capellano tasted this morning had a certain sweetness about the fruit.

Aw who hasn't taken a little Pie for breakfast now and again?
 
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