I felt like he explained what he was going to do and why he was going to do it, then went on to do it, mostly, for the food and the ambiance. Perhaps not for the dcor. The major error was rhapsodizing about a wine list he barely mentioned. One might have a few other quibbles here and there, but it was a sensible and supportable review. Well-written. Not stylish, but fair enough for the genre.
(You did ask for our thoughts on the review, not the restaurant.)