Al-Andalus 1996 and Ksara

Saina Nieminen

Saina Nieminen
This week has been quite a hectic one, traveling (too much of it by walking) around Syria looking for Roman roads and other late antique, rather unpicturesque sites like like al-Andarine, with its newly found "basalt Basilica".

But I did have time to visit a few more picturesque sites, too, and to eat numerous very good meals (one needs energy for this type of work), and to try a couple bottles.

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St. Simeon chose a rather nice place to sit on top of a pillar ... uhmmmm ... stub

In Tartus, previously called Tortosa, we had a lovely meal of only mezze and tried an awful Syrian wine, Al'Andalus Old Wine 1996 from Homs, Syria with a funny back label mentioning that it is produced in a grape factory! That should have been the first warning sign. Brown. Smells of vinegar. Tastes like our tabboule and fattoush used it as seasoning. Amazingly these two vinegar infused salads made the wine much less worse than it was, with the vinegar of the dish cutting through the vinegar of the wine to reveal a bit of raisiny fruit in there! I would rather drink spoofy wine than this.

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Thankfully some Lebanese wines are available (though not Musar). Ksara's Blanc de Blancs 2007 is too oaky, but has lovely, strong acidity. Tries too hard to be something serious rather than just fun and gluggable.

Like the Bl de Bl, Ksara's Blanc de l'Observatoire 2009 is a rather strange blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Muscat and Clairette, but it works. It isn't over-ripe though the Bekaa Valley isn't a cool region, they are only about 12,5% abv. Nicely aromatic, but despite some obvious Muscat aromas, the nose doesn't promise sweetness as do so many other wines with strong Muscat aromas. And, indeed, it is crisp, high in acidity and very moreish with some fresh fish in a herbal sauce during the hot period of day on Arwad island just off the coast from Tartus.

Anyway, now I'm back in Damascus for a few days before heading off to the colder, less civilized part of the world.

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Enjoyed the sunset at Azem Palace in the old town
 
Beautiful photos, Otto, and a stimulating travelogue, too -- thanks! One of your advantages being from a non-aligned country is that travel to Syria and other parts of the Arab world is less fraught with political overtones, though I am sure that some danger remains even for a Finn. As an American with features suggestive of a Jewish heritage (not to mention the occasional Israeli visa on my US passport), I have never felt comfortable traveling to the Arab world apart from West Jerusalem, the Al Aksa mosque, the Dome of the Rock, the West Bank and the Golan Heights. Is wine a commonplace in Syrian society? I realize that the Assads, like many of the historical Arab strongmen, are fairly secular in outlook, but I'm not aware of how much that reflects Syrian society. Was this trip a vacation for you, or was it part of your studies?

Mark Lipton
 
Wow, Syria. Damn, that is so cool.

We used to drink the basic Ksara red and white in my salad days - was a decent tipple for about $10.
 
Mark, being American and Jewish is no problem - only the Israeli visas are (you can't get into the country with one in the passport). My traveling companion is an American, and she has traveled here before alone and with no knowledge of Arabic and has still felt completely safe. The dangers of traveling in most of the Arab world are hugely exaggerated - especially so in America. If I were Jewish and American, I would feel much safer traveling in Syria than in the occupied areas of Palestine!

About 20-25% of Syrians are Christians so alcohol is widely available wherever Christians are (so not so much in the eastern parts and the city of Hama, but everywhere else).

This trip was a combination of work and pleasure. Though the work was pleasurable, too.

Tonight, if I'm feeling brave enough, I might try a Syrian wine of a more recent vintage and one that hasn't been made in a grape factory.
 
"Al Andalus" - i.e., 'Spain' in Arabic! And they have the gall to make a bad wine with such a name! :-)
 
John, nope. What is it?

I dared to try another Syrian wine tonight, with much better results! Jan'in al-Ard / Domaine al-Ard Ctes de l'Oronte 2009 is a red blend of Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Caladoc (what is this?) made by a French oenologist. I don't know where exactly along the Orontes it is from, since the back label mentions maritime influence, yet the only town name is that of Homs which is so far inland that I wouldn't have expected maritime influence there.

Anyway, the wine is only 11,5% according to the label but is fully ripe. The Syrah is much in evidence in its gamy slightly rustic scent, though such is the sun in Syria that it is veering more towards Shiraz than Syrah stylistically (though with no oak that I can sense). Seems a bit dilute on attack, but fills out well. Nice acidity despite the hot climate style: refreshing, clean finish.

Not bad at all, especially since it costs about 3 a bottle.

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originally posted by Otto Nieminen:
John, nope. What is it?

I dared to try another Syrian wine tonight, with much better results! Jan'in al-Ard / Domaine al-Ard Ctes de l'Oronte 2009 is a red blend of Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Caladoc (what is this?) made by a French oenologist.

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As far as I know Caladoc is a cross between Malbec and Grenache. I've come across it only once, as an inexpensive though tasty Merlot/Caladoc blend from Vaucluse.
 
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