3 Extra-Brut: Collin, Ledru and Vouette et Sorbe

[Arno Tronche]

For some reasons, the last 3 Champagnes I had the past 2 weeks were all extra-brut...and all very good.

Ulysse Collin Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs
Very light bubbles, this is more a wine than a Champagne. Very mineral, a touch of wood, not a lot of fruit (hint of green apple/lemon). I really like the austerity and focus of this Champagne. Long finish. Very subtle.

Marie-Noelle Ledru Grand Cru Extra Brut
I really enjoyed this one. 85% pinot and 15% Chardonnay. This is very elegant and very steely. You can definitely tell there is no dosage. A little bit austere with lively mousse, there's a hint of red fruits with lemony notes. With air, more yeasty/brioche notes.

Vouette et Sorbe Extra Brut Fidle
Based on 2007 vintage and disgorged in December 2009. 100% pinot noir.
Not easy to approach, it is nevertheless a fascinating Champagne. Wonderful nose with some wood notes and spices. There's also a nice chalkiness. Not a lot of bubbles, mineral on the palate with again some light oak notes. Not a ton of fruit even though this is 100% pinot. This is quite elegant and not very exuberant but rich as the same time. It's an experience hard to describe.
I'd like to try one with a little more age but this is really good.

All very good Champagnes, subtles and elegant. All about finesse and balance.

 

[Jay Miller]

I had another Collin on Saturday which was much as you describe. Much more Agrapart-like than my first bottle which reminded me more of Selosse. I liked both but am hard put to describe a house style for them at this poing.

I loved the one Fidele I've had. V&S is rapidly climbing up my ranks of favorite Champagne producers.