originally posted by Yixin:
Good point about younger wines - the question could be rephrased as one asking whether the TCA incidence seems to be lower in more recent corks.
Yes, the incidence of TCA
has seemingly been lower over the past few years. I think the cork industry got religion about the time that Stelvin and Vino-lok got market share.
I work a couple of large-scale wine events each year and the sommeliers have a betting pool wherein we estimate how many bottles will be flawed (TCA is invariably -but not always- the culprit but I feel this anecdotal evidence germane to the discussion regardless). At one of the events (World of Pinot Noir) we open about 600 bottles over the course of a couple of days of seminars and meals. Flawed wines opened during the grand tastings aren't counted because the somms don't have control over them. When the event first began, we'd usually have upwards of 80-100 bottles with definite quality issues, almost all cork-related. The past two years the winners of the pool won with guesses in the 12-18 bottle range. Sum-one else can calculate that percentage, but it's low enough to not be a huge concern any more (besides, it's only a buck to get into the pool).
I've also seen vast improvement in the quality of corks that are being shipped to Australia. It felt as if during the mid-to-late 1990s the cork industry was going out of their way to ship substandard corks to Oz. The 1998 vintage has proven to be particularly difficult, with a huge percentage of corks in a lot of high-end bottles turning out to have been tainted by TCA. In reaction to this a lot of winemakers switched to Stelvin and the cork industry reacted by improving their quality control. It's much better these days; it's been months since I had a recent-vintage Aussie wine with TCA issues.
The cork industry has done a good job of correcting a problem, but it's sort of like Boeing saying "hey, our planes aren't crashing as often as they used to." There's still a potential for problems here, and it can't all be blamed on user malfunction.
-Eden (I don't remember whether it was the corked mag of 72 La Tache or the corked mag of 1985 Henri Jayer Richebourg that led me to believe that the Stelvin closure was on to a good thing, regardless of its lack of romance and history)