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Saina Nieminen

Saina Nieminen
Juliette Avril Chteauneuf-du-Pape 2008 - 20,20; 14,5%; 10% was aged in big casks for eight months; "75% Grenache, 25% Syrah and 5% Mourvdre," according to Alko (addition can be challenging).
This was a pretty and a pretty decent little CdP! I quite enjoyed the 2007, too, since it lacked the super-ripeness of so many other Southern Rhne '07s I have tried. But to me, this '08 is in better balance still: ripe but crisp and refreshing red fruit, very typical unspoofulated Grenache-led aromas - the type that makes me understand the occasional reference to Grenache being a little bit similar to Pinot Noir; good grip and acidic enough to be moreish. Amazingly, this has 14,5% abv, but it doesn't come through. It seems like a pretty classic example of a CdP that isn't over-the-top.

Weingut Becker Landgraf im Felsenkeller Gau-Odernheimer Sptburgunder trocken "J" 2008 repeated the outstanding sexiness of the 2007. Just like the '07 was when released, there is a touch of oak noticeable (but very little), but it doesn't obfuscate the Pinosity, which this has in spades. Bright and focused, perhaps a touch more so than the '07. Lovely and moreish.

Yannick Amirault St.-Nicolas de Bourgueil "La Mine" 2008 is a very nice Cabernet Franc. Not as polished and modern as I feared from our past discussions on this producer, but instead one I liked very much tonight (at least in my CF deprived state). Lovely aromas of tobacco and damp earth; savoury without being green at all. Lovely balance: high acidity, pleasantly upright tannins and not too much sweetness of fruit. Grip and crunch and freshness.

Domne Wachau Riesling Smaragd Achleiten 2009 didn't show too much of a hot year character with "only" 13,5% abv. Very mineral and powerful despite some floral aromas. Dry, powerful, focused, immense grip. I don't have a great idea of what is going on in Austria (we only see a couple producers here), but I thought this bottle was some pretty serious shite.
 
I enjoyed the La Mine at the winery 10 days ago and found it more or less as you describe. Didn't find any of their line-up too modern. Wonder what vintages/cuves that notion sprung from.
 
Oswaldo, I can't remember the wines mentioned, but IIRC there were some that see plenty of new oak.

Anyway, I dared to try their Bourgueil "Le Grand Clos" 2008 and, like your report indicated, it does seem a very promising wine. I of course preferred their more open St. Nick de Bourgueil "La Mine" now, but even this brought more than just intellectual pleasure though it is very much a wine that requires ageing. Dark fruit, rather more Bordeaux in character (which probably will damn this wine to most here) than "La Mine" which was perhaps a purer example of Cab Franc and the Loire than this more ambitious cuve. Oak is a little present, but not so much that I would find it alarming. Medium bodied, lovely high acidity which gives this focus. Long, refreshing. A bit harsh at the moment, so I don't think many others will derive great pleasure from it now.
 
Yes, there is a light presence of oak which some might find damning, which brings to mind the delicate balancing act faced by a winemaker who doesn't want the taste of oak but wants the greater microoxigenation that newer oak affords (as well as possible other, less well-understood benefits). According to Luis Pato, such a winemaker has to make a judgment call about what % new oak flavor each of his varities has the structure to absorb in each vintage; his Bagas can usually absorb 100% new oak but his Tourigas usually can't; he also said that oak tannins and grape/stem tannins can polymerize together into something more supple than either. From my limited sample, I thought Amirault does a pretty good job at balancing/otimizing the benefits of oak while minimizing its negatives.
 
originally posted by Otto Nieminen:

Domne Wachau Riesling Smaragd Achleiten 2009 didn't show too much of a hot year character with "only" 13,5% abv. Very mineral and powerful despite some floral aromas. Dry, powerful, focused, immense grip. I don't have a great idea of what is going on in Austria (we only see a couple producers here), but I thought this bottle was some pretty serious shite.
Click to expand...

Domne Wachau is indeed producing some serious shite, albeit in quantities not usually associated with the concept of "serious shite". Under the direction of Roman Horvath (a Master of Wine, so you know it'll be good!) the domne is a co-op that selects less than 10% of its members grapes for use in the Domne Wachau wines. The winery itself is a quite amazing blend of high-tech and 1800s winemaking capabilities.

The Achleiten riesling may be about their most difficult wine to grasp, but it certainly merits cellaring for a decade or two. I often use wines from their "Terrassen" series in wine classes when I want people to get a good handle on what these grape varieties actually taste like. They may not have the cachet of others such as Knoll, Prager, Hirtzberger, or either of the Pichlers, but they sure do taste good and are excellent examples of these wines that are affordable and drinkable by you non-winegeek friends.

-Eden (you do have non-wingeek friends, don't you?)
 
I agree wholly. A bottle of the '05 Achleiten I had a Terroir in August or so was singing. 47 bucks for Smaragd Riesling at this quality is ridiculous, awesome juice. Crazy rocky minerality and giving, but not plush, fruit. What I would love all my Riesling Trocken to be.
 
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