05 Jadot Clos de Malte, 98 Gouges NSG

R

Rahsaan

Rahsaan
2005 Jadot Santenay Clos de Malte
On the nose is juicy Burgundy fruit but at the same time it smells tannic and austere. The palate follows through because in some respects there is plenty of dark fruit but it is also very focused and lightweight. With air the fruit fills in a bit and provides flashes of nice enjoyment with crunchy and clear yet deep firm fruit. Yet, the drying tannins are always present and probably earn some demerit points.

Does anyone have guesses on how this will age? The drying tannins seem to suggest it requires age, and the dark firm fruit might be able to handle it. But the narrow and fragile frame makes me question how long it can really go and what it will turn into?

1998 Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges
Mature resolved and comfortable with the sea bass in soy sauce, ginger, and other aromatics. Nothing to get excited about but for my tastes it was very respectable mature wine in the sub-$30 price bracket.

Also, for those keeping track, the 2005 Moritz Gogrewe Wiltinger Klosterberg Riesling Sptlese is just getting better and better and shows nice clarity on day three. I will indeed look for these wines in the future.
 
On the nose is juicy Burgundy fruit but at the same time it smells tannic and austere.
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Wow, that's so unusual for Jadot. (If I could add an emoticon here, I would.)

Thanks for the update on the Moritz, which I don't know at all, and am eager to find.
 
originally posted by Thor:
Thanks for the update on the Moritz, which I don't know at all, and am eager to find.
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I bought it from Macarthurs for $24, which is pretty fair and I'd like to experiment with more from this house especially if they are in that price range.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
05 Jadot Clos de Malte, 98 Gouges NSG2005 Jadot Santenay Clos de Malte
On the nose is juicy Burgundy fruit but at the same time it smells tannic and austere. The palate follows through because in some respects there is plenty of dark fruit but it is also very focused and lightweight. With air the fruit fills in a bit and provides flashes of nice enjoyment with crunchy and clear yet deep firm fruit. Yet, the drying tannins are always present and probably earn some demerit points.

Does anyone have guesses on how this will age? The drying tannins seem to suggest it requires age, and the dark firm fruit might be able to handle it. But the narrow and fragile frame makes me question how long it can really go and what it will turn into?
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I usually taste this wine from barrel, and sometimes a year later from bottle, but I confess I have no experience down the road with it (in fact, I'm not sure I've ever seen a bottle in a store or on a restaurant wine list). Nevertheless, what you are describing sounds fairly typical of old-style Santenay. Some of them do come around, but they need plenty of time. There was hail in Santenay in July 2005, but my notes say that Jacques Lardire indicated that these vines were not badly affected -- but your drying tannins comment could be an indication of hail damage.
 
originally posted by Claude Kolm:
There was hail in Santenay in July 2005, but my notes say that Jacques Lardire indicated that these vines were not badly affected -- but your drying tannins comment could be an indication of hail damage.
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Thanks for the response. Interesting to hear that there were some weak(er) points in the Great Vintage.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Claude Kolm:
There was hail in Santenay in July 2005, but my notes say that Jacques Lardire indicated that these vines were not badly affected -- but your drying tannins comment could be an indication of hail damage.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the response. Interesting to hear that there were some weak(er) points in the Great Vintage.
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There are many weak points to 2005, just as there are many strong points to so-called off vintages. Anyone who buys a bottle of Burgundy solely because it says 2005 is a fool and a gambler. (1999 was much closer to a vintage where you could get a good bottle, no matter what, by buying the vintage.)
 
The '98 Malte was going strong two years ago. But is Jadot still made in the same style these days? I seem to recall reading that some changes have been made and I've not seen much newer Jadots here.

-O
 
originally posted by Otto Nieminen:
The '98 Malte was going strong two years ago. But is Jadot still made in the same style these days? I seem to recall reading that some changes have been made and I've not seen much newer Jadots here.

-O
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There has been a change of style for the reds at Jadot, in my opinion, although Jacques Lardire denies it. But I would date it from some time in the early to mid-1990s. Before that, the Jadot reds (at least those Jadot fermented) had a cooked, hot fermentation jaminess when young. Today, at least to this taster, they are much fresher and more mineral.
 
Isn't that about the time that Lardire fell under the sway of biodynamie? His seminar at the World of Pinot Noir a few years ago was filled with references to the sorts of things that would sound more familiar had they been espoused by people living in yurts while earning their living raising banana slugs in Santa Cruz.

Jacques' message was strident and way past the evangelical fervor I've seen from most converts to the Demeter way of wine production and it was kind of refreshing. His wines showed well and I was sorry that he had to leave to catch an airplane home before he'd had time to answer questions from the audience.

I don't buy much Burgundy these days but if I were, I'd be inclined to buy Jadot, based purely on how into it Lardire was/

-Eden (I know, wrong reason to lay out that sort of kale for wine, but he was as persuasive as Randall Grahm on the subject)(and don't enquire as to how much Bonny Doon resides in my cellar)
 
At least some of the Jadot estate wines, especially in Pernand I believe, are now in biodynamic production. Lardire's father, who was a farmer (not a vigneron), was biodynamic -- that would have been back 50+/- years ago!
 
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