Antique Apples

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman

Tasting notes soon for:
- Ashmead's Kernel
- Tolman Sweet
- Newtown Pippin
- Pitmaston Pineapple
- Winter Banana
- Doctor Matthews
- Northern Spy
- Hudson's Golden Gem
- Snow (aka Fameuse) Apple
- Baldwin
- Westfield Seek-No-Further
- Arkansas Black
 
originally posted by MarkS:
- Arkansas Black

Not the other way 'round?
Not to my knowledge. That's the way the name came from the orchard; many online have it the same.

A guy at the farmer's market, some years ago, had an apple named Black Twig (characterized by him as "hard as cement, tastes like grass"). Could you be thinking of that one?
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by MarkS:
- Arkansas Black

Not the other way 'round?
Not to my knowledge. That's the way the name came from the orchard; many online have it the same.

A guy at the farmer's market, some years ago, had an apple named Black Twig (characterized by him as "hard as cement, tastes like grass"). Could you be thinking of that one?

Well, in western VA they were calling them Black Arkansas, so maybe that's a regional variation. One of my favorite apples, but they don't grow around here (but we have the benefit of apples that get hit with a Real cold snap that just can't be duplicated in many growing areas).
 
originally posted by Scott Kraft:
Define antique.
Generally speaking, anything over 75 years old.

For apples, it also seems to mean 'not generally available' with a bit of 'recorded in the 17th-19th C'.

A really whopping list is here.
 
Love me some ashmeads kernal. And Hudsons Golden Gem...thats an odd one. A local orchard has a couple trees and sends a couple hundred pounds to the local coop every year. Weirdest apple I've tried...more like a pear I think.
 
originally posted by Brian C:
Love me some ashmeads kernal. And Hudsons Golden Gem...thats an odd one. A local orchard has a couple trees and sends a couple hundred pounds to the local coop every year. Weirdest apple I've tried...more like a pear I think.

Flip Golden Gems upside down and they even look like pears. Their flavor can be recognized in even pretty small percentage contributions to a cider.

Westfield Seek-No-Further may be my favorite name for an apple. I think the whole heirloom/antique nomenclature boils down to, "you won't find these in the supermarket anymore."
 
originally posted by Ken Schramm:
originally posted by Brian C:
Love me some ashmeads kernal. And Hudsons Golden Gem...thats an odd one. A local orchard has a couple trees and sends a couple hundred pounds to the local coop every year. Weirdest apple I've tried...more like a pear I think.

Flip Golden Gems upside down and they even look like pears. Their flavor can be recognized in even pretty small percentage contributions to a cider.

Westfield Seek-No-Further may be my favorite name for an apple. I think the whole heirloom/antique nomenclature boils down to, "you won't find these in the supermarket anymore."

Had an Arkansas Black brought back from a supermarket in NoCal today that just blew anything I've had this year out of the water. Theres a coop out in Tonasket, WA that is trying to commercially market heirloom apples round here. At $4.98/lb its a tough sell, but their cox's orange pippins sure were tempting amidst a sea of Galas, Fugis, and Pink Ladys.
 
Ah, nostalgia. I was perusing the closeout bin at Sonoma Antique Apple Nursery in the late spring of '91, much as one would dumpster dive for day-old bagels.

Despite my questionable appearance,
50553_2204908968_3801_n.jpg
.. I managed to relieve them (free of charge) of many of their unwanted and forsaken, buds already bursting and moist earth still far away.

Wintertime poison oak removal notwithstanding, I managed to see most of these Arkansas Blacks, Black Twig, Cortland, Cox's Orange Pippin, Golden Russet, Gravenstein, Hudson's, Northern Spy, and Stayman Winesaps safely into well-mulched terrestrial homes. Until these fuckers came along.

thumbnail.large.1.1280256949.local-visiting-deer.jpg
I've not been back to that forlorn southwest corner of coastal Mendocino county in many years, but I fear that not many survive.
 
originally posted by Brian C:
Had an Arkansas Black brought back from a supermarket in NoCal today that just blew anything I've had this year out of the water. Theres a coop out in Tonasket, WA that is trying to commercially market heirloom apples round here. At $4.98/lb its a tough sell, but their cox's orange pippins sure were tempting amidst a sea of Galas, Fugis, and Pink Ladys.

So far (9 years) my Ark Black graft has never given up an apple. Had what I thought was a bunch after petal drop once and every damn one fell off in the June drop. Some people rave about them, and others are neutral. I don't know if it's timing or location or what. Still waiting to learn what the fuss is about.

In an ironic twist, there a place called AppleSchram about 90 minutes away where I might be able to get them, but I'm a lazy SOB.

originally posted by slaton:
Until these fuckers came along.

thumbnail.large.1.1280256949.local-visiting-deer.jpg

The drag about not having time to hunt this year is that my urge to terminate with extreme prejudice is at an all time high. They leave Jean's flowers alone and ravage every fruit-bearing plant I grow. One walked right by my daughter while she was sitting on the front porch last Saturday night. I have become Farmer McGregor. Kill them all (Read in your best Darth Vader voice).
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Tasting notes soon...
There were four of us at the tasting, which means the equivalent of 3 apples each. So, to make it a dinner we added some bread (French sour tourte), crackers, a few cheeses (herbed chevre, emmentaler, brie) and a bit of meat (truffle pate, sliced prosciutto, peppered salami).

I presented the apples in the order that the orchard packed them:

Ashmead's Kernel - A fine apple with which to begin. Russeted all over, tingly acidity when bitten, texture neither very hard nor very soft (and texture will turn out to be very important to this crowd), but not strongly flavored. Generally well-liked by the group. If I were presented a basket of mixed apples I might choose this.

Tolman Sweet - Supposedly a yellow apple but our specimen was green. The texture was soft, like a McIntosh. One person called it "sandy". Very perfumed and floral flesh with a hint of lavendar.

Newtown Pippin - This apple snaps when you bite it, which makes it very popular hereabouts. Vivid apple flavor. It's known as the 18th C's answer to the Granny Smith, and it's the group's AOTN.

Pitmaston Pineapple - Tiny russeted thing. The orchard actually sent three pieces because they fit in the slot in the box meant for one normal-size apple. I can see why someone thought it reminded him of pineapple; there is some non-apple-y sweet flavor in there but, really, it's not very distinct. The flesh was soft, too. We all agreed that it would be really cool to find and eat these while on a hike but wouldn't pick them from my theoretical mixed basket.

Winter Banana - Another apple with a hint of some other fruit in its flavor profile. Our specimen was pretty bland.

Doctor Matthews - Softest apple yet. Pleasant enough but definitely not exciting.

Northern Spy - Much better apple than the Dr. Matthews. It has more texture and more flavor. Several of us remember buying these as children.

Hudson's Golden Gem - This is comparable to a bosc pear in texture, crispness, sweetness, and flavor.

Snow (aka Fameuse) Apple - Indeed, the flesh is brilliantly white with an herbal aroma wafting up from the plate. My closest match is tarragon but if you told me sage or dried basil that could pass muster. A little soft but interesting.

Baldwin - Oh, I know this is a semi-standard variety and supposed to be good but this one merits no more than "yup, that's an apple".

Westfield Seek-No-Further - Ya gotta love those old-fashioned names. Whoever named this one was pretty confident that he had a winner. We didn't agree so much. Huge and shiny red. Good flavor but, with the edge well off our hunger, it was evident that this apple lacked good acidity and lacked good crunch.

Arkansas Black - OK, here's where all the crunch went. I had to push hard with the knife, and you could hear the snap whenever someone bit into a piece. Not quite as hard as a raw potato. The skin is, indeed, really dark. It didn't have much flavor but I will give it credit for not being overly sweet.

We did not do a formal vote but it was clear that the first three apples were preferred over the others, and that the second three apples were less desirable than the others.

Of course, we served cider with the meal:

Etienne Dupont 2009 Cidre Bouche Brut de Normandie, organic, unpasteurized, unfiltered, 5% - Instantly recognizable, this is the uncompromisingly dry, horsey-smelling cider that the French always make. An acquired taste.

Crispin "Landsdowne" Artisanal Reserve, made with stout yeasts and molasses, unfiltered, 6.9% - A godawful over-sweetened beery mess. One sip was more than enough. DNPIM.

Aspall English Demi-Sec Draft Cider, 6.8% - Passable. Sweet. Kinda flat, though.

Martinelli's Gold Medal Sparkling Cider, no alcohol - Apple juice with bubbles, but really good apple juice.
 
originally posted by Ken Schramm:

The drag about not having time to hunt this year is that my urge to terminate with extreme prejudice is at an all time high. They leave Jean's flowers alone and ravage every fruit-bearing plant I grow. One walked right by my daughter while she was sitting on the front porch last Saturday night. I have become Farmer McGregor. Kill them all (Read in your best Darth Vader voice).

Ken,

I also had problems with deer on my fruit trees and even in the garden-I read that a tree farm in C Mo had tried everything and finally found that putting Irish Springs soap on the trees was the only deer solution. I have been using it for the past 4 yrs on my fruit trees and have had no deer scrapes. I just rub the soap on the trunk. I am away from the farm from Nov-Apr and not able to redo the soaping-so it seems to have a long half life. The neighbor shot a 10 pointer with a bow last week-so that should also help keep the scraping down. It scored 168-whatever that means-and field dressed at 215 lbs-so pretty big.

mark
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Tasting notes soon...
There were four of us at the tasting, which means the equivalent of 3 apples each. So, to make it a dinner we added some bread (French sour tourte), crackers, a few cheeses (herbed chevre, emmentaler, brie) and a bit of meat (truffle pate, sliced prosciutto, peppered salami).

I presented the apples in the order that the orchard packed them:

Ashmead's Kernel - A fine apple with which to begin. Russeted all over, tingly acidity when bitten, texture neither very hard nor very soft (and texture will turn out to be very important to this crowd), but not strongly flavored. Generally well-liked by the group. If I were presented a basket of mixed apples I might choose this.

Tolman Sweet - Supposedly a yellow apple but our specimen was green. The texture was soft, like a McIntosh. One person called it "sandy". Very perfumed and floral flesh with a hint of lavendar.

Newtown Pippin - This apple snaps when you bite it, which makes it very popular hereabouts. Vivid apple flavor. It's known as the 18th C's answer to the Granny Smith, and it's the group's AOTN.

Pitmaston Pineapple - Tiny russeted thing. The orchard actually sent three pieces because they fit in the slot in the box meant for one normal-size apple. I can see why someone thought it reminded him of pineapple; there is some non-apple-y sweet flavor in there but, really, it's not very distinct. The flesh was soft, too. We all agreed that it would be really cool to find and eat these while on a hike but wouldn't pick them from my theoretical mixed basket.

Winter Banana - Another apple with a hint of some other fruit in its flavor profile. Our specimen was pretty bland.

Doctor Matthews - Softest apple yet. Pleasant enough but definitely not exciting.

Northern Spy - Much better apple than the Dr. Matthews. It has more texture and more flavor. Several of us remember buying these as children.

Hudson's Golden Gem - This is comparable to a bosc pear in texture, crispness, sweetness, and flavor.

Snow (aka Fameuse) Apple - Indeed, the flesh is brilliantly white with an herbal aroma wafting up from the plate. My closest match is tarragon but if you told me sage or dried basil that could pass muster. A little soft but interesting.

Baldwin - Oh, I know this is a semi-standard one and supposed to be good but this one merits no more than "yup, that's an apple".

Westfield Seek-No-Further - Ya gotta love those old-fashioned named. Whoever named this one was pretty confident that he had a winner. We didn't agree so much. Huge and shiny red. Good flavor but, with the edge well off our hunger, it was evident that this apple lacked good acidity and lacked good crunch.

Arkansas Black - OK, here's where all the crunch went. I had to push hard with the knife, and you could hear the snap whenever someone bit into a piece. Not quite as hard as a raw potato. The skin is, indeed, really dark. It didn't have much flavor but I will give it credit for not being overly sweet.

We did not do a formal vote but it was clear that the first three apples were preferred over the others, and that the second three apples were less desirable than the others.

Of course, we served cider with the meal:

Etienne Dupont 2009 Cidre Bouche Brut de Normandie, organic, unpasteurized, unfiltered, 5% - Instantly recognizable, this is the uncompromisingly dry, horsey-smelling cider that the French always make. An acquired taste.

Crispin "Landsdowne" Artisanal Reserve, made with stout yeasts and molasses, unfiltered, 6.9% - A godawful over-sweetened beery mess. One sip was more than enough. DNPIM.

Aspall English Demi-Sec Draft Cider, 6.8% - Passable. Sweet. Kinda flat, though.

Martinelli's Gold Medal Sparkling Cider, no alcohol - Apple juice with bubbles, but really good apple juice.

Jeff,

I saw the WSJ article on antique apples and considered putting in some-but your tasting doesn't sound like I need to rush out and order any. Thanks for the impressions.

mark
 
Well, I really can't defend this particular sample. None of these apples were life-changing. But that doesn't mean that others aren't.
 
Jeff, thanks so much for this great writeup. I am an apple enthusiast (though a complete tyro), and your notes are fascinating.

I fully agree about texture; crunchiness is next to godliness. Mealy or soft apples make me cringe, even if the taste is pleasant.

For me, a good apple taste has a great kick of acidity.

I love that you drank cider with them. And (forgive the morbid humor) it reminds me of when mad cow disease broke out in France a decade or so ago and there was a huge outcry about the fact that chickens and salmon were made to eat "flour" that was in fact reprocessed remains of chickens, etc. Unwittingly cannibal.
 
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