Terry Theise and yeasts

Why should one inoculate if not needed?
That's the good question for natural wine people.
I have been fermenting native for 12 vintages now and had a very few problems : maybe 3 or 4 wines out of 200? And usually spring brings the solution.
What I can say is that people who inoculate in Rhone and Maconnais don't need to do it if the purpose is to ferment sugar into alcohol.
I don't know for mosel rieslings.

According to the great tradition, SO2 before fermentation is mostly used to avoid bad yeasts (brett...), to slow down lactic and acetic bacterias, and to protect must against oxidation.
I hardly understand why, but these are the main arguments.
Cleaning the place for inoculate seems to be secondary since most of the cultivated yeasts have a killer factor.
Oswaldo, there are tons of splendid terroir wines (burgundy and mosel come to mind) that are inoculated and tons of terrible carbonic fruit salad that express terroir as beautifully as Yellow Tail and that are native fermented.

My point is aesthetic : again why doing something totally useless?
Simplicity is so nice!
 
originally posted by Brzme:

My point is aesthetic : again why doing something totally useless?
Simplicity is so nice!

While I agree with your sentiment, I will say that one with 12 vintages behind him speaks from experience. I, for one, do not have that kind of history to make me so confident.
Best, Jim
 
Theoretically, I would think, it would have to be the case that ambient yeast differs with terroir and thus is an element of terroir distinction in wines. The reason is simple. Any isolated population will differ genetically, to some extent, from other populations from which it is isolated. From this it follows that ambient yeast will contribute elements such that even flavor neutral, commmercial yeast (if there is such a thing; as a breadbaker, I doubt it, by not having those flavors, will change the expression in terroir in a wine.

But of course, ambient yeast is only one part of terroir expression and there may be lots of other elements that come through in inoculated wine, so that, from the criterion by which one determines an overall judgment of liking the wine or not, an inoculated wine might be a very good wine.

Further, lots of ambient things--brett for instance--are undesireable so it is at least theoretically possible that a given ambient yeast would ruin a wine (even if expressing the place of origin of that yeast)and it would obviously be better to avoid allowing such a yeast to ferment one's wine.

These two objections mean one can't be doctrinaire about, say, thinking one might never like an inoculated wine. They don't mean that, as a rule of thumb, as opposed to an absolute principle, it isn't probably better not to inoculate than to inoculate.
 
]originally posted by Florida Jim:


While I agree with your sentiment, I will say that one with 12 vintages behind him speaks from experience. I, for one, do not have that kind of history to make me so confident.
Best, Jim

Jim,

I am speaking for myself and my wines.
How could I know if you have to inoculate or not, unless you get your grapes in the same places than me?[/quote]
 
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
Theoretically, I would think, it would have to be the case that ambient yeast differs with terroir and thus is an element of terroir distinction in wines. The reason is simple. Any isolated population will differ genetically, to some extent, from other populations from which it is isolated. From this it follows that ambient yeast will contribute elements such that even flavor neutral, commmercial yeast (if there is such a thing; as a breadbaker, I doubt it, by not having those flavors, will change the expression in terroir in a wine.

This has little to do with theory.
This is mostly intellectual speculation.

As SFJoe pointed out many times we will know for sure as soon as DNA scanning of yeasts will be widely available and cheap, so many hundred or thousand of native yeasts growers and innoculators have done the tests over several vintages and terroirs.

BTW I share your feeling but really think that it is pure speculation at this stage.
 
originally posted by Florida Jim:
In a custom crush facility with over 18 different clients, I have seen a "house" yeast develop that is so strong that, even if cold soaks are treated with 20 ppm SO2 and kept in a cold room, the must will start fermenting after several days.
This year, I saw a tank in cold soak that was laced with dry-ice twice daily and the glycol jacket set at 50 degrees go off on the third day. (One assumes that the jacket had effect only so far into the tank.)

David's point about winery yeasts is not to be taken lightly.
Sometimes, fermenting native is not anything even remotely native.
Best, Jim

If I understand your last sentence can I assume you are referring to a winemaking situation where commercial yeasts used in the past have become a powerful or even dominant presence in the winery [a house yeast] and musts no longer require inoculation - and therefore 'fermenting native' might be more accurately described as 'relying on spontaneous fermentation from a "house" yeast of commercial origin' rather than 'anything necessarily or remotely native'.

There are also those who appear to believe that the main fermentation yeast S.cerevisiae does not [ever]'come in on the grapes' [incidentally they apply the same argument to Brettanomyces.bruxellensis] because these yeasts have not previously been observed on grapes - despite the fact they have been observed in the vineyard and more recently with new sample enhancing techniques have also been shown to be present on grapes [in tiny population sizes relative to the other much more easily observed yeasts and bacteria].

The traditional winery-based yeast position and rejection of the vineyard as a source of S.cerevisiae [and B.bruxellensis] has been, at least partially, based on the lack of evidence that Saccharomyces.cerevisiae exists on grapes as well as the clear demonstration of their presence in wineries. However now that they have been shown to be in vineyards and even on grapes the continuing argument against vineyard based versions as viable fermentation agents has shifted to its small population relative to all the other microbials that are present in much larger quantities.

The argument goes that musts are either inoculated by the winemaker with prepared yeasts or are spontaneously started by winery-resident yeasts and the idea that S.cerevisiae and B.bruxellensis have any origin other than the winery as far as spontaneous fermentations are concerned is still rejected by many. However there are at least some famous winemakers who appear to believe that their natural ferments have an original genesis in their vineyards.
In addition I have never had an answer to the question [except for commercial preparations] of where the winery-resident Saccharomyces or Brett originally comes from if not from the vineyards that feed the winery.

The rejection of the vineyard underpins a traditional objection to the idea of the yeast in a spontaneous fermentation being in any sense component of terroir.

However if winery-resident yeasts [or, even more radically, yeasts brought in on the grapes in the ferment itself] could be shown to have derived originally from the vineyards feeding the winery the idea of terroir becomes more plausible.

Other non-Saccharomyces yeasts that are present in the vineyard can certainly start a fermentation that hasn't been sterilised by SO2 and will gradually die off [at different levels] as alcohol levels rise and S.cerevisiae begins to dominate and alcohol levels continue to rise until [depending on sugar levels] it too can begin to wobble - at which time, without appropriate dosing with SO2, any Brett present [from wherever] might have its wicked way. Brett apart those 'early' yeasts presumably play some part, possibly major, in how the wine ultimately presents.

A recent study by Mat Goddard and his team at the Kumeu River winery in New Zealand appears to show that S.cerevisiae can have a local identity removed from commercial/international versions and that study also concluded/hypothesised that the yeasts in the ferment had indeed come in on the grapes in the ferment not least because they had extensively sampled the winery before the study and found no such yeasts present.

This study has been used by Dr. Jamie Goode in a recent article in the World of Fine Wine to again raise the issue of terroir in connection with spontaneous wild yeast fermentations although a lot of research remains to be done before these ideas can be supported more convincingly.
It would be interesting to know how many of the worlds great winemakers utilise wild local yeast ferments and how and from where these yeasts come to the fermentation and what differences these provide in their wines.

originally posted by SFJoe:
I'm trying to find a recent article from Science or Nature on what yeasts were present in a NZ fermentation. Did we not discuss here?

If you are referring to Mat Goddard's Kumeu River research and Jamie Goode's further related article Goddard's piece is http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1462-2920.2009.02035.x/full
 
Eric, there are indeed tons of splendid wines that are innoculated (we run into them every now and then...), and they may be partially terroir wines (because yeasts, of course, are only one of many components of terroir), but my (semantic) position is that they can only be fully terroir wines if the yeasts are ambient, or at least come from the same terroir (in addition to the other factors that go into terroir expression). We can call these splendid wines that are innoculated with non-native yeasts "splendid wines" (which is all most people want anyway) and even agree that they may partially reflect their terroirs, but my personal opinion is that we should reserve the term "terroir wines," be they terrible or wonderful, or even stillborn, for those that contain nothing (not even oak) from anywhere else. It wouldn't be about deliciousness, but merely classificatory (though one may attribute an ethical dimension).
 
originally posted by nigel groundwater:

However if winery-resident yeasts [or, even more radically, yeasts brought in on the grapes in the ferment itself] could be shown to have derived originally from the vineyards feeding the winery the idea of terroir becomes more plausible.

However, in the case I site, the grapes come from four different counties, a myriad number of vineyards, are of many different varieties and many people in the winery use commercial yeasts which can ferment at extraordinary speeds and alcohol levels - and many of these are identified as 'killers' by their manufacturers.
Hence, the house strain where I work is more likely the most potent of the Sacc. yeasts used in the facility.

An un-inoculated pinot noir that goes dry in three days when starting at 25 brix and sitting in the cold room is, I think, unlikely to be 'native' by any stretch of that definition.
Unless the 'natives' are restless . . .
Best, Jim
 
cannibal_xlarge.gif
 
Fermentation that efficient blows my mind.

I have far more experience fermenting beer (several hundred gallons at this point) than fermenting wine (none) but even when over pitching for a 5 gallon batch of normal strength OG = 1.048 wort, 12 brix (onto a yeast cake--leftover yeast from a previous same-sized batch) and it will take 5 days at normal fermentation temps to ferment to 1.010 which is more or less dry. (There's a lot more unfermentables in wort/beer than in wine.) And that's hitting it with a crapton of recently active yeast.

It blows my mind that uninoculated wine could ferment that fast. I can't believe there's enough potentially active yeast either on the grapes or in the equipment, floating in the air, etc. to ferment that much sugar at that temperature that quickly. I'm not disagreeing with you, Jim, or anything of the sort, I'm just saying "Wow."

Cheers,

Kevin
 
Gee Joe, they don't look restless at all.
Perhaps not civilized but calm and content.
(BTW, it sort of looks like she's for dinner.)
Best, Jim
 
originally posted by Kevin Roberts:
Fermentation that efficient blows my mind.

I have far more experience fermenting beer (several hundred gallons at this point) than fermenting wine (none) but even when over pitching for a 5 gallon batch of normal strength OG = 1.048 wort, 12 brix (onto a yeast cake--leftover yeast from a previous same-sized batch) and it will take 5 days at normal fermentation temps to ferment to 1.010 which is more or less dry. (There's a lot more unfermentables in wort/beer than in wine.) And that's hitting it with a crapton of recently active yeast.

It blows my mind that uninoculated wine could ferment that fast. I can't believe there's enough potentially active yeast either on the grapes or in the equipment, floating in the air, etc. to ferment that much sugar at that temperature that quickly. I'm not disagreeing with you, Jim, or anything of the sort, I'm just saying "Wow."

Cheers,

Kevin

One example : My 2010 Macon Bussires went from 1092 to 993 (1010 is far from dry) within 72 hours without any inoculation!
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
Cultivated yeasts will be highly selected by their cultivation medium. The thing about a diverse population of yeasts (available only by using natives) is that you get various odd yeasts that tolerate high sugar/low alcohol environments early in the fermentation, and different ones that tolerate moderate alcohol/moderate sugar, and etc. A succession of dominant or contributing populations. You won't get that from any cloned (laboratory cultivation usually involves cloning) yeast.

What about from pied de cuve? or whatthefuckever it's called.
 
originally posted by Brzme:
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
Theoretically, I would think, it would have to be the case that ambient yeast differs with terroir and thus is an element of terroir distinction in wines. The reason is simple. Any isolated population will differ genetically, to some extent, from other populations from which it is isolated. From this it follows that ambient yeast will contribute elements such that even flavor neutral, commmercial yeast (if there is such a thing; as a breadbaker, I doubt it, by not having those flavors, will change the expression in terroir in a wine.

This has little to do with theory.
This is mostly intellectual speculation.

As SFJoe pointed out many times we will know for sure as soon as DNA scanning of yeasts will be widely available and cheap, so many hundred or thousand of native yeasts growers and innoculators have done the tests over several vintages and terroirs.

BTW I share your feeling but really think that it is pure speculation at this stage.

It's already cheap. Relatively.
 
Mostly sucks. I was hoodwinked, bamboozled. Plymouth rock landed on me.

They can be beautiful when young, but age into meh.

Luckily, (and thanks to Eric's endless blabbering) I learned and sold most of mine off.

Thiese is totally doctrinaire about sugar in riesling. The wines of Lauer should put QED to that, biaaaatttchh.

Or, whatever.

Osawaldo, many Barolo producers use an isaolate from Barolo, even particular to their town. Is this native enough for you?
 
98 norheimer kirschheck spaetlese totally singing last week

but i didn't buy yours, so who knows
 
originally posted by Claude Kolm:
originally posted by fatboy:

fb.
So can you distinguish the wines from Haart (no "d") and Dnnhoff that were made with inoculated yeasts from those that weren't? If, not, doesn't that disprove your thought?

I guess that could be very difficult unless one knew exactly what to look for.

I can offer a fairly dramatic example, from a visit to Emrich-Schonleber to taste the 07s.

Two Sptlesen, Monzinger Frhlingspltzchen (innoculated) and Monzinger Halenberg (not). I am pretty sure the former was yeasted in search of a precise, somewhat cool style. Wonderful wine, but the Halenberg was a stunner, best wine in the cellar, mostly due to complexity. Green, yellow, golden, orange, red fruits, you name it. Perhaps it would have been over the top for 1 out of 50 people. Deal with it. I thought it was sufficiently light on its feet and not too sweet, given the flavour impact.
 
originally posted by VLM:
Osawaldo, many Barolo producers use an isaolate from Barolo, even particular to their town. Is this native enough for you?

Yes, many use the BRL yeast developed at the Alba Enology Institute. That would be less "native" than Roagna's practice of innoculating with yeasts from the same vineyard. And Roagna, in turn, would be less native than spontaneous ambient.

On the other hand, using the BRL yeast in Barolo would be more native than using it in, say, Barbaresco. And using it in Barbaresco would be more native than using a laboratory yeast that was developed purely for its effect. All the possible yeasting practices lie on a curve that goes from most native (100% ambient with no descendants of cultured yeasts in the air) to least native (100% synthetic after genociding the native population with SO2 or other means).

The useful distinction you made between goal oriented v. process oriented applies here.

The more I reflect, the more I respectfully disagree with Theise. I see yeasting as, arguably, the central issue (when talking process). Not just because alcoholic fermentation is the fundamental transformation in winemaking. Thor points out that using native yeasts involves surrendering the control mentality. That's crucial because it goes to mindset, but the option to surrender control and go native/spontaneous has repercussions throughout the entire process. Native yeasts subsume some kind of organic agriculture, otherwise the yeast population is affected, and subsume minimal cellar work, otherwise you may be going against the spirit of what you've done so far. So, yeasting not only seems crucial in isolation, but is a locus around which all the other processes revolve. In sum, the whole shebang. And fuck Arsenal.
 
originally posted by Brzme:
originally posted by Kevin Roberts:
Fermentation that efficient blows my mind.

I have far more experience fermenting beer (several hundred gallons at this point) than fermenting wine (none) but even when over pitching for a 5 gallon batch of normal strength OG = 1.048 wort, 12 brix (onto a yeast cake--leftover yeast from a previous same-sized batch) and it will take 5 days at normal fermentation temps to ferment to 1.010 which is more or less dry. (There's a lot more unfermentables in wort/beer than in wine.) And that's hitting it with a crapton of recently active yeast.

It blows my mind that uninoculated wine could ferment that fast. I can't believe there's enough potentially active yeast either on the grapes or in the equipment, floating in the air, etc. to ferment that much sugar at that temperature that quickly. I'm not disagreeing with you, Jim, or anything of the sort, I'm just saying "Wow."

Cheers,

Kevin

One example : My 2010 Macon Bussires went from 1092 to 993 (1010 is far from dry) within 72 hours without any inoculation!

I certainly realize the difference in dryness of 1010 and 993 in wine, but in a relatively standard pale ale wort, 1010 is more or less finished, due to the unfermentables of crystal malt and malt in general.

I'm still shocked that pitching 800 billion yeast cells into a normal beer wort (5 gallons, we're not talking huge volumes here) can take longer to ferment than an uninoculated wine of twice strength. I'm really struck by the fermentation differences between wine and beer. I'm still in a state of "Wow."

Is the rate of Saccharomyces cerevisiae fermentation of glucose greater than that of maltose? How much fructose is in a standard (or say your Macon Bussires, Eric) must? Is there an explanation as to why so quick?

This is really interesting to me.
 
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