Oswaldo Costa
Oswaldo Costa
2007 Bera Barbera dAsti Ronco Malo DOC 13.5%
At 17C, enticing aromas of cherry bon-bons, tar and a hint of rubber. Oak free. As expected, acidity is vibrant and there is almost no tannin, with a light CO2 tingle. The fruit is enough to balance the acidity, but there is little texture and body, leading to a somewhat precipitous finish, with a yeasty aftertaste (something I am, I think, overly sensitive to). As it warmed to local room temperature (21/22C), body and texture rose to adequacy and the finish became longer, so best to serve this on the higher side. Didnt live up to CSW Jamies praise; should try another bottle.
2009 LAnglore (Eric Pfifferling) Les Traverses VdF 13.0%
Syrah (70%) and Grenache (30%). Lovely crushed rose petals, strawberry/raspberry and tar, underlined by an appealing savory sweatiness, all those cte dAzur sunbathing pheromones. Good acid/sweet balance, light tannins. Weight just this side of adequate. Medium to short finish, so mouth not quite up the promise of the sniff-all-night nose. But different and interesting.
2009 Barnyard Baudry Chinon Les Granges 12.5%
Cherry and iodine. Chewy tannins, ideal acid/sweet balance, with satisfying body and deliciously tart finish. Straightforward yet tasty, simple yet complete. From 100% gravel (if you want the benefits of limestone, reach for the Domaine bottling).
2001 Alain et Jrome Lenoir Chinon Les Roches 12.5%
Little-known property consisting of 3.5 hectares of old vines planted on clay-limestone in Beaumont-en-Vron. Ultra-old fashioned agriculture, vinification, and, especially, price (see excellent 04/08 piece in wineterroirs.com). On a Sunday night, the winery closed, we stopped by the house and lifted three bottles from M. Lenoirs garage for the princely sum of under twenty bucks, grand total. Smells wild and heady, a delicious blend of leather, mushrooms, sawdust and stemmy ripe cherries. Thick and chewy mouth feel, super rich and dense, ripe and lovely tannins, great texture, comforting and satisfying. Medium to long finish. Terrific stuff, and pocket-boggling QPR.
2008 Tormentas Fulvia Cabernet Franc 13.0%
Made by Brazils premier garagiste, one of the less than a handful that merits attention. Long cork, a sign of care. Nose a bit closed at this point, sour cherry and leather. Initial mouth sensation is pepperiness, possibly from the alcohol, followed by a dark and lovely undertow of fruit. Good acid/sweet balance, pleasing density. Almost imperceptible CO2 frizz. Satisfying on its own, and with food. What I admired most was that it tasted neither French nor International, so it could be a step towards some kind of local identity.
At 17C, enticing aromas of cherry bon-bons, tar and a hint of rubber. Oak free. As expected, acidity is vibrant and there is almost no tannin, with a light CO2 tingle. The fruit is enough to balance the acidity, but there is little texture and body, leading to a somewhat precipitous finish, with a yeasty aftertaste (something I am, I think, overly sensitive to). As it warmed to local room temperature (21/22C), body and texture rose to adequacy and the finish became longer, so best to serve this on the higher side. Didnt live up to CSW Jamies praise; should try another bottle.
2009 LAnglore (Eric Pfifferling) Les Traverses VdF 13.0%
Syrah (70%) and Grenache (30%). Lovely crushed rose petals, strawberry/raspberry and tar, underlined by an appealing savory sweatiness, all those cte dAzur sunbathing pheromones. Good acid/sweet balance, light tannins. Weight just this side of adequate. Medium to short finish, so mouth not quite up the promise of the sniff-all-night nose. But different and interesting.
2009 Barnyard Baudry Chinon Les Granges 12.5%
Cherry and iodine. Chewy tannins, ideal acid/sweet balance, with satisfying body and deliciously tart finish. Straightforward yet tasty, simple yet complete. From 100% gravel (if you want the benefits of limestone, reach for the Domaine bottling).
2001 Alain et Jrome Lenoir Chinon Les Roches 12.5%
Little-known property consisting of 3.5 hectares of old vines planted on clay-limestone in Beaumont-en-Vron. Ultra-old fashioned agriculture, vinification, and, especially, price (see excellent 04/08 piece in wineterroirs.com). On a Sunday night, the winery closed, we stopped by the house and lifted three bottles from M. Lenoirs garage for the princely sum of under twenty bucks, grand total. Smells wild and heady, a delicious blend of leather, mushrooms, sawdust and stemmy ripe cherries. Thick and chewy mouth feel, super rich and dense, ripe and lovely tannins, great texture, comforting and satisfying. Medium to long finish. Terrific stuff, and pocket-boggling QPR.
2008 Tormentas Fulvia Cabernet Franc 13.0%
Made by Brazils premier garagiste, one of the less than a handful that merits attention. Long cork, a sign of care. Nose a bit closed at this point, sour cherry and leather. Initial mouth sensation is pepperiness, possibly from the alcohol, followed by a dark and lovely undertow of fruit. Good acid/sweet balance, pleasing density. Almost imperceptible CO2 frizz. Satisfying on its own, and with food. What I admired most was that it tasted neither French nor International, so it could be a step towards some kind of local identity.