Morgon and debauche

A

Arno Tronche

Arnaud Tronche
We organised a little tasting of Morgon to remember Marcel Lapierre. Roasted chicken and home made oven French fries was on the table. This was a time to enjoy those Morgon, friends with simple rustic food.

2005 Marcel Lapierre Morgon
Lactic nose and palate.Quite peppery with nice strawberry. Floral (violets) and spicy (cinnamon).
Darker fruit than the 2007. Nice to drink.

2007 Marcel Lapierre Morgon Cuve Mathieu
Could not find any info on that cuvee, named after his son.
More energy and acidity than the 2005. Plenty of floral notes on the nose as well as some herbs.
Drinking very well now.

2006 Louis Claude Desvignes Morgon Javernires
Nice balance and structure. Definitely darker than the Lapierre and Foillard.
Some coffee notes. Good grip on the finish.
Closed for the moment and needs time.

2007 Jean Foillard Morgon Cuve Corcelette
From sandy soils. Red fruits, floral notes with strawberry. With air, it's "pinoting". A little darker on the finish. Good structure, soft, elegant and full of energy.
There's also a light steminess. Nice to compare this cuvee with the regular Cote du Py (sandy soil vs schist)

2007 Jean Foillard Morgon Cte du Py
This is superb. A touch of licorice, nice mix of dark/red fruits with strawberry and blackberry. Great floral lift with violet. Pure with a Chambolle like texture. It's borderline Burgundy but still Beaujolais.

2006 Jean Foillard Morgon Cte du Py Cuve 3.14
Very old vines (90 years) from Cote du Py. Raised exactly the same way as the other cuvees: 6 to 8 months in barrels (at least 2 years old) depending on the vintage.
Somehow hard to tell this is gamay but at the same time, this is a wine that is way too young. There's also an impression of new oak which is quite surprising since there's none ! Round, plums and cherry, impressive weight.
This needs serious time !

2009 Jean-Marc Burgaud Morgon Cte du Py Vieilles Vignes
Purple, somewhat jammy on the nose. Grapey, blood orange and a lot of dark fruit. Only fruit and a lot of it right now but at the same time I find it a little angular.
Not sure where this is going.

I enjoyed all the 2007s, drinking beautifully. Not sure they will age for ever though.
 
2009 Jean-Marc Burgaud Morgon Cte du Py Vieilles Vignes I find it a little angular..
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I haven't had the 09 but I would certainly describe previous vintages as 'angular' in comparison to Lapierre and Foillard. Not sure what brings that about, but I'm guessing it's something in the winemaking. (I thought maybe Burgaud didn't do any carbonic but some quick research says it's semi-c).
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
2009 Jean-Marc Burgaud Morgon Cte du Py Vieilles Vignes I find it a little angular..
Click to expand...

I haven't had the 09 but I would certainly describe previous vintages as 'angular' in comparison to Lapierre and Foillard. Not sure what brings that about, but I'm guessing it's something in the winemaking. (I thought maybe Burgaud didn't do any carbonic but some quick research says it's semi-c).
Click to expand...

It was my 1st time trying Burgaud so I can't really comment but it is interesting to know you felt the same way about previous vintages.
 
Structured and tannic were the words I really would have used, but I assumed that is what you meant by angular.

And in a tasting like this with the ethereal lace of Foillard and Lapierre on display, those differences are sure to be even starker than if you had included different Beaujolais producers (e.g. Desvignes).
 
originally posted by Arno Tronche:
2007 Marcel Lapierre Morgon Cuve Mathieu
Could not find any info on that cuvee, named after his son.
Click to expand...

Try here.

Seems to be a Chicago event - there's still plenty of it floating around, including at my favorite local wine bar where they're pouring it by the glass. A bottle last weekend definitely had all the energy you describe.
 
quote; 2006 Jean Foillard Morgon Cte du Py Cuve 3.14
Very old vines (90 years) from Cote du Py. Raised exactly the same way as the other cuvees: 6 to 8 months in barrels (at least 2 years old) depending on the vintage.
Somehow hard to tell this is gamay but at the same time, this is a wine that is way too young. There's also an impression of new oak which is quite surprising since there's none ! Round, plums and cherry, impressive weight.
This needs serious time !

barrels, at least 2 years old, still mark most any wine with oak, in a significant way, and, I think, especially Gamay. Even from old vines. If the barrels aren't huge (more than 1,000 litres), and in use for more than a dozen years--better still 20+--the wine is compromised. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.
 
originally posted by Steve Edmunds:
quote; 2006 Jean Foillard Morgon Cte du Py Cuve 3.14
Very old vines (90 years) from Cote du Py. Raised exactly the same way as the other cuvees: 6 to 8 months in barrels (at least 2 years old) depending on the vintage.
Somehow hard to tell this is gamay but at the same time, this is a wine that is way too young. There's also an impression of new oak which is quite surprising since there's none ! Round, plums and cherry, impressive weight.
This needs serious time !

barrels, at least 2 years old, still mark most any wine with oak, in a significant way, and, I think, especially Gamay. Even from old vines. If the barrels aren't huge (more than 1,000 litres), and in use for more than a dozen years--better still 20+--the wine is compromised. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.
Click to expand...
Steve, have you tried the '06 3.14? It's the kind of compromise I could live with.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
Structured and tannic were the words I really would have used, but I assumed that is what you meant by angular.

And in a tasting like this with the ethereal lace of Foillard and Lapierre on display, those differences are sure to be even starker than if you had included different Beaujolais producers (e.g. Desvignes).
Click to expand...

Burgaud is definitely on the traditionnal side of "natural" Morgon producers along with Chamonard, in my understanding of the Morgon terroir, as I previously pointed out.
No cold carbonic phase here. So less fruit and more structure.
A very traditionnal beaujolaise maceration (semi-c kind of, without intensive temp control) and wines that show much more the rustic side of Morgon terroir than most of the Gang wines, IMHO.

And Arno, don't be affraid it is going right where it should! Like 2001, this is a wine that will be an epitome of Morgon within 4 or 5 years.
I'd ask this question for a lot of the 2009, but definitely not Burgaud's ones.
 
originally posted by Brzme:
originally posted by Rahsaan:
Structured and tannic were the words I really would have used, but I assumed that is what you meant by angular.

And in a tasting like this with the ethereal lace of Foillard and Lapierre on display, those differences are sure to be even starker than if you had included different Beaujolais producers (e.g. Desvignes).
Click to expand...

Burgaud is definitely on the traditionnal side of "natural" Morgon producers along with Chamonard, in my understanding of the Morgon terroir, as I previously pointed out.
No cold carbonic phase here. So less fruit and more structure.
A very traditionnal beaujolaise maceration (semi-c kind of, without intensive temp control) and wines that show much more the rustic side of Morgon terroir than most of the Gang wines, IMHO.

And Arno, don't be affraid it is going right where it should! Like 2001, this is a wine that will be an epitome of Morgon within 4 or 5 years.
I'd ask this question for a lot of the 2009, but definitely not Burgaud's ones.
Click to expand...

Thanks Eric, very valuable information. Being my 1st bottle from Burgaud, I lack the knowledge of how his wines age and based on this bottle at this stage, I found it hard to predict.
I'll make sure to try again in 5 years.
 
originally posted by Steve Edmunds:
quote; 2006 Jean Foillard Morgon Cte du Py Cuve 3.14
Very old vines (90 years) from Cote du Py. Raised exactly the same way as the other cuvees: 6 to 8 months in barrels (at least 2 years old) depending on the vintage.
Somehow hard to tell this is gamay but at the same time, this is a wine that is way too young. There's also an impression of new oak which is quite surprising since there's none ! Round, plums and cherry, impressive weight.
This needs serious time !

barrels, at least 2 years old, still mark most any wine with oak, in a significant way, and, I think, especially Gamay. Even from old vines. If the barrels aren't huge (more than 1,000 litres), and in use for more than a dozen years--better still 20+--the wine is compromised. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.
Click to expand...

Steve, do you think that with a low toasting, a 2 years old barrel can still have a big impact?
I was honestly surprised to get this oak sensation from a Foillard wine but at the same time you can tell it is just a matter of time for the wine to come together.
 
A 2 years old barrel has a HUGE impact especially on gamay!
Our US friends use the word neutral as soon as the barrel is not new. Even my 15 years old barrels are not neutral if your consider the impact on say grenache from a low acid low tannins year like 2006 in the rhone.
 
Our US friends use the word neutral as soon as the barrel is not new. Even my 15 years old barrels are not neutral
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Thank you, thank you, thank you.

The rapidly-diminishing magnum stock in the cellar, not being a parade of phallocentric upmanship like SFJoe's, is replete with Burgaud Morgon from the mid-oughts. I wonder if I'll have the patience to wait them out.

As for the 3,14, it's an excellent New Zealand pinot. Since I really like (good) New Zealand pinot, that's a fun and delicious thing for it to be, but it's New Zealand pinot nonetheless. Really: slip it into a blind tasting sometime. What I used to say just to be provocative made a whole lot of sense in the aftermath.

(Coaddendum: noir, noir. You're welcome, Chris, and you can stop twitching now.)
 
All this pro-Burgaud talk is making me re-evaluate my thoughts on the wines.

Thanks.

(Although I'm probably not going to just start laying them down to age without being convinced that I like them - even if they are more 'terroir-reflective' than the Foillard Favorite. Perhaps I'll have to wait for someone to share their upsmanship. Until then, I have plenty of other stuff to drink).
 
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