ESJ, etc.

Florida Jim

Florida Jim
2009 Broc Cellars, Vine Starr:
13.1% alcohol; a blend of chardonnay, rousanne that had some skin-contact and picpoul; an angular but pleasing attack emphasizes the chardonnay, the mid-palate has some grip as the rousanne kicks in and the finish is a squeeze of lime that shows the lively nature of picpoul. A ladder in the mouth and one that breaks molds and is throughly enjoyable. Wine to have with or without food - but best if given a hour in the decanter and closer to room temp. About $20.

2009 Edmunds St. John, Rocks and Gravel:
13.8% alcohol; 50% syrah, 42% grenache, 8% mourvedre; SAVORY - that is the first, and lasting impression; there is some red fruit here (and more as it opens - boding well for its future) but mostly this is country ham, minerals, iron, marjoram and raw meat. Lots of grip, good cut, fine tannins and, at this point in its life, still a bit closed. But the stuff here is real; it was raised in cement tanks and never saw oak and if there is a better GSM made in this country, I havent tried it. About $24 - the ultimate no brainer.

2008 Edmunds St. John, Porphyry:
13% alcohol, grown on granite/quartz type soils, 100% gamay; slightly muted on the nose and holding some dissolved CO2 - I put this in a decanter and half an hour later it came out of its shell; firm, deep, dark yet still clearly gamay with concentration and a dry, lasting finish. A wine for your cellar or for your decanter to have with food. Less than $17/bottle by the case. Delicious.

2007 Edmunds St. John, Pinot Gris:
13.5% alcohol and about $10 on sale; when it was cold it was pleasant but little more; as it warms the spice (nutmeg, all spice, etc.) comes to the fore, the fruit opens and the texture takes on a fullness. This wine should be served at or above cellar temperature to get the flavors that are there and to find its character - otherwise, its just another $10 white.

N/V Tintero, Grangia:
Made from favorita grapes (related to vermentino?) and about 11.5% alcohol; quite clear in color, dry and spritzy with a sort of lemon grass, white pepper and pear flavor profile - but the sparkling nature of the wine is more prominent on the palate than the flavors. Meant to be refreshing more than character driven, I think, and pretty much pulls it off. From the Piedmont and about $9, retail. Very easy to drink.

Best, Jim
 
Chris Brockway seems to be doing some interesting things these days. I really enjoyed the Carignan (though it definitely tastes as much of carbonic fermentation as of any of the varietal character) and apparently he is releasing a bit of extended skin-contact Roussanne as well. I still feel like he flies under the radar to some extent, but that may be less true on the west coast.
 
originally posted by Saul Mutchnick:
Broc CellarsChris Brockway seems to be doing some interesting things these days. I really enjoyed the Carignan (though it definitely tastes as much of carbonic fermentation as of any of the varietal character) and apparently he is releasing a bit of extended skin-contact Roussanne as well. I still feel like he flies under the radar to some extent, but that may be less true on the west coast.

I had the skin-contact roussanne with Kraft when I was just out in SF. It was good. Not great, but interesting and pleasant.
 
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Saul Mutchnick:
Broc CellarsChris Brockway seems to be doing some interesting things these days. I really enjoyed the Carignan (though it definitely tastes as much of carbonic fermentation as of any of the varietal character) and apparently he is releasing a bit of extended skin-contact Roussanne as well. I still feel like he flies under the radar to some extent, but that may be less true on the west coast.

I had the skin-contact roussanne with Kraft when I was just out in SF. It was good. Not great, but interesting and pleasant.
When I was in NYC last September, I went to a Donkey & Goat tasting at the Blue Ribbon Bar and had a glass of their skin-contact Roussanne 'Stone Crusher' (I believe). I liked it. I thought it was quite well done. In fact, I really would have liked to have gotten a bottle or two, but it seems to have sold out via their website and they aren't available in Chicago. I wonder how different the D&G and Broc versions are from each other, fruit is probably from the same source, no?

And in keeping with the thread topic (I know, go figure), at the same place (different night) I shared a .375 of 1995 ESJ Syrah (didn't have a vineyard designation) with Scott Reiner. Unfortunately, it was at the end of a fairly marathon drinking excursion (which included Fatty Cue and Ten Bells) so I can't remember too much. But, I do remember it being really, really good and definitely being mature and ready to drink. I wish I could just stumble into a wine bar and order a mature ESJ all the time. Isn't that the way it should be?
 
originally posted by lars makie:

And in keeping with the thread topic (I know, go figure), at the same place (different night) I shared a .375 of 1995 ESJ Syrah (didn't have a vineyard designation) with Scott Reiner. Unfortunately, it was at the end of a fairly marathon drinking excursion (which included Fatty Cue and Ten Bells) so I can't remember too much. But, I do remember it being really, really good and definitely being mature and ready to drink. I wish I could just stumble into a wine bar and order a mature ESJ all the time. Isn't that the way it should be?

Coincidentally I opened a 750 of the 1995 ESJ Durell Tuesday night. Lovely wine, the aromatics were particularly enticing. It continued to develop for an hour or two but had faded away by the 2.5 hour mark. I would also call this one mature.
 
I shared a 750ml of the 1995 ESJ Durell with Thor & Theresa (& Salil) early this year. It was developing, but still not close to fully mature. At age 15 for the wine we are likely getting close to that time where single bottle experiences (and provenance) are all that matter.
 
Considering that my other primary source for Durell has an even colder cellar, we're all going to have to live longer.
 
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Saul Mutchnick:
Broc CellarsChris Brockway seems to be doing some interesting things these days. . . . he is releasing a bit of extended skin-contact Roussanne as well.

I had the skin-contact roussanne with Kraft when I was just out in SF. It was good. Not great, but interesting and pleasant.

IIRC, when I spoke to Chris this past Sunday, he mentioned that the roussanne was not on the skins all the way to dry - hence, one would expect somewhat less phenolic impact. I don't know what the regimen is at Donkey and Goat and have not had a chance to try many of their wines lately - which, from all I hear, is my loss.
In general, skin contact whites seem to be making inroads here in CA - or maybe I am just more tuned to them so I notice when someone does one or more.

Best, Jim
 
originally posted by Steve Edmunds:
I'm pretty sure the Roussanne from D&G and from Broc come from different fruit sources.
It's possible, but I just checked both websites. The Broc Cellars site didn't have a skin-contact Roussanne listed, but the 'Vine Starr' white blend listed (that has 25% Roussanne) has the Roussanne coming from the same Elen Ridge vineyard that D&G are getting their Roussanne. But who knows.

I was going to say, is Roussanne the new Chardonnay? How many people are growing Roussanne in CA nowadays?
 
originally posted by Steve Edmunds:
I'm pretty sure the Roussanne from D&G and from Broc come from different fruit sources.

I seem to recall hearing that there was some sort of trade involving Roussanne for Carignan (not sure which party started with what)--so my guess is the vineyard source is the same.
 
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