Oswaldo Costa
Oswaldo Costa
At home, with meals, we tried a few Argentine malbecs. I know I sound like a broken record when I harp on the virtues of the traditional style and decry the excesses of the hegemonic style, but since the latter also takes more than twelve months to make, I give them a chance, occasionally (especially if they are occupying scarce cellar space).
2000 Cavas de Weinert Reserva Malbec 13.5%
100% Malbec. Cherry, plums, leather and tobacco. Excellent acid/sweet balance, fine texture, satisfying body. Simply delicious, and notable for whats not there. I comment to Marcia that it tastes like an ideal not point-driven Bordeaux. She disagrees, saying that "Bordeaux is a Chilean thing," and "this has a bit too much sweetness and jamminess to be Bordeaux" (have I created a monster?).
2002 Cavas de Weinert Gran Vino 14.5%
Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Three years in French oak barrels, so took almost four years to make. Plumbs the depths of plum jam, with herbal notes (its about thyme). Strong alcohol and powerful tannins interfere with the proper detection of acidity, but overall theres a military-industrial complex of confrontational yin forces to, all together, balance the comforting yang of sweetness. Oak is present, but not egregious; pleasure only inhibited by ripeness past the point of no evaporation. Uncomfortably close to the dark side for a Weinert; by 2002, they must have been hearing the call of Mammon.
2003 Achval-Ferrer Finca Mirador Malbec Mendoza 13.5%
One of the most highly celebrated and pointy Argentine malbecs. Ungrafted vines, over 40Y old, aged 13M in new French oak. Elegant, serious blackberry and menthol aromas, with a slightly metallic edge and a touch of epoxy. No oak in the aromas; it's in the taste, but appears well integrated (and the alcohol is civilized). Quite tannic, with a bitter finish that recedes with food. Considerable acidity tingles the sides of the tongue, but tastes somewhat separate. This has way too much class to be an oaky and alcoholic fruit bomb, but its regal manners were more admirable than enjoyable.
2007 Luca (Laura Catena) Pinot Noir Uco Valley 14.5%
From the Adrianna Vineyard, 4,700ft. Decanted for four hours. Straightforward plum aromas, less oak than feared. There's too much alcohol burn and the fruit is jammy. Over ripeness strips away subtlety and reduces varietal expression; no trace of pinosity playing anywhere. I hereby solemnly pledge to never, ever, purchase a pinot noir with more than 13.9% alcohol for as long as I shall live, as dog is my witness.
2000 Cavas de Weinert Reserva Malbec 13.5%
100% Malbec. Cherry, plums, leather and tobacco. Excellent acid/sweet balance, fine texture, satisfying body. Simply delicious, and notable for whats not there. I comment to Marcia that it tastes like an ideal not point-driven Bordeaux. She disagrees, saying that "Bordeaux is a Chilean thing," and "this has a bit too much sweetness and jamminess to be Bordeaux" (have I created a monster?).
2002 Cavas de Weinert Gran Vino 14.5%
Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Three years in French oak barrels, so took almost four years to make. Plumbs the depths of plum jam, with herbal notes (its about thyme). Strong alcohol and powerful tannins interfere with the proper detection of acidity, but overall theres a military-industrial complex of confrontational yin forces to, all together, balance the comforting yang of sweetness. Oak is present, but not egregious; pleasure only inhibited by ripeness past the point of no evaporation. Uncomfortably close to the dark side for a Weinert; by 2002, they must have been hearing the call of Mammon.
2003 Achval-Ferrer Finca Mirador Malbec Mendoza 13.5%
One of the most highly celebrated and pointy Argentine malbecs. Ungrafted vines, over 40Y old, aged 13M in new French oak. Elegant, serious blackberry and menthol aromas, with a slightly metallic edge and a touch of epoxy. No oak in the aromas; it's in the taste, but appears well integrated (and the alcohol is civilized). Quite tannic, with a bitter finish that recedes with food. Considerable acidity tingles the sides of the tongue, but tastes somewhat separate. This has way too much class to be an oaky and alcoholic fruit bomb, but its regal manners were more admirable than enjoyable.
2007 Luca (Laura Catena) Pinot Noir Uco Valley 14.5%
From the Adrianna Vineyard, 4,700ft. Decanted for four hours. Straightforward plum aromas, less oak than feared. There's too much alcohol burn and the fruit is jammy. Over ripeness strips away subtlety and reduces varietal expression; no trace of pinosity playing anywhere. I hereby solemnly pledge to never, ever, purchase a pinot noir with more than 13.9% alcohol for as long as I shall live, as dog is my witness.