TN: Larmandier-Bernier Terre de Vertus (2006)

Yule Kim

Yule Kim
To quote Tony the Tiger: "It's Greeeaaatttt!!!"

On a more serious note, I thought it had tremendous focus, cut, and clarity. "Limpid" was the word that kept crossing my mind as I was drinking it. It definitely seemed to be a mineral-driven wine, but the saline and fruit notes was integrated seamlessly. No component showed up anything else and it felt really pure, refreshing, and weightless in my mouth. The aroma was a little muted, but I would imagine some more time in the cellar would help with that.

I also really liked how this contrasted with a NV Lassaigne Blanc de Blancs I had a while back (which I also loved). This champagne was all elegance and precision while the Lassaigne had much more intensity. Funny what a couple of miles can do to chardonnay.

Does anyone know what it is about Vertus and Montgueux that causes such a contrast? Is it the soil composition, microclimate, exposures? (I know it is probably all of the above, but I would be interested in learning more about both terroir).
 
I really like the level of dosage (none), the minerality you obviously noticed, the texture of the wines (old oak casks?), the balance -- great acidity, brisk, precise, edgy...

I've never had a Vertus from Larmandier-Bernier that I didn't like.

I believe Les Barillers and Les Faucherets are well placed mid-sloped vineyards, but I suspect there are many others here who can elaborate.

Good wine for sure.

-mark
 
originally posted by Yule Kim:
Does anyone know what it is about Vertus and Montgueux that causes such a contrast? Is it the soil composition, microclimate, exposures? (I know it is probably all of the above, but I would be interested in learning more about both terroir).

You should. They are drastically different, and far apart. And make wines in very different styles.

First, though, look into (you can use handy dandy Larmandier-Bernier for this) the difference between Vertus and Cramant, which is much more telling as more close and similar yet with crucial differences in flavor profile.

Then do wacky off-the-beaten-track Chamapagne chardonnays like Montgueux and Villers-Marmery (both different, but for different reasons), or Francis Boulard's Les Rachais way up north.

And look up subsoils and also exposure. It's fun. Champagne is jiving. Or else, it's like a clod of earth, teeming with happy, dancing worms with maracas.
 
originally posted by Sharon Bowman:
happy, dancing worms with maracas.
Those happy, dancing worms are mostly found in the soils of the growers you drink.

Others, maybe not so many.
 
originally posted by Sharon Bowman:
Yes, the others have shreds of blue plastic and batteries and stuff.

The photo of this...the garbage...posted to this forum some time ago...is one of the most memorable and disgusting things I've even seen...of or relating to Champagne.

-mark
 
Thanks Sharon for the advice. I would definitely like to dig deeper into the Cote des Blancs and perhaps Cramant should be my next stop (its helps that LB has their Cramant cuvee). Though I'm looking forward to exploring all of those villages. And I hadn't realized Montgueux was that far away...I probably should pay closer attention to the map's scale next time.

Thanks everyone.

[LB website is great...missed the link about the geology during my first visit to the site but found it this time]
 
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