TN: Mostly tasty wines with Christine's Shabu Shabu

Brad Kane

Brad Kane
The last time I had shabu shabu, it was with my host family in Japan during a college trip in '91 and it was delicious, so when Christine Huang sent out the invite for Taiwanese style shabu shabu at her place last week, I wasn't going to miss it. Truth be told, I try not to miss any dinner invite from Christine because girlfriend can cook!

Paul and Sandy Jouen, Jay Miller and Michel Abood also won the golden ticket to dinner and a fun evening ensued. Needless to say, the shabu shabu was fantastic. Christine laid out an incredible array of tasty bits for us to cook up and by the end of the evening, that broth was one of the tastiest soups/broths Ive ever had!

We had plenty of nice wines to go along with the dinner, though I do think a beer would've been a better match. I didn't try the Champagne that was opened, though, and it seems like it was declared the best match with the shabu shabu.

1998 Mller-Catoir- Riesling Sptlese, Haardter Brgergarten
Jay knows I've always liked this wine and its always nice to check in on his apparently endless supply. I'm a little surprised by the deep gold color. This bottle certainly shows some more advanced characteristics on the nose. There's a lot more petrol showing than a bottle I had just two years ago, there's more of a desiccated apricot character and some intriguing brown spice aromas. Ahhh, but on the palate, the wine is just groovy. It's intense, yet harmonious with lip smacking acidity nicely balancing the sweet dried apricot and pineapple fruit. There's some nice secondary development and a certain creaminess to the wine that's just delightful. Drinking well now, though no hurry here. In fact, I know a bunch of folks that would still consider this too young. A/A-.

1985 Trimbach- Gewrztraminer, Cuve des Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre
Plenty of petrol on the nose, though still showing classic lichee and spice aromas. On the palate, its too old for me. I tend to like Gewrztraminers with some sweetness to them and at this age and in Trimbachs drier style, there's no sweetness left. Mineral and petrol dominate the palate. There's some grapefruit pith that veers a little too bitter and I also find the alcohol to be sticking out too much, which is my real problem with drier Gewrtz's. To my tastes, when you ferment most of the sugar out, I find this wine can be too unbalanced. Jay, on the other hand, loves this wine and the others also seemed to like it more than I did. B.

2001 Trimbach- Riesling, Cuve Frdric Emile
Wow! This is the best showing of this wine to date. Its showing younger and fresher than a number of other bottles I've had, with brilliant pear and citrus fruit that's abundant and rather exuberant. The mineral is there in spades, but what makes this showing so brilliant is the tsunami like persistence across the palate. The wine just seems to grow and grow and then lasts endlessly. Still young, but the integration and balance of this bottle is wonderful. Low A.

1985 Domaine Laennec- Moulin--Vent
Paul threw this in double blind. Well past peak, earthy, no real fruit remaining or tannin structure, but some acidity. Reminded me of an over the hill Rioja minus the American oak. C-.

2009 Tissot- Arbois, Poulsard Vieilles Vignes
What a fun and compelling wine this is. I cant recall ever having a Poulsard as ripe as this, which may explain why I like it so much. Lots of primary and juicy red plum and blackberry fruit with some interesting earthiness and bark. Tannic and a little chunky, its a wine with plenty of personality and just really hard not to like. Low A-.

2009 Breton- Morgon Vieilles Vignes
Whoah! This has to be the cleanest Breton I've ever smelled. Wheres the Brett? On the palate there's sweet fruit with primary fruit with some ripe fruit thrown in. Seriously, at this stage this is a honest to goodness fruit bomb. Thickly textured, but not extracted, these just arrived this month and they definitely need some time to show some more. It's a real pleasure to drink for the sheer fruit, but there are things underneath that I'd like to see and that's a bit difficult right now. A-.

2004 Bellivire- Coteaux du Loir Hommage Louis Derre
I really like Eric & Christine Nicolas, but this wine is dreadful. It doesn't help that I'm not a fan at all of Pinot D'Aunis, but a poor vintage makes this stuff even worse. It literally smells like freshly watered potting soil with menthol and green herbs. "It does smell good," Jay retorts. There's no fruit here. It's all greenness, wet earth and really pissed off acidity. Jay, its all yours. D.

1996 Mller-Catoir- Riesling Eiswein, Mussbacher Eselshaut
Light amber in color with gorgeous aromas of guava, apricot, tropical fruit and mineral. Its certainly sweet, but the sugar is more than buttressed by that stimulatingly vicious 96 razor wire acidity. There is indeed a fine line between pleasure and pain and thankfully, this stays well in the pleasure zone. Lots of tropical flavors here led by passion fruit with a nice warm spice character in the background. The wine continued to reveal different nuances and build with air. Just gorgeous. A.
 
originally posted by Brad Kane:
I didn't try the Champagne that was opened, though, and it seems like it was declared the best match with the shabu shabu.

We call this "entrenched."

2004 Bellivire- Coteaux du Loir Hommage Louis Derre
I really like Eric & Christine Nicolas, but this wine is dreadful. It doesn't help that I'm not a fan at all of Pinot DAunis, but a poor vintage makes this stuff even worse. It literally smells like freshly watered potting soil with menthol and green herbs.

This echoes my reaction to the regular 2004 Rouge-Gorge a couple and a half years ago. It was one of the worst things ever!

How happy I was with future vintages (yes, I gave them a new try, thank goodness).

What happened in 2004?!?
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
Wow, the Derr is the Nicolas' top cuvee, supposedly only made in special years.

Jay, Michel and Paul all liked it. No counting for taste...

Btw, the Champagne I passed on was the NV H. Goutorbe- Brut Ros.
 
originally posted by Sharon Bowman:
originally posted by Brad Kane:
I didn't try the Champagne that was opened, though, and it seems like it was declared the best match with the shabu shabu.

We call this "entrenched."

2004 Bellivière- Coteaux du Loir Hommage á Louis Derre
I really like Eric & Christine Nicolas, but this wine is dreadful. It doesn't help that I'm not a fan at all of Pinot DAunis, but a poor vintage makes this stuff even worse. It literally smells like freshly watered potting soil with menthol and green herbs.

This echoes my reaction to the regular 2004 Rouge-Gorge a couple and a half years ago. It was one of the worst things ever!

How happy I was with future vintages (yes, I gave them a new try, thank goodness).

What happened in 2004?!?

I wasn't a huge fan on release either but a recent bottle of 2004 Rouge Gorge was really nice. All the warring elements had declared peace and a new era of economic prosperity.

The Louis Derre was much showing younger than the Rouge Gorge (unsurprising) but very good. I'd love the chance to try it in a few more years.
 
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