Visit at Schloss Neuweier

Arnt Egil Nordlien

Arnt Egil Nordlien
On September 14th-2010 we visited Weingut Schloss Neuweier in the suburb of Neuweier just outside of Baden-Baden. This estate is one of badens most famous wine-estates with a long tradition of great quality. Especially from the original Mauerberg, which with its high content of basalt provides both a warm climate and a soil with a special minerality. A little less known is the Neuweierer Schlossberg just behind the Schloss. Within the Schlossberg is the parcel that gives the cru Goldenes loch. A riesling of true elegance and depth. In my opinion "Goldenes loch" is Badens best dry Riesling.

Riesling trocken 2009
AP: 509/26/10. 12,5% alc/vol. Very light colour. Flowers, earth on the nose. Light and dry Riesling in the mouth. Flowery and simple. A little on the rustic side. Fine crispness. Good acidity especially for the vintage. Medium length. Fair quality for a standard estate-riesling.

Neuweierer Mauerberg Riesling kabinett trocken 2009
AP: 25/10. Nobler nose here with better minerality and depth. Apples and flowers. Dry and a little fuller in the mouth. Again this shows a finer minerality and a more appley character. Fine acidity and refreshing finish. Good wine and good for the price.

Neuweierer Schlossberg Riesling kabinett trocken alte reben 2009
AP: 04/10. Purer on the nose. Snow-feeling, rain-water. Lots of minerality. Even a little more depth here. Fullbodied in the mouth. More intensity in the fruit. Highly mineral and pure style. Fine acidity and good length. Great little kabinett.

Neuweierer Mauerberg Riesling spätlese trocken 2009
AP: 08/10. Also lots of minerality and rain-water on the nose. Not as intense as the Schlossberg kabinett. Fuller and more concentrated in the mouth with more pronounced ripeness in the fruit. But again a very clear and precise style. Mineral and citrusy. Fine acidity and a little more alcohol on the finish. Very good.

Neuweierer Schlossberg Riesling spätlese trocken alte reben 2009
AP: 05/10. Again the Schlossberg seems clearer and purer to met han the Mauerberg. Very fine nose. Rainwater, minerality. Less ripeness than the Mauerberg. Very pure and elegant Riesling in the mouth. Young fruitiness. Mineral style. Citrus. Better balance than the Mauerberg with finer acidity and showing less of the alcohol on the finish. Great spätlese.

Riesling Mauer-wein grosses gewächs 2009
AP: 29/10. 13,5% alc/vol. This is the grosses gewächs from Mauerberg. The parcel comes from the original Mauerberg, before it got largened by the wine-law in 1971. This original parcel has a unique soil with lots of basalt. The wine shows a little more colour in the glass. In the nose it shows minerality and peach. In the mouth this is an extremely powerful Riesling. Huge concentration and a thick mouthfeel. Almost bitingly mineral and lots of depth. Still the fruit is pretty and not too ripe. Finely tuned with medium acidity and integrated alcohol on the finish. Great wine.

Riesling goldenes loch grosses gewächs 2009
AP: 28/10. 13,5% alc/vol. While the Mauer-wein is the wild beast this is the well-behaved version. On the nose it shows again a very fine minerality. Snow, rainwater. But also some more ripeness and a touch of peach. Fullbodied Riesling in the mouth. Yet far slimmer in style than the Mauer-wein. Lots of minerality. Transparent style. Hints of rainwater, citrus. Great acidity and long mineral taste. Great wine and I clearly prefer this to the also very interesting Mauer-wein.

Pinot noir blanc de noir 2009
AP: 16/10. 12,5% alc/vol. Pinot noir vinified white and still. Very light colour. Mineral and with a light fruitiness. Medium bodied in the mouth. Quite neutral wine. Lightly earthy, peachy with some mienrality. Fine acidity. Quite slim and dry style. Little coarse finish. Fair quality.

Neuweierer Mauerberg Riesling spätlese 2008
AP: 19/09. 10,5% alc/vol. Light yellow colour. Evovled and mineral nose.Fullbodied in the mouth. Some sweetness, but more in the feinherb-style. Slim and mineral wine. Slightly coarse and on the rustic side. Lacking some depth. Fine acidity. Good, but not that exciting.

Neuweierer Mauerberg Riesling auslese 2009
AP: 15/10. 8,5% alc/vol. Light colour. The nose shows botrytis and mint. A bit shy. Thick in the mouth. Fat and concentrated. Young wine. Some botrytis, ripe fruits. Not too deep. Fine acidity and length. A lot better than the spätlese. Very good wine, but not too exciting either.

Neuweierer Mauerberg Riesling beerenauslese 2009
AP: 27/10. 6,5% alc/vol. Light colour. Tropical nose. Hints of botrytis. Rich BA in the mouth. Lots of concentration. Fruity and lightly tropical style. Clear and very fine botrytis-notes. High acids. Refreshing and long finish. Great BA in a very pure style.

Spätburgunder trocken 2005
AP: 32/06. After the whites we tasted through threered spätburgunders. To be honest they were far below the quality of the whites. Old-fashioned in style. Very low in concentrated. Coarse and bitter wines. This first had a red colour. The nose showed red berries, some old wood. Light in the mouth. Old-fashioned style. Low concentration. Old woods in the fruit. Quite rustic. Very bitter finish. Not good.

Neuweierer Heiligenstein spätburgunder kabinett trocken 2008
Red colour. More red berries here on the nose. Rasberries. A little more fruity in the mouth with more concentration. Red berried fruit and old woods. Little oak. Still stemmy and bitter finish. Modest quality.

Neuweierer Heiligenstein spätburgunder spätlese trocken 2008
Red colour. The nose is a little more shy, but shows equal to the kabinett. Red berries and old woods. In the mouth it has a little more power and structure. Red berries and old woods. Simple style. Still bitter on the finish. Modest quality.
 
Riesling Mauer-wein grosses gewächs 2009
AP: 29/10. 13,5% alc/vol. This is the grosses gewächs from Mauerberg. The parcel comes from the original Mauerberg, before it got largened by the wine-law in 1971. This original parcel has a unique soil with lots of basalt. The wine shows a little more colour in the glass. In the nose it shows minerality and peach. In the mouth this is an extremely powerful Riesling. Huge concentration and a thick mouthfeel. Almost bitingly mineral and lots of depth. Still the fruit is pretty and not too ripe. Finely tuned with medium acidity and integrated alcohol on the finish. Great wine.

Riesling goldenes loch grosses gewächs 2009
AP: 28/10. 13,5% alc/vol. While the Mauer-wein is the wild beast this is the well-behaved version. On the nose it shows again a very fine minerality. Snow, rainwater. But also some more ripeness and a touch of peach. Fullbodied Riesling in the mouth. Yet far slimmer in style than the Mauer-wein. Lots of minerality. Transparent style. Hints of rainwater, citrus. Great acidity and long mineral taste. Great wine and I clearly prefer this to the also very interesting Mauer-wein.

Thanks for the notes. They put this producer on my radar and this weekend I had each of these wines. At first I preferred the Mauer-Wein because it was so much more pungent and flavorful, but with air the Goldenes Loch showed its elegance.

Do you have any idea how these wines age? They both seemed so powerful I would be curious to see how they respond to aging. But then again I have limited storage and am always happy to pull corks.
 
Sorry, but the only older wine I have tasted from Schloss Neuweier was a '64 traminer. But that wine had lots of life.

The Mauerberg had a great reputation in earlier days, but it was pretty much destroyed in the wine-law of '71. The original Mauerberg was a 5 hektar monopole of Schloss Neuweier. After '71 more than 40 hektars had the right to the name. While the original parcel was from a block of basalt, the rest of the area has little to no basalt at all. The wine from this original parcel had a great reputation for aging and for giving very powerful rieslings. As Schloss Neuweier seems to be back to making great wines these days I believe the Mauer-wein should be interesting to age. I am pretty sure the Goldenes loch is interesting to age too. I have at least some bottles of the '09 I will cellar for some time.
 
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