Aging things you're not supposed to

S

Sharon Bowman

Sharon Bowman
This weekend I had a minor Corbires from 1999, and damn if the thing wasn't beautifully smooth and unctuous. This got me to thinking that, of course, any reasonable wine drinker would not have kept a minor (I'm talking entry level whatnot from someone no one knows) wine of such an appellation for nearly ten years. Yet it was good! Better than good!

Which reminded me of a superannuated Aligot I had in Issoudun once (don't ask). Beautiful, curious wine.

I am now on the hunt for other stories of this ilk. Anyone else had great overold surprises?
 
I'm guessing this is easier with minor Corbires (and other big-fruited southern wines) than minor northern wines.

Although maybe not.
 
Matt Kramer has always refused to inventory his wine cellar precisely because NOT knowing what's in there leads to some great surprises when a forgotten bottle is uncovered way past its implied drinking window. Following his example, some of my storage lockers remain uninventoried, leading to some fine spelunking sessions where unexpected treasures appear.

-Eden (the ross tend to be the prime offenders in the DOA category)
 
It's an interesting subject.

Couple of weeks ago I talked with a guy who bottomfishes auctions for 70s calcabs, looking for defunct makers and lower-level bottlings.

His hypothesis was if a Mondavi regular cab is listed at a Christies or similar type auction, it probably was consigned as an afterthought along with the collector's high end stuff - yet it was probably as well-stored as the expensive bottles and therefore may be sound enough to chance a bid. And because of the lowly status there would probably be little bidding interest.

As an example he poured a glass of 1978 cab from defunct CA maker Spring Mountain. Unfortunately, it was corked. But at $25/btl and if the remaining bottles are good it could be a deal.

Obviously he's had experience and knows what he's looking for.
 
Opened a '97 Clos Roche Blanche sauvignon blanc last night and it was remarkable. Seamless, I guess is the word, and yet another case of a dry wine turning sweet. No harshness or resin/kerosene just a slight warmth to the bursting red fruit flavors and endless length. A hint of celery seed in the aroma and a hint of hot pepper on the finish. Possibly the first bottle of Touraine sauvignon blanc I've ever tasted that I preferred with age. I think the wine cost $7. Delivered.

In second place is 1998 Canon de Brem, Fronsac purchased on closeout for next to nothing. It's not otherworldly like the C-R-B but it is a wonderful Bordeaux. I tried the 2001 and sadly it was not so good. Had a new label too.

Best,
Kay
 
originally posted by Don Rice:
bottomfishingIt's an interesting subject.

Couple of weeks ago I talked with a guy who bottomfishes auctions for 70s calcabs, looking for defunct makers and lower-level bottlings.
Click to expand...

That's not far removed from my approach to auctions. I stick to "off vintages" and unloved producers/regions. In this way, I've picked up at auction some mid-'80s Cornas from Verset and Clape (two bottles of which found their ways to jeebuses), '70 Ducru and LLC, '75 Latour, '78 Ducru, a whole scad of '88 1er and GC Burgundies (de Montille, Dujac, Lafon, Lafarge, Faiveley, Anne Gros, Groffier), etc. I generally look for mixed lots of relatively unheralded wines and always stay well below retail, a strategy that works over 50% of the time.

Mark Lipton
 
When I started buying wine there were sixties vintages available, and I was able to start a serious cellar in the seventies. Back then French wines were really relatively cheap, and I could afford an occasional DRC Burgundy and really quite a few first growth Bordeaux. Unfortunately my interest in the Bordeaux and Burgundy wines was strong enough that all of the old ones are gone now.

But I was also buying California wines back then, including some interesting cabernets. I bought enough from the 1974 vintage that I think I still have a few. I had a vertical of Louis Martini cabs because of a connection to the family, and those wines have been amazingly durable. When I open my cabs from the 1970's more than often they are in good shape.

The wines that most fit Sharon's category are the California Chardonnays. These get pretty strange after 30 years. If one aggressively tries to keep an open mind, they can be rather tasty, but not if you are expecting something that tastes like Chardonnay. Think in terms of pear juice... Every atom of acidity has completely disappeared, and the wine has darkened to a light caramel shade, but the flavors that remain are actually pretty good. You taste sweetness, and believe it or not, some fruitiness. It just needs a good squeeze of lemon to taste like wine.

Frank
 
originally posted by Frank Deis:
When I started buying wine there were sixties vintages available, and I was able to start a serious cellar in the seventies. Back then French wines were really relatively cheap, and I could afford an occasional DRC Burgundy and really quite a few first growth Bordeaux. Unfortunately my interest in the Bordeaux and Burgundy wines was strong enough that all of the old ones are gone now.
Click to expand...

But I am sure you had a good time drinking them.
 
I think that Don's friend is on the right track: CA cabs from the 70s (and, honestly, earlier) are grossly undervalued vs. their potential quality. Mostly thanks to major critics constantly beating a drum regarding California's discovery of quality wine dated at somewhere around 1990, or 1994, or possibly whatever year the critic started loving California cabernets. The '74 Monte Bello that Larry sourced for Theresa's birthday a few years back was probably overpaid-for on a purely objective level, but still undervalued vs., say, a '70 Bordeaux of similar quality. And yet, it was stunning. (For Rahsaan: I originally wrote "just stunning.")

I agree with Frank, however, that Sharon should fill her cellar with California chardonnay. Semicolon hyphen close-parenthesis cubed.

(Or she could just buy Kalin chardonnay, which is already where she wants it at release.)
 
originally posted by Thor:
The '74 Monte Bello [...] was stunning.
Click to expand...

'74 is my vintage, too, and have had more great experiences than merely good in CA. I've not sprung for [or been treated to] a Monte Bello yet, much less a Heitz Martha's, but many other producers have provided a lovely night.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Frank Deis:
I could afford an occasional DRC Burgundy and really quite a few first growth Bordeaux.
Click to expand...

But I am sure you had a good time drinking them.
Click to expand...

You bet! I can still afford decent Bordeaux but when I have tried to find DRC wines that fit my wallet it has been an exercise in frustration. And they had/have a really special taste, one could almost believe they put in a touch of Cognac or something. I miss that. With Bordeaux there are enough second and third growths that out-perform their status, I don't think I mind missing the 21st Century first growths very much. With Burgundy the high end gets very special. I had a Romanee St Vivant that was probably the single best wine of my life... The "peacock's tail" was very much in evidence. This was not of course a DRC.

F
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
'70 Ducru is an off vintage from an unloved producer??
Click to expand...

To a certain crowd... yes. Didn't you get the memo that there were no good years between '61 and '82?

Sucks to be a contrarian, no?

Mark Lipton
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
'70 Ducru is an off vintage from an unloved producer??
Click to expand...

And one could likewise ask whether '88 Dujac Clos de la Roche, one of the finest red wines I've ever tasted, could be classed as an off vintage from an unloved producer, but the same reasoning applies as in my previous response to you. In a market that treats DRC, Jayer and Roumier as the Second Coming, many quality producers fall through the cracks, or such has been my experience in the secondary market.

Mark Lipton
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top