Arno Tronche
Arnaud Tronche
Last November François Barmès was in Chicago and took some time to explain his philosophy and taste with us a few of his wines. It was really exciting to meet Francois.
A relatively young domain (created in 1985), they converted to biodynamics in the mid nineties. Wines are racked when the moon is descending.
While listening to François you could sense his passion. I did not have time to go through all the wines as I discussed with him for quite some time (he does not speak English). His father was not happy at all when François decided to convert to biodynamics and the magic thing was when he admitted that whenever he does not feel good, he just goes for a walk in his vineyards and resource himself.
All the wines shows a tremendous acidity and droiture.
2008 Pinot Noir Vieilles Vignes Hengst
54 years old vines on marly limestone soil. 24 months in new barrels. The white marl helps to retain some acidity and the southern exposure of the Hengst vineyard gives the ripeness to the pinot. The vines here come from the Angerville Clos des Ducs parcel in Burgundy (Geneviève nanny was related to the Angerville or something like this...can't remember exactly!) . A lot of spices and strawberry. Slightly candied.
2007 Riesling Clos Sand
Young vines (9 years) on granitic soil. Delicious. Rock water with some lime and citrus. Totally dry and an apparent minerality and high acidity. Love it.
2008 Riesling Grand Cru Hengst
30 years old vines and marly limestone soil. Higher yield than the Clos Sand. Shows more ripeness than Clos Sand (southern exposure) with some honey notes. Again those mineral notes and high acidity. The finish is exotic but always fresh and energetic. Dry.
2008 Pinot Gris Rosenberg
21 years old vines. François says that because the PG is usually a round with butter notes, relatively neutral varietal, he uses barrels here for the oxydation of the pinot gris and develop the aromatics. Botrytis is also always present.
Some honey, lime and wood on the nose. Exotic fruits. Rich and sweet with more mango on the palate. Nice floral notes to add complexity. Needs time but already not heavy and digest.
2008 Gewurtztraminer Grand Cru Steingrubler
30 years old vines, marly limestone with granite as well.
Rose Turkish delight and violets. Sweet and a little forward right now. Some orange notes. The wine avoids showing too much of the grape usual exuberance which is a good thing. This is not another varietal caricature.
All in all, very good stuff !
A relatively young domain (created in 1985), they converted to biodynamics in the mid nineties. Wines are racked when the moon is descending.
While listening to François you could sense his passion. I did not have time to go through all the wines as I discussed with him for quite some time (he does not speak English). His father was not happy at all when François decided to convert to biodynamics and the magic thing was when he admitted that whenever he does not feel good, he just goes for a walk in his vineyards and resource himself.
All the wines shows a tremendous acidity and droiture.
2008 Pinot Noir Vieilles Vignes Hengst
54 years old vines on marly limestone soil. 24 months in new barrels. The white marl helps to retain some acidity and the southern exposure of the Hengst vineyard gives the ripeness to the pinot. The vines here come from the Angerville Clos des Ducs parcel in Burgundy (Geneviève nanny was related to the Angerville or something like this...can't remember exactly!) . A lot of spices and strawberry. Slightly candied.
2007 Riesling Clos Sand
Young vines (9 years) on granitic soil. Delicious. Rock water with some lime and citrus. Totally dry and an apparent minerality and high acidity. Love it.
2008 Riesling Grand Cru Hengst
30 years old vines and marly limestone soil. Higher yield than the Clos Sand. Shows more ripeness than Clos Sand (southern exposure) with some honey notes. Again those mineral notes and high acidity. The finish is exotic but always fresh and energetic. Dry.
2008 Pinot Gris Rosenberg
21 years old vines. François says that because the PG is usually a round with butter notes, relatively neutral varietal, he uses barrels here for the oxydation of the pinot gris and develop the aromatics. Botrytis is also always present.
Some honey, lime and wood on the nose. Exotic fruits. Rich and sweet with more mango on the palate. Nice floral notes to add complexity. Needs time but already not heavy and digest.
2008 Gewurtztraminer Grand Cru Steingrubler
30 years old vines, marly limestone with granite as well.
Rose Turkish delight and violets. Sweet and a little forward right now. Some orange notes. The wine avoids showing too much of the grape usual exuberance which is a good thing. This is not another varietal caricature.
All in all, very good stuff !