TN: Jeebus in the Snow (Jan 11, 2011)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
A visit from Oswaldo and Marcia prompted a quiet jeebus in the snow. Dancing attendance on our guests were Kirk Wallace, Dan Tisch, Scott Reiner, Gene Vilensky, Gene's friend Alan, and yours truly.

We began with snacks and champers at Kirk's Greenwich Village abode. We admired the photography collection and sundry other furnishings while sipping:

Cedric Bouchard 2001 (we think) Champagne Brut "La Parcelle" - fruity yet not sweet or viscous, excellent acid, reminds me of a fruit spirit that somehow isn't strongly alcoholic (and has bubbles), my favorite of the champagnes

Bremont NV Champagne "Cuvee Prestige" GC - from Ambonnay so probably not BdB, very slightly oxidized or maybe old wood?, somewhat leesy, maybe even caramelly, not doing it for me

Prevost 2007 Champagne "Les Beguines" - similar to the parcelle but a touch heavier

Ledru 2002 Champagne - zero dosage, a bit lighter but rather like the Bremont, eh

We then sauntered out into the snow and continued our imbibing at Grand Sichuan (7th Ave S). The restaurant was glad to see us, although most of the chairs were up on the tables before we left. It was getting mighty quiet outside, hushed by a blanket of January snow.

Dom. de Montrieux (Emile Heredia) NV Boisson Rouge VdT - sparkling, juicy and sweet, slightly grippy tannins, similar to lambrusco but not so heavy, very good with the spicy beef dish

Chabannes 1998 Cotes de Brouilly - has gone all pinote, yet not really like any Burgundy, interesting effect

Ampeau 1990 Volnay Santenots - corked

Zilliken 1994 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Spatlese Auction - oh, so suave, a handsome younger man in a two-door coupe

Coquelet 2009 Chiroubles VV - deep and dark but I think there's imminent brett in this flavor profile (and I'm leery of that following the ugly Descombes Brouilly at Joe's house)

Swan 2005 Pinot Noir "Great Oak" - pretty, lightweight, good acid, a bit of earth, what more do you want from a pinot?; Oswaldo and I discussed how this wine could also reasonably be defined by what it is not: as a CA pinot, it isn't hot or sweet or viscous or Robitussin or cherry-coke

Foillard 2009 Morgon "Cote du Py" - the real deal, structure for years to come, structure that channels and captures the boysenberry fruit and acid, excellent

Foillard 2009 Morgon "Cuvee Corcelette" - easy-going, slightly candied, others at the table like this better than I do (saying that it's pretty now and good to drink while waiting for the CdP to come around)

W. Schaefer 1995 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett - tangy, wow

Karim Vionnet 2009 Beaujolais-Villages - eh

Karthuserhof 1976 Eitelsbacher Karthuserhofberg Burgberg Auslese - lovely

yes, I know, my notes fall off as my BAC rises...
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

Karim Vionnet 2009 Beaujolais-Villages - eh >

I liked the KV B-V quite a lot, especially with the cumin lamb and the pork w/ cellophane noodles. It was the 3d time i'd had it and it seems consistent. As I recall, Oswaldo found it candied (a bit anyway), but i didn't. But then again, i love the way the Corcelette is drinking now. (And in the no new news category, the Follaird CdP '08, having had samples from about 8 different bottles this eve, is drinking very well. Dark flavors and medium weight and utterly delightful.)
 
how do you guys come up with 95 GH Kab?! Envious.

Bremont Prestige has been outstanding more than once, but, yes, the current version is not quite up to par.
 
I opened up a bottle of Vionnet for the staff training the other day and it was just about perfect. Pointedly shows exactly where it is from, beautiful depth, wonderful hidden spice, imminently gulpable. Cheap. Perhaps not the kind of wine you open next to a 1976 and expect equal profundity from.

If no one else likes Ledru, that's better for me, because I have enough problems with the keeping in stock the quantity that is brought in as it is.
 
originally posted by .sasha:
how do you guys come up with 95 GH Kab?! Envious.

Bremont Prestige has been outstanding more than once, but, yes, the current version is not quite up to par.

Thanks, that's useful. I was looking at the Bremont in Brooklyn given a beautiful bottle Dale Williams brought to a dinner late last year. But that was, I believe, an earlier release.
 
originally posted by Florida Jim:
If the La Purcelle was non-vintage, I think its all 2002.
We went back and forth on this. There was no clear label marking for the vintage but there was a small lot number, something like "L211-001". (I'm sure I don't have the first part right but we guessed that the second part mean '01.)
 
I love the old-fashioned wooden drawer of index cards Levi has in his head, knowing keenly well, on well-typed cards, what has met with pleasure or inexplicable displeasure.

(Still doing those mea culpas for La Stoppa.)
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by Sharon Bowman:
I love the old-fashioned wooden drawer of index cards...
Funny you should say that: we saw that cabinet at Kirk's place.

Kirk is nice enough to let me store it there as my own place is rather small.
 
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