Oswaldo Costa
Oswaldo Costa
After a wonderful month in the US we are back in São Paulo. Four weeks of dining out would have wasted the wine budget, so most evenings we stayed in at our hotel du jour and watched a dvd with some curiosity-inducing wine.
2007 Leon Barral Faugères 13.0%
In NY. Blend of Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache and Carignan. Attractive ripe cherry, iodine, cloves and eucalyptus. Light tannins, appealing texture, excellent acid/sweet balance. Has personality and interest, despite a persistent sweetness in the finish that I find mildly sycophantic. Attributable to the warmer climate? Nice, but didn’t jar me out of homeostasis.
2008 Domaine des Huards (Michel Gendrier) Cheverny Rouge
At the Village Vanguard, watching Joe Lovano. Wine list called it Pinot Noir, but Google shows lots of Gamay in the mix, dominant in some vintages. The Huard website seems to have been shut down; maybe the winery no longer exists. In any case, this had a simple sour cherry aroma, and was too acidic for sipping without food. The VV has none, so it was a mismatch. With food, would have been an acceptable quaffer.
1998 Chateau Le Puy 12.0%
In San Diego. Took a shine to this chateau when I helped man their stand at a biodynamic wine fair in São Paulo recently, so when we saw this at a San Diego wine bar, it was a no brainer. Alas, bit of a disappointment. Barnyard, leather and red berries. Lively acidity, slightly masking nice fruit, resolved but present tannins, commendably low alcohol. Technically, all seemed fine, but it never rose above the sum of the parts. Without a pinch of the uncanny, spawned by a dozen years of molecular inbreeding, this could not rise above the pedestrian.
2009 Kermit Lynch Sunflower Cuvée
In San Diego. A Doug Polaner selection (just kidding). Blend of Marsanne, Rousanne and Viognier. Rich floral aromas with good weight. Slightly more sweet than acid, but perfectly in keeping with the breed standard. Nice. At the same San Diego wine bar, called Wine Steals, Marcia had a glass of 2007 MacRostie Pinot Noir Carneros that I found yucky. Poster boy modern. I mention it only because the bottle was available for $18, and the glass cost $10. When I queried the waitress, she gave a knowing shrug and said “I know...” Well, now I know why the place is called Wine Steals.
2009 Daniel Clotard Sancerre 13.5%
In San Diego. Bought this because it is imported by Kermit Lynch but found it excessively boisterous. Simple, in an intensely grapefruity way. Borderline Kiwi/Chile. Kapow, what happened to subtlety?
2006 Jean Bourdy Côtes du Jura 12.5% (imported by Zev Rovine)
In ABQ. A blend of Poulsard, Pinot Noir and Trousseau, co-fermented to taste like none of them. So, what does it smell like? Cab Franc, of course. Attractive leather and plum aromas make me hopeful, but the mouth showed harshly, brittle acidity overpowering slender fruit. Unsatisfying body, ending with a burnt note that might charitably be called smoky. With food, something like balance ensued, but the harshness re-insinuated itself. It reminded me of a 2004 Tissot Pinot Noir En Barberac picked up despite David Lillie’s misgivings. He said he thought it had spent too much time in wood, and it tasted charred, with an acrid bitterness that triggered a beeline to the sink. Well, this Bourdy spent between three and four years in very old barrels, so maybe they are cousins. Anyway, I didn’t notice a blurb on the bottle that says to open 2-3 hours before serving, so serves me right for popping and pouring. Bloody amateur.
2009 La Biancara di Angelino Maule Rosso Masieri Veneto 12.5%
In ABQ. 100% Merlot. Maybe it’s the altitude in New Mexico, but for the second night in a row, our wine smells like cab franc. Same leather and plums as the previous night’s Bourdy Jura. Plus some mild rubbery reduction that time cures. CO2 sparkle, strong acidity, vibrant fruit. Mild tannins and light bitterness. Becomes quite pleasurable with food, but not enough to make me spring from Naugahyde La-Z-Boy lounger and put out for more.
2008 Azienda Agricola Cos Pithos IGT Sicilia 13.0%
In ABQ. The famous amphorae bottling. Sour cherry and cloves with a steely edge. Fine and appealing tannins, fruity, with appealing body and light bitter finish. Tastes familiar, yet different. Went down well and easy. Reports suggest this bottling shows considerable variation, but ours boogied. And amphorae resonate with adobe architecture.
2009 Henri Milan “sans soufre ajouté” VdF 12.5%
In ABQ. Blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache and Syrah. Dried plums, damp earth and spices. Excellent balance, light to medium tannins. Despite the absence of flaws, and a degree of personality, I found it a bit boring, and had difficulty finishing my share. I really wanted to like this because I’d like to visit Milan when in the area this coming July, but it didn’t make me grab my Davey Crockett hat and Bowie knife to go out foraging for more.
2008 Le Petit Domaine de Gimios Cuvée Rouge de Causse VdT 13.0%
In ABQ. Sans soufre from the Minervois and Demeter certified. Chambers says “field blend of many local varieties from vines averaging 100 years old.” Respect your elders. Attractive cherry, leather, spices and animal scents. Musky, with intense acidity, and savory to the point of salinity. With food, the fruit stands a chance against the razor sharp acidity, but remains embattled. Admiring such low ripeness in a southern French red, and a sucker for impeccable ethics, I ended up digging this, and felt ready to don my Stetson and wield my Colt 45 down Route 66 in search of more.
2008 Le Petit Domaine de Gimios Rouge Fruit VdT 13.0%
In ABQ. Also sans soufre, a blend of Cinsault, Alicante, Grenache, Carignan, Aramon, and Muscat. Sour cherry and herbs, with a metallic edge. Some iodine and damp earth. Tastes similar to the Rouge de Causse, with the same interesting salinity, but the fruit is more straightforward and the acidity more intense. In fact, so intense that it became a turn-off, even with food. Just too aggressive right now. Maybe time will soothe this savage soul.
2007 Leon Barral Faugères 13.0%
In NY. Blend of Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache and Carignan. Attractive ripe cherry, iodine, cloves and eucalyptus. Light tannins, appealing texture, excellent acid/sweet balance. Has personality and interest, despite a persistent sweetness in the finish that I find mildly sycophantic. Attributable to the warmer climate? Nice, but didn’t jar me out of homeostasis.
2008 Domaine des Huards (Michel Gendrier) Cheverny Rouge
At the Village Vanguard, watching Joe Lovano. Wine list called it Pinot Noir, but Google shows lots of Gamay in the mix, dominant in some vintages. The Huard website seems to have been shut down; maybe the winery no longer exists. In any case, this had a simple sour cherry aroma, and was too acidic for sipping without food. The VV has none, so it was a mismatch. With food, would have been an acceptable quaffer.
1998 Chateau Le Puy 12.0%
In San Diego. Took a shine to this chateau when I helped man their stand at a biodynamic wine fair in São Paulo recently, so when we saw this at a San Diego wine bar, it was a no brainer. Alas, bit of a disappointment. Barnyard, leather and red berries. Lively acidity, slightly masking nice fruit, resolved but present tannins, commendably low alcohol. Technically, all seemed fine, but it never rose above the sum of the parts. Without a pinch of the uncanny, spawned by a dozen years of molecular inbreeding, this could not rise above the pedestrian.
2009 Kermit Lynch Sunflower Cuvée
In San Diego. A Doug Polaner selection (just kidding). Blend of Marsanne, Rousanne and Viognier. Rich floral aromas with good weight. Slightly more sweet than acid, but perfectly in keeping with the breed standard. Nice. At the same San Diego wine bar, called Wine Steals, Marcia had a glass of 2007 MacRostie Pinot Noir Carneros that I found yucky. Poster boy modern. I mention it only because the bottle was available for $18, and the glass cost $10. When I queried the waitress, she gave a knowing shrug and said “I know...” Well, now I know why the place is called Wine Steals.
2009 Daniel Clotard Sancerre 13.5%
In San Diego. Bought this because it is imported by Kermit Lynch but found it excessively boisterous. Simple, in an intensely grapefruity way. Borderline Kiwi/Chile. Kapow, what happened to subtlety?
2006 Jean Bourdy Côtes du Jura 12.5% (imported by Zev Rovine)
In ABQ. A blend of Poulsard, Pinot Noir and Trousseau, co-fermented to taste like none of them. So, what does it smell like? Cab Franc, of course. Attractive leather and plum aromas make me hopeful, but the mouth showed harshly, brittle acidity overpowering slender fruit. Unsatisfying body, ending with a burnt note that might charitably be called smoky. With food, something like balance ensued, but the harshness re-insinuated itself. It reminded me of a 2004 Tissot Pinot Noir En Barberac picked up despite David Lillie’s misgivings. He said he thought it had spent too much time in wood, and it tasted charred, with an acrid bitterness that triggered a beeline to the sink. Well, this Bourdy spent between three and four years in very old barrels, so maybe they are cousins. Anyway, I didn’t notice a blurb on the bottle that says to open 2-3 hours before serving, so serves me right for popping and pouring. Bloody amateur.
2009 La Biancara di Angelino Maule Rosso Masieri Veneto 12.5%
In ABQ. 100% Merlot. Maybe it’s the altitude in New Mexico, but for the second night in a row, our wine smells like cab franc. Same leather and plums as the previous night’s Bourdy Jura. Plus some mild rubbery reduction that time cures. CO2 sparkle, strong acidity, vibrant fruit. Mild tannins and light bitterness. Becomes quite pleasurable with food, but not enough to make me spring from Naugahyde La-Z-Boy lounger and put out for more.
2008 Azienda Agricola Cos Pithos IGT Sicilia 13.0%
In ABQ. The famous amphorae bottling. Sour cherry and cloves with a steely edge. Fine and appealing tannins, fruity, with appealing body and light bitter finish. Tastes familiar, yet different. Went down well and easy. Reports suggest this bottling shows considerable variation, but ours boogied. And amphorae resonate with adobe architecture.
2009 Henri Milan “sans soufre ajouté” VdF 12.5%
In ABQ. Blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache and Syrah. Dried plums, damp earth and spices. Excellent balance, light to medium tannins. Despite the absence of flaws, and a degree of personality, I found it a bit boring, and had difficulty finishing my share. I really wanted to like this because I’d like to visit Milan when in the area this coming July, but it didn’t make me grab my Davey Crockett hat and Bowie knife to go out foraging for more.
2008 Le Petit Domaine de Gimios Cuvée Rouge de Causse VdT 13.0%
In ABQ. Sans soufre from the Minervois and Demeter certified. Chambers says “field blend of many local varieties from vines averaging 100 years old.” Respect your elders. Attractive cherry, leather, spices and animal scents. Musky, with intense acidity, and savory to the point of salinity. With food, the fruit stands a chance against the razor sharp acidity, but remains embattled. Admiring such low ripeness in a southern French red, and a sucker for impeccable ethics, I ended up digging this, and felt ready to don my Stetson and wield my Colt 45 down Route 66 in search of more.
2008 Le Petit Domaine de Gimios Rouge Fruit VdT 13.0%
In ABQ. Also sans soufre, a blend of Cinsault, Alicante, Grenache, Carignan, Aramon, and Muscat. Sour cherry and herbs, with a metallic edge. Some iodine and damp earth. Tastes similar to the Rouge de Causse, with the same interesting salinity, but the fruit is more straightforward and the acidity more intense. In fact, so intense that it became a turn-off, even with food. Just too aggressive right now. Maybe time will soothe this savage soul.
