Visit to Weingut Bercher

Arnt Egil Nordlien

Arnt Egil Nordlien
On September 16th 2010 we went to Burkheim to visit Weingut Bercher. They are known as the best producer of the Burkheimer grosses gewächs-einzellagen of Schlossgarten and above all the Feuerberg. In addition to this they make excellent wines from deep and dark volcanic Jechtinger Eichert, the little cooler, but equally interesting Jechtinger Steingrube and the Sasbacher Limburg.

The Berchers make a very precise style reflecting the terroir and where there is oak in use it is in tune with the wines concentration and style. This is especially true when it comes to the whites. All whites were great wines for the prices and the weissburgunders among the best I tasted in the Kaiserstuhl. The kabinetts are exceptionally good buys. For the reds the spätburgunder is typical for the area with the oak a little more apparent - especially on the finish. The grosses gewächs spätburgunder from Feuerberg is their best effort among the reds and a complex and very good wine. Also the Cuvee Limburg VII a blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, lemberger and spätburgunder is interesting. All in all Weingut Bercher turned out to be one of my favorites in Kaiserstuhl.

Burkheimer Schlossgarten muskateller kabinett trocken 2009
Aromatic nose. Not so spicey, more roses and litchi. Light, dry and acidic muskateller in the mouth. Medium concentration. Aromatic flowery fruit. Dry style with a citrusy finish. Refreshing. Nice.

Burkheimer Feuerberg muskateller spätlese Selection 2009
More intense aromatic nose. Sweeter flowers, litchi. Medium bodied in the mouth with some sweetness. Good concentration. Aromatic, sweet and a little riper in style. Flowers and spice. Clear and grapey. Good acidity and length. Good.

Burkheimer Schlossgarten Riesling kabinett trocken 2009
Fruity and slightly earthy nose with a touch of minerality. Aromatic and slightly perfumed. Deeper style. But a little coarse for Riesling. Dry and light Riesling in the mouth. Sweet flowers and lightly mineral wine. Dry with high acidity. Fine and refreshing.

Sasbacher Limburg Riesling spätlese trocken 2009
Sweeter and riper on the nose. Hints of flowers and stone. More power in the mouth. Mineral and prettier fruit. Exciting and better depth. A little ripe, still good acids and length. Good.

Jechtinger Steingrube weissburgunder kabinett trocken 2009
Very mineral and cool weissburgunder. Hints of white fruits, light leafs. Slim, light and mineral in the mouth. Great depth. Volcanic style. Very cool stuff. Still good concentration for a kabinett. Fine acidity and length. Tremendous little kabinett. Great wine for the price.

Burkheimer Feuerberg weissburgunder kabinett trocken 2009
Fruitier style. Hints of white fruits, flowers and leafs. More power in the mouth. Rounder style. More fruitiness, less mineral depth. Good acidity and length. A nice weissburgunder witch lacks a little of the interesting character of the Jechtinger Steingrube. Still very nice kabinett in a pure style.

Sasbacher Limburg weissburgunder spätlese trocken 2009
Riper style. More yellow fruits. Also white fruit-notes and some leafs. Riper, more powerful and more concentration in the mouth. Still it has a quite slim mouthfeel. Fine acidity and crispness. Clear and mineral style. Good length. Very good weissburgunder.

Burkheimer Feuerberg weissburgunder Grosses gewächs 2009
Pretty nose. Hints of white fruits. Sweetness. Minerality. Young and a little closed. Powerful wine in the mouth. Surprisingly closed. Concentrated wine in a fine and clear style. Mineral. Not much oak showing. Quite round and kind wine with medium acidity. Long dry finish. Great weissburgunder with a potensial for aging. Needs 2-3 years.

Jechtinger Eichert grauburgunder kabinett trocken 2009
Yellow fruits. Light leafs. Minerality. Some volcanic elements. Medium bodied in the mouth. Slim grauburgunder. Mineral style with a touch of banana. Fine acidity for the vintage. Fine style. Clear and precise. Very good.

Burkheimer Schlossgarten grauburgunder kabinett trocken 2009
Yellow fruits on the nose. A little sweeter style and riper. Hints of banana. A little more powerful in the mouth. More grauburgunderish fruit. Lightly tropical and yellow fruits. Less minerality. Clear and fine style. Medium acidity. Good.

Burkheimer Feuerberg grauburgunder spätlese trocken 2009
Riper nose. Flowers, yellow fruits. Some flowers. Larger scaled and more concentrated in the mouth. Sweeter fruits. More flowery than fruity notes. Again very clear style. More aromatics. Fine acidity and length. Pretty wine. Could use a little more depth.

Burkheimer Schlossgarten grauburgunder grosses gewächs 2009
Also quite ripe on the nose with hints of banana. More minerality and depth here. Fullbodied in the mouth. Less fatness. Actually quite crisp and balanced grauburgunder. Pretty minerality. Hints of citrus. Crisp, mineral finish. Good acidity and length. Very good.

Burkheimer Feuerberg grauburgunder grosses gewächs 2009
Light oak on the nose. Quite some sweetness. Yellow fruits, banana. Also minerality. Fullbodied wine in the mouth. Some oak. But in the background. Yellow fruits. Fine minerality. Lots of depth. Darker notes. More volcanic. Even quite complex. Round and kind mouthfeel. Good acidity and length. Exciting wine. Great grauburgunder.

Berchers Chardonnay spätlese trocken 2008
Yellow fruits and oak on the nose. Typical broader and richer style of the Chardonnay-grape. Lots of yellow fruits and some oak dominating. Light minerality, but this not show the same interest as the weiss- and grauburgunder. Simpler style. Fine balance with decent acids for this grape. Nice wine.

Spätburgunder qualitätswein trocken 2008
Red colour, lightly violet hues. Young and fruity nose. Some anise and earthy hints. Clean, simpel and fruity spätburgunder in the mouth with fair concentration. Some red berries, very light oak. Some bitternotes - especially on the finish. Fine acidity. Slightly hardness on the finish. Some tannins showing. Fair quality, but forgettable wine.

Burkheimer Feuerberg spätburgunder kabinett trocken 2008
Riper fruits on the nose. Sweeter red fruits. Some flowers. Light minerality. A finer nose here. A little fuller and more concentration in the mouth. Richer style with a prettier fruit. Lightly fine flowery notes and a touch of minerality. Quite simple style. Fine acidity and a prettier finish here. Good.

Jechtinger Eichert spätburgunder spätlese trocken 2007
Even sweeter nose. More ripeness. Sweet red berries. Also a different minerality. More volcanic. Some anise-notes. Fuller in the mouth. More concentration and structure. Different style. Sweet red fruits and volcanic hints. Fine acidity and more tannins in the back. A more serious style. Good.

Spätburgunder qualitätswein trocken barrique 2007
Aged in 2-3 years old barriques. Shows oak on the nose. Sweeter and more vanilla-scented. Red berries. Rounder, kinder and sweeter in the mouth. Rasberries, some fien florality and oak. Lacking a little the minerality. Fine structure with good acidic backbone. The finish is a little hard with oaky tannins.

Burkheimer Feuerberg spätburgunder grosses gewächs 2007
Pretty nose with better balance than the previous wine. Fine hints of rasberries, floral notes and oak. Powerful spätburgunder in the mouth. Some oak upfront. Hints of anise, rasberries. More complex and beter depth. Still young and not fully integrated. Fine acidity. Tannic end, but not too hard. Fine spätburgunder and the best from Bercher. Needs another 5 years. Very good.

Burkheimer Feuerberg spätburgunder grosses gewächs 2008
The nose shows more anise and rasberries. Cooler fruits, but also a slight stemmy feeling. Medium bodied in the mouth. Fine balance with the oak. The fruit is cooler and on the greener side. More transparent. The oak is more carefully done here. Good acidity. A little stemmy greenish finish. Still very good wine.

Burkheimer Feuerberg spätburgunder grosses gewächs spätlese trocken 2004
Shows development. An earthy, complex evolvement. Hints of compost, rasberries, oak, florality. Quite round and kind in the mouth with fine concentration. Evolved fruit. The oak still showing a little. Aged complexity. Fine acidity. The finish shows some oak-tannins. Very good.

Cuvee Limberg VII 2007
Cuvee from Cabernet sauvignon, Merlot, Lemberger and Spätburgunder. Deep red colour. Bell pepper and blackcurrant on the nose. Fullbodied red wine in the mouth. Lots of fruit. Cab-notes dominating. Bell peppers, blackcurrant. Fine fruitiness, but not much depth. Integrated oak. Structured style. Decent acidity. Some tannins in the back. But sweet and resolved. This seems ready to be drunk right now. Good.

Burkheimer Feuerberg spätburgunder weissherbst auslese 2003
Salmon/orange colour. Earthy and fruity nose. Hints of strawberries. Lightly thick auslese in the mouth and quite sweet style. Typical slightly rustic and earthy fruit with little botrytis and some hitns of strawberries. Decent acidity. Fair quality.

Burkheimer Feuerberg spätburgunder weissherbst trockenbeerenauslese 1994
183 g/L residual sugar. 13,3 g/L acidity. Deep brown colour. Caramel, coffee, citrus on the nose. Noticable botrytis. Very powerful styled in the mouth. Coffee, dark chocolate, citrus-notes. Nuts. Loads of concentration and sweetness. Quite rustic in style. Very high and refreshing acidity. Citrusy, raisiny finish. Very long taste. This is as big as they come. Quite typical to the sweet spätburgunder weissherbst-style. Very good.
 
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