Oswaldo Costa
Oswaldo Costa
2005 Pierre André Les Damodes Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru 13.0%
Enjoyed this at a local tasting two years ago, so picked up a few bottles when it went on sale. Since then it has shut down hard. Faint traces of cherry, cloves, iodine and forest floor. Very acidic, very tannic, the one-two punch clobbering the intimidated fruit. Oak and alcohol unobtrusive. There seems to be enough structure for this to age, so I hope it pulls off a Karate Kid someday, for the sake of my remaining bottles. Don’t know anything about this producer. Their website suggests that they are not small.
2006 Chateau de Fesles Chenin Sec Anjou 13.5%
Light limestone and white flower. Decent balance and weight, nice final bitterness, but a bit bland. Sweetness a bit candied and begins to oxidize rather quickly in the glass. As it warms, fennel makes an appearance. Though chenin can be temperamental at this age, the quick oxidation makes me doubt that this will get better with time.
2006 Chateau de Fesles Cabernet Franc Vieilles Vignes Anjou 13.0%
Somewhat closed, with some cherry and oak, and lots of iodine. Good balance, but shows mid-palate envelope dip. Fruit tastes slightly burnt, perhaps a sign of heavy toast. Overall, too medicinal to be pleasurable.
Based on this joint appearance, no more Chateau de Fesles for moi.
2006 Domaine L’Anglore (Eric Pfifferling) Chemin de la Brune (Rosé) VdF 13.0%
Blend of Aramon and Cinsault. Rusty blood orange pekoe color. Exotic blend of dried apricots, raspberry, fennel, and something metallic. Generates orange déjà-vu, without oxidativeness. Mouth yields additional surprises, quince jam and persimmon. Satisfying weight, appealing texture (boosted by light tannins), and unimpeachable balance. A most peculiar rosé, like a Slovenian Bandolier. Despite five years under a phony orange cork of such loose morals that I could have banged it out with a Dr. Scholl shoe insert, this is entirely unharmed, and disappears with celerity.
2007 Domaine L’Anglore (Eric Pfifferling) Tavel 14.0%
Sleek and slippery black barkless cork, all bark and no bite. Muddy pomegranate color. Strawberry and gunpowder aromas, most diggable. Substantial, with good balance and no heat, despite the 14%. Marred only by a yeasty aftertaste. I’m impressed at how these L’Anglores are capable of sustaining the demoralizing effects of fake corks for six and five years, respectively. A record in my experience.
2009 Clos Roche Blanche Sauvignon #2 Touraine 13.8%
Rich mélange of citrus, white flowers, fennel and rust. Lovely density and balance, attractive bitterness, but ends a bit candied, possibly the ripeness. Has an almost orange-like intensity (with no trace in the color). Appealing and paragonical.
2009 Clos Roche Blanche Cabernet Touraine 12.0%
When I removed the foil, there was some messy seepage and an ominous vinegary smell. In the decanter, no signs of trouble, must have caught this just in time. Leafy blackberries and eucalyptus, with a hint of bacon. Good density and balance, but a strange syrupy note to the sweetness that makes me suspect this was, indeed, damaged somehow. Others, however, loved it. No taste of either cabernet franc or sauvignon, so this co-fermenting technique really does efface each variety. Though something still escapes me about why one would want to do that.
2001 Chateau Nairac Barsac 13.0%
Naphthalene, apricots, and honey. Unctuous, of course, with attractive bitterness and decent acidity offsetting the sweetness. A refined, though rather gooey, package.
Enjoyed this at a local tasting two years ago, so picked up a few bottles when it went on sale. Since then it has shut down hard. Faint traces of cherry, cloves, iodine and forest floor. Very acidic, very tannic, the one-two punch clobbering the intimidated fruit. Oak and alcohol unobtrusive. There seems to be enough structure for this to age, so I hope it pulls off a Karate Kid someday, for the sake of my remaining bottles. Don’t know anything about this producer. Their website suggests that they are not small.
2006 Chateau de Fesles Chenin Sec Anjou 13.5%
Light limestone and white flower. Decent balance and weight, nice final bitterness, but a bit bland. Sweetness a bit candied and begins to oxidize rather quickly in the glass. As it warms, fennel makes an appearance. Though chenin can be temperamental at this age, the quick oxidation makes me doubt that this will get better with time.
2006 Chateau de Fesles Cabernet Franc Vieilles Vignes Anjou 13.0%
Somewhat closed, with some cherry and oak, and lots of iodine. Good balance, but shows mid-palate envelope dip. Fruit tastes slightly burnt, perhaps a sign of heavy toast. Overall, too medicinal to be pleasurable.
Based on this joint appearance, no more Chateau de Fesles for moi.
2006 Domaine L’Anglore (Eric Pfifferling) Chemin de la Brune (Rosé) VdF 13.0%
Blend of Aramon and Cinsault. Rusty blood orange pekoe color. Exotic blend of dried apricots, raspberry, fennel, and something metallic. Generates orange déjà-vu, without oxidativeness. Mouth yields additional surprises, quince jam and persimmon. Satisfying weight, appealing texture (boosted by light tannins), and unimpeachable balance. A most peculiar rosé, like a Slovenian Bandolier. Despite five years under a phony orange cork of such loose morals that I could have banged it out with a Dr. Scholl shoe insert, this is entirely unharmed, and disappears with celerity.
2007 Domaine L’Anglore (Eric Pfifferling) Tavel 14.0%
Sleek and slippery black barkless cork, all bark and no bite. Muddy pomegranate color. Strawberry and gunpowder aromas, most diggable. Substantial, with good balance and no heat, despite the 14%. Marred only by a yeasty aftertaste. I’m impressed at how these L’Anglores are capable of sustaining the demoralizing effects of fake corks for six and five years, respectively. A record in my experience.
2009 Clos Roche Blanche Sauvignon #2 Touraine 13.8%
Rich mélange of citrus, white flowers, fennel and rust. Lovely density and balance, attractive bitterness, but ends a bit candied, possibly the ripeness. Has an almost orange-like intensity (with no trace in the color). Appealing and paragonical.
2009 Clos Roche Blanche Cabernet Touraine 12.0%
When I removed the foil, there was some messy seepage and an ominous vinegary smell. In the decanter, no signs of trouble, must have caught this just in time. Leafy blackberries and eucalyptus, with a hint of bacon. Good density and balance, but a strange syrupy note to the sweetness that makes me suspect this was, indeed, damaged somehow. Others, however, loved it. No taste of either cabernet franc or sauvignon, so this co-fermenting technique really does efface each variety. Though something still escapes me about why one would want to do that.
2001 Chateau Nairac Barsac 13.0%
Naphthalene, apricots, and honey. Unctuous, of course, with attractive bitterness and decent acidity offsetting the sweetness. A refined, though rather gooey, package.