A few very random thoughts on the La Paulee Verticals

Jay Miller

Jay Miller
I thought I was moving through the tables at an annoyingly rapid pace only to discover that I hit the very last one as everyone was heading out.

Doing reds first and following with whites was not only traditional but was tactically the better move as almost everyone else did the reverse meaning that I had fewer crowds.

As a generalization with exceptions I greatly prefer 2008 to either 2007 or 2006. However the lovely and floral 2006 Domaine de l'Arlot Clos des Forets was one of my stars of the tasting for current drinking (of course many other wines - including their 2005 - will be better down the line). Of course they weren't pouring the 2008 so I bought one yesterday to see if the preference holds.

2004 Roumier Chambolle 'Cras' was very very green. Speaking as someone who is relatively insensitive to that element it stuck out like sore thumb. The only 2004 Roumier I'm at all familiar with is the village wine and that, from my recollection, is much better.

Faiveley's 2008 Batard Montrachet is really really good. I was shocked to see what it goes for and will not be buying any but it's really really good.

Fourrier's "Cherbaudes" is just beautiful in 2008. 2006 and 2007 did not show nearly as well. I didn't taste either on release so I don't know if they were shutting down or if the 2008 is really just that much better.

The Duband wines were good (CM "Sentiers"). I sort of resented them for not being Truchot, and they are certainly a huge stylistic change (in the wrong direction for my palate), but they were still good.

I'm not generally a white Burgundy guy but there were two producers I've never had before that I really liked and am even tempted to purchase.

Ballot-Millot Meursault Charmes from 2006 and 2007 were both great. The 2007 was tending towards Chablis rather than Meursault with sea shells and a long and delightful finish. The 2006 was, if anything, drinking even better. The 2005 was a lot less interesting.

Domaine Christian Moreau Pere et Fils was pouring some wonderful Chablis from magnum. The 2006 and 2004 Chablis 'Les Clos' 'Clos des Hospice dans Les Clos' were both wonderful, outclassing the 2005 regular Chablis "Les Clos'. The 2006 was riper with pure melony rainwatery flavors, the 2004 more minerally. The 2006 was my favorite of the two.

Here's the complete list if anyone has any questions:

It was nice to run into Levi as well as some of the DC crowd. Howard - it was great to meet you in person after all these years!

My main takeaways were: splurge on some 2008 Fourriers, and start buying some Domaine l'Arlot. Given that I've always liked their wines I don't know why I haven't bought any in recent years.
 
would be great to compare notes in detail when we get together - I did not make it to the verticals but rather to the grand tasting on Sat, which was mostly 2008s, with some exceptions

I missed a number of tables I meant to get to, as I knew I would - too much chatting with folks I had missed on my trip to france this year - and unfortunately l'Arlot was one of them. Clearly a mistake.

They were out of the Batard by the time I got to the Faiveley table, but a quick taste of 08 Mercury 1er revealed no objections whatsoever. Should we be paying attention to these folks once again?

Agree on 08 Cherbaudes. And F's other 08s.

Sentiers was not shown as one of the 08s, but it sounds like it was miles better than the four wines I've tasted.
 
originally posted by .sasha:
would be great to compare notes in detail when we get together - I did not make it to the verticals but rather to the grand tasting on Sat, which was mostly 2008s, with some exceptions

I missed a number of tables I meant to get to, as I knew I would - too much chatting with folks I had missed on my trip to france this year - and unfortunately l'Arlot was one of them. Clearly a mistake.

They were out of the Batard by the time I got to the Faiveley table, but a quick taste of 08 Mercury 1er revealed no objections whatsoever. Should we be paying attention to these folks once again?

Agree on 08 Cherbaudes. And F's other 08s.

Sentiers was not shown as one of the 08s, but it sounds like it was miles better than the four wines I've tasted.

Oh, another lesson was that this is definitely not the time to be drinking '05s. Though the Rousseau CSJ was great.

I'm not saying the Duband Sentiers were good enough to buy, but given that I went to the table expecting to dislike them they ended up being decent enough wines.
 
how was the 6/7/8 burguet gevrey trio?
the 08 showed very well on Sat.
 
Jay,

It was great to finally meet you. We had a lot of fun at your wine storage place afterwards and I only got into a relatively small amount of trouble with my wife for coming back to the hotel so late. Thank you Jay.

I also loved the Moreau Chablis, both at the verticles on Friday and the Grand Tasting on Saturday. But the star whites to me both days were, not surprisingly, the Leflaive wines. Of course the Montrachets from Drouhin were spectacular, and the Faiveley Batard (which they had both days) were pretty grand.

Not too surprisingly, my favorite reds at the Verticals were some of the older wines - the 1993 Lafarge Volnay Clos des Chenes, the Mugneret Gibourg 1999 Clos Vougeot and the 1990 Jadot Beaune Clos des Ursules were memorable. However, there were other impressive wines as well. I really liked the 2005 Clos des Lambreys (also the 2008 that I had Saturday). For reds, over the two days, the really standout producers to me (not big surprises here) were Mugneret-Gibourg (I really love their wines), Rousseau, Fourrier, Lignier-Belair, Jadot, Lafarge, Drouhin (esp. the 2008 Grands Echezaux on Saturday), and Faiveley (all the wines I had from them both days were really spectacular). Among slightly under the radar producers (if there were any at the Paulee), I Moreau really stuck out among the whites and among the reds I liked Clos des Lambrays (particularly the 2005 but also the 2008) and Burguet a lot and was very impressed by a 2008 Pommard Grands Epenots from Pierre Morey. Very pure.

I am actually in the office now without my notes and I am sure I am leaving producers out.

As for vintages, 2005 really is a good vintage, not only for reds but I thought also for whites. The 2006s reds shown at the vericals were a mixed bag, with some closed and a bit harsh. I am not a big fan of the 2007s. There are some really good 2008s, but one has to be careful as at some producers you find great wines and at others the wines are so-so.

I had my first 2009 experience for reds - just village St. Romaine and Auxey Duress from Gras. If there are any indication of things to come, I am very hopeful. The wines were extremely good for what they were.

For whites, there have been a bunch of great vintages lately and there were some fabulous wines from every vintage from 2004-2008. The 2006s are really drinking well now. I know that they probably won't last forever, but with premox, what will - other than Leflaive.
 
originally posted by Howard Cooper:


I had my first 2009 experience for reds - just village St. Romaine and Auxey Duress from Gras. If there are any indication of things to come, I am very hopeful. The wines were extremely good for what they were.

Did you miss the barrel sample of 2009 La Grande Rue during the Verticals? I found it very oaky but I'm not used to tasting barrel samples.
 
Domaine Christian Moreau Pere et Fils was pouring some wonderful Chablis from magnum. The 2006 and 2004 Chablis 'Les Clos' 'Clos des Hospice dans Les Clos' were both wonderful, outclassing the 2005 regular Chablis "Les Clos'. The 2006 was riper with pure melony rainwatery flavors, the 2004 more minerally. The 2006 was my favorite of the two.

Thanks for the writeup, Jay! Were there any 08 Moreau's? Ought to be a good vintage for them.
 
originally posted by MarkS:
Domaine Christian Moreau Pere et Fils was pouring some wonderful Chablis from magnum. The 2006 and 2004 Chablis 'Les Clos' 'Clos des Hospice dans Les Clos' were both wonderful, outclassing the 2005 regular Chablis "Les Clos'. The 2006 was riper with pure melony rainwatery flavors, the 2004 more minerally. The 2006 was my favorite of the two.

Thanks for the writeup, Jay! Were there any 08 Moreaus? Ought to be a good vintage for them.

Just '04,05,06
 
Great set of notes people. I had never heard of La Paulee before a friend pointed it out and asked if I'd be interested. I suspect that some people get free entry such as writers and the importers probably subsidize it. You all seem to be in the knowledge of such events so I am hoping for a little information please. However, from the other side of the planet it seems quite an amazing event. I googled and all I could find was that the name probably comes from the end of vintage celebration in Mersault.
I also noted comments about the 2005 vintage by Jay. I had a few over last few months and find the tannins are way out there with fruit subdued. So is that what was meant? I have quite a few 2006s ready for terroir tastings so would appreciate feedback on how they are going. eg La Grand Rue and Gaudichots by Potel. I tried Malconsorts Christiane 2 weeks ago and it was looking incredibly youthful and bright.
 
Thanks for the notes Jay. Interesting to see Jadot in your 'preferred' line-up, also your response to the 08s in general.

Moreau has been something of a star since they began bottling their own wines - in 02, I think - haven't they? Alan Uchrinscko wrote once that Vulmur is the best (whatever that might mean in general, he meant with long-term aging) Chablis GC terroir, and that Moreau has the best parcels. I don't know what Alan's rep is ITB, but he used to post with the kind of detail that usually bespeaks effort and knowledge, and made good reading. I just realized he has a website, too, FWIW Uchrinsko on Chablis.
 
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
Thanks for the notes Jay. Interesting to see Jadot in your 'preferred' line-up, also your response to the 08s in general.

Moreau has been something of a star since they began bottling their own wines - in 02, I think - haven't they? Alan Uchrinscko wrote once that Vulmur is the best (whatever that might mean in general, he meant with long-term aging) Chablis GC terroir, and that Moreau has the best parcels. I don't know what Alan's rep is ITB, but he used to post with the kind of detail that usually bespeaks effort and knowledge, and made good reading. I just realized he has a website, too, FWIW Uchrinsko on Chablis.

Haven't seen Alan in years. I knew him from when he worked at Burgundy Wine Company. Very nice and knowledgeable guy. And I say that despite his habit of not showing up for wine dinners without notification.

Jadot was in Howards post, not mine though I also liked the wines. But then I've been an Ursules fan since I first tried it in the 1998 vintage.
 
I think jadot was the only producer not to show any 08 reds at the grand tasting, but a couple of 07 and 06 reds, including an ursules, showed very well.
 
originally posted by Jay Miller:
originally posted by Howard Cooper:


I had my first 2009 experience for reds - just village St. Romaine and Auxey Duress from Gras. If there are any indication of things to come, I am very hopeful. The wines were extremely good for what they were.

Did you miss the barrel sample of 2009 La Grande Rue during the Verticals? I found it very oaky but I'm not used to tasting barrel samples.

I had the 2009 barrel sample Friday, but I found the La Grande Rue's too young Friday to be able to tell much. Among other issues, Jay, I have difficulties tasting young Vosne Romanee. With a little age, I love them, but young a lot of them have a kind of sour cherry, spicey flavor that I really don't like.
 
originally posted by MarkS:
Domaine Christian Moreau Pere et Fils was pouring some wonderful Chablis from magnum. The 2006 and 2004 Chablis 'Les Clos' 'Clos des Hospice dans Les Clos' were both wonderful, outclassing the 2005 regular Chablis "Les Clos'. The 2006 was riper with pure melony rainwatery flavors, the 2004 more minerally. The 2006 was my favorite of the two.

Thanks for the writeup, Jay! Were there any 08 Moreau's? Ought to be a good vintage for them.

They were tasted Saturday, and it was quite a good vintage for them.
 
originally posted by .sasha:
I think jadot was the only producer not to show any 08 reds at the grand tasting, but a couple of 07 and 06 reds, including an ursules, showed very well.

They told me Saturday that they showed 2006s because they were already sold out of 2008s (and 2009s).
 
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
He's been known to praise Lafouge, as well. Have you run into any 08 Lafouge wines?

I was surprisingly disappointed by the ones I've tried a few months ago. I expect they will improve based on past experience but for whatever reason (travel or bottle shock possibly?) I wasn't thrilled.
 
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