TN: Chavannes, Haut Bailly, Doisy-Vedrines, Huet Petillant, Meulenhof

Ian Fitzsimmons

Ian Fitzsimmons
2009 Pavillion du Chavannes Ambassade Cote de Brouilly

Less generous with its fruit than the other 09 cru Beaujolais I've tasted so far (Vissoux, Foillard, Coudert, Brun), with a pronounced (ripe) tannin edge, but very fine, with good acid-fruit-tannin balance. Some coffee, red-black fruit sensation, good tension or nerve. At $18, a re-buy.

Between this and Thivin's wines (which sport nearly the same label), Cote de Brouilly may be my sweet spot in this region. This is the best young-drinking Beaujolais of the vintage so far for me - maybe because my tastes lean away from primary fruit - with its nice balance and sense of lightness.

2002 Haut Bailly Pessac-Leognan

Drank over four days: showed some fruit but was a fuzzy, tannic mess of components. Straightened out progressively, becoming nicely-delineated, well-proportioned, discretely fine Bordeaux. The last glass was the best.

1998 Doisy-Vedrines

Imbibed over a week as aperitif. Rather sugary to start; at its best about half-way through, when sweet and sour came into balance; still good as it began to fade at the end of the week. Drink or hold, but no hurry.

2002 Huet Petillant, first bottling

Opened to toast my son's birthday. Texturally nice at first, but hard- and bitter-tasting. Needs a decant, then shows some flattering roundness and biscuity richness. Nice, but still young, I'd guess.

2002 Meulenhof Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett

Nice, balanced MSR Kabinett, showing the delicacy of the WS vineyard. A bit young; give a healthy decant if opening now.
 
I'm a huge fan of the Ambassades. The house style seems very consistent. The '09 tastes pretty much like the last few vintages, and not much like other '09s.
 
originally posted by Keith Levenberg:
I'm a huge fan of the Ambassades. The house style seems very consistent. The '09 tastes pretty much like the last few vintages, and not much like other '09s.

I recently read through your CT notes on the 05 and 09 - thanks.
 
originally posted by Keith Levenberg:
I'm a huge fan of the Ambassades. The house style seems very consistent. The '09 tastes pretty much like the last few vintages, and not much like other '09s.

And you like this consistency? Somehow when I first read the note I just assumed you wrote "I'm not a huge fan"...

Of course I haven't tasted the wine. Will have to check it out.
 
i will have to check in on a chavannes tonight. i bought a few when they first showed up and thought they pretty big and blocky.
 
Interesting. Consistency is soothing, but suggests result-oriented winemaking, rather than process-oriented, to use the Monkey's useful distinction.
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
Interesting. Consistency is soothing, but suggests result-oriented winemaking, rather than process-oriented, to use the Monkey's useful distinction.

Don't you just love drinking the process ?
 
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
.

Between this and Thivin's wines (which sport nearly the same label), Cote de Brouilly may be my sweet spot in this region. This is the best young-drinking Beaujolais of the vintage so far for me - maybe because my tastes lean away from primary fruit - with its nice balance and sense of lightness.
I like the '09 Thivin too, and agree with your description. It is a bit lighter with more verve then some other 09s. Not all the 2009 Cote de Brouilly have the same sense of lightness. The Vissoux Pierreux is a big bruiser compared to the Thivin. Dark ripe fruit and lots of tannin, in need of some cellar time for me.
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
Interesting. Consistency is soothing, but suggests result-oriented winemaking, rather than process-oriented, to use the Monkey's useful distinction.

Is low alcohol, balanced, food friendly wine not a result? Do 09's have to be super ripe and fruity to "speak of the vintage"? Just curious as I don't think Chavannes wines are spoofed or anything. If thy can create a lighter well balanced wine in a vintage like 09 with a reasonable bag of tricks and aesthetic direction, power to them. An '09 Foillard Py the other night was a little thick for my liking at this point.
 
originally posted by Marc D:
originally posted by .sasha:
Marc, Pierreux is a Brouilly, not a CdB.
Ah thanks.
Its a low land wine, explains the richness )
I thought the Brun CdB was pretty stunning in this vintage too...maybe that was the sweet spot.
 
originally posted by Brian C:
originally posted by Marc D:
originally posted by .sasha:
Marc, Pierreux is a Brouilly, not a CdB.
Ah thanks.
Its a low land wine, explains the richness )
I thought the Brun CdB was pretty stunning in this vintage too...maybe that was the sweet spot.
I've been waiting on mine. Have you drank any recently?
 
got a story about brun CdB 09

I tasted it early on in France and just loved it. Couldn't wait for the ship to come in.

Tasted once in the fall - nice, but something missing. Again a month later - still nice, still something missing. And a third time.

Finally dug up my original note. Turned out to be the 08.
 
originally posted by Brian C:
originally posted by Marc D:
originally posted by .sasha:
Marc, Pierreux is a Brouilly, not a CdB.
Ah thanks.
Its a low land wine, explains the richness )
I thought the Brun CdB was pretty stunning in this vintage too...maybe that was the sweet spot.

I've read the notes on this CdB, too; would like to try some.

Even makers with a light signature will manipulate process steps to achieve results in a desired range, won't they? Cold soaks, fermentation temperature ... even if it's just selecting their harvest date. I would imagine Chavannes harvested earlier than some other makers, in order to achieve a wine they may feel is typical of the region.

Anyway, the wine tasted good, nothing to suggest spoof. Looking forward to the second half tonight.
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
Interesting. Consistency is soothing, but suggests result-oriented winemaking, rather than process-oriented, to use the Monkey's useful distinction.
Why so? It could just as easily suggest an individual terroir that asserts itself through all different kinds of growing seasons.
 
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