TN: JBL visit (March 6, 2011)

originally posted by Josh Beck:
originally posted by Levi Dalton:
I used to know a restaurant in Manhattan that served the 2005 Scarzello Barolo by the glass, however it is now closed.

I would think that if you located bottles of F. Rinaldi 95 or 00, that they would be over $100 a bottle as well.

A closed restaurant in Manhattan gets me no closer to the goal! And I don't disagree on the cost of 95 or 00 F Rinaldi, but was hoping to assess your conjecture of 'best Barolo QPR' by putting together an under $50 lineup of stuff like Vietti Castiglione, Cavallotto Bricco Boschis, F Rinaldi Brunate, Cantina del Pino Ovello, Produttori Ovello or Asili, Vajra Albe, Brovia Barolo and hopefully the Scarzello and seeing what shakes out of the proverbial tree...

you could throw oddero normale into that mix too.
 
originally posted by maureen:
wow, I haven't seen Jayson and Manuel since our weekend together at MoCool - they look great! Is Manuel back in NY?

and if I come to NY will I get a dinner like thrown for me? especially christine's pork dish???? (although I am anxious to try the kitchen stylings of Mr. D).

They were, alas, just visiting.

You could certainly have a dinner thrown for you. For one like that the stars have to align a bit. Which they might do. You can never tell with stars these day.
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
Brad,

The '99 Nigl was the Riesling Privat.

"Lean" would be an outlier reaction to the wine, I think.

Though in his defense, since it was opened after I left that must mean it came after all the desserts. I even found the Prevost lean after all the desserts but you know how much I loved it on Tuesday.

Aged gruner is one of the world's great wines (and I owe Joe for demonstrating that to me) but the 2001 Vinothekfullung is a bit heavy for me. Maybe it's just too young. Or maybe it's just too heavy.
 
originally posted by Claude Kolm:
My World of Fine Wines are packed away somewhere, but there's a short article 3-5 years back about a Mount Eden Chardonnays that I did based on a Bipin Desai tasting dinner (IMO, not the optimum way to taste, but useful nonetheless).

When I say 1978 Mt Eden Vineyard is one of the greatest wines from Chardonnay grape that I have tasted, I say that having had more than my fair share of Montrachet from DRC, Leflaive, Lafon, Laguiche, etc.; Corton-Charlemagne from Bonneau-du-Martray and Coche-Dury, among others; and Chablis grand cru from the likes of Raveneau and Dauvissat. And as I mentioned above, the estate is very traditional, making wine very much the way it did back in 1978 (and before to the legendary Martin Ray estate, for what I know).

But of course, each bottle is different and each palate, too. I could go on about Ruck or Horst Sauer in Franken and many would remain unmoved before the wines.
I second everything good you've said about Mt Eden chards, to know them is to love them. Can't speak for that particular bottle they drank in the post. one of the few CA chards I try each year and buy accordingly. I will say my chards are basically burgs with few exceptions and Mt Eden is one of them.
 
originally posted by Lou Kessler:
Yes
originally posted by Claude Kolm:
My World of Fine Wines are packed away somewhere, but there's a short article 3-5 years back about a Mount Eden Chardonnays that I did based on a Bipin Desai tasting dinner (IMO, not the optimum way to taste, but useful nonetheless).

When I say 1978 Mt Eden Vineyard is one of the greatest wines from Chardonnay grape that I have tasted, I say that having had more than my fair share of Montrachet from DRC, Leflaive, Lafon, Laguiche, etc.; Corton-Charlemagne from Bonneau-du-Martray and Coche-Dury, among others; and Chablis grand cru from the likes of Raveneau and Dauvissat. And as I mentioned above, the estate is very traditional, making wine very much the way it did back in 1978 (and before to the legendary Martin Ray estate, for what I know).

But of course, each bottle is different and each palate, too. I could go on about Ruck or Horst Sauer in Franken and many would remain unmoved before the wines.
I second everything good you've said about Mt Eden chards, to know them is to love them. Can't speak for that particular bottle they drank in the post. one of the few CA chards I try each year and buy accordingly. I will say my chards are basically burgs with few exceptions and Mt Eden is one of them.

I've only been drinking and buying them for a few years but this is the first (and only) bottle I've had that I've disliked. It definitely tasted like an overoaked CA chardonnay. And that was weird and unexpected.
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
originally posted by Joel Stewart:

Smaragd (to me, with all disclaimers applying) seems sorta like trying to make a muscadet into a strong man.
I'd have to disagree.

In the Wachau, it turns out that the Smaragds are the wines that age into something interesting. Aging Federspiel is in general a long shot. Not to defend every Smaragd or to damn every Federspiel, but in the list of things that might be worth aging there are many Smaragds and few Federspiels.

And I say that as a guy with 6 year old Muscadet in my glass as I type.

We meant no disrespect, Godfather.
 
originally posted by .sasha:
originally posted by SFJoe:
originally posted by Joel Stewart:

Smaragd (to me, with all disclaimers applying) seems sorta like trying to make a muscadet into a strong man.
I'd have to disagree.

In the Wachau, it turns out that the Smaragds are the wines that age into something interesting. Aging Federspiel is in general a long shot. Not to defend every Smaragd or to damn every Federspiel, but in the list of things that might be worth aging there are many Smaragds and few Federspiels.

And I say that as a guy with 6 year old Muscadet in my glass as I type.

We meant no disrespect, Godfather.
We'll be there in the fall as usual. May sure the slate is clean and Godfather has cleared your name. I would want to know if it would be safe to be in the same room as you? I would not like my demise to be collateral damage.
 
Sorry to hear about the corked bottle of 1978 Sunrise. That wine came out of nowhere to wine a gold medal (or maybe sweepstakes trophy) at the LA County Fair wine competition, back when that meant something. I snagged a couple of bottles and I recall them as being quite good.

I haven't tasted the 2002 Mount Eden Chardonnay for a long time but a 2001 from magnum a few months ago was divine. It was right around that time that they moved to using more Sirugue barrels in their elevage and the Chardonnays have seemed more nuanced since then than they were with whatever cooper they used before.

originally posted by Claude Kolm:
originally posted by Joel Stewart:

Joel (copying Eden, by adding a statement onto my signature.)
And also a signature onto your statement.

No problem at all. It's not like I invented this punctuation stuff.

-Eden (although I'll admit to improvising on it from time to time)
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Fritz Haag 2008 Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese - 1 bunch...
I meant to ask: On the Haag labels, in amongst the words that name the wine, there is a "1" followed by an iconic grape bunch (six gold dots, arranged as an inverted pyramid). What does that signify?
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Fritz Haag 2008 Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese - 1 bunch...
I meant to ask: On the Haag labels, in amongst the words that name the wine, there is a "1" followed by an iconic grape bunch (six gold dots, arranged as an inverted pyramid). What does that signify?
Erste Lage vineyard. Explanation.
 
Thank you both, Cristian and Claude. That was it.

Following Claude's link, I now have another question: Under the "Style" section it says:

"Dry wines from a top site (Erste Lage) are designated Grosses Gewächs. Fruity wines with natural sweetness are denoted by the traditional Prädikats from Spätlese to Trockenbeerenauslese."

Is that meant to exclude Kabinett or do I not understand how the Germans list things (i.e., not in value order (which sounds very un-Germanic to me))?
 
The VDP wants to suppress use of individual vineyards for Kabinett wines, especially for Erste Lage sites. Some producers are following this approach, but others are ignoring it.

The state of German wine labelling these days can best be described as anarchy and madness. A few examples:

Although most producers put the name of the village followed by the vineyard, some reverse this order. You'd recognize that for famous vineyards, such as Wehlener Sonnenuhr, but very few people know vineyards and wine towns well enough not to be misled at least a good portion of the time.

Also, for Erste Lage sites, many producers just list the name of the vineyard, supposedly adopting the Burgundy model. But there's only a single vineyard for each Burgundy grand cru; there are two different Erste Lagen in the Nahe alone that bear the name Felseneck. And for Kirchenstück, to choose one example, there are Erste Lagen with that name in the Rheingau, Pfalz, and Rheinhessen, and various other vineyards with that name throughout Germany.
 
Are they trying to not-so-subtly hint that Kabinett is sufficiently dry that such wine should move from the "fruity" to "dry" wine designations?

Or just that Kabinett can't reflect the terroir because it's neither dry enough nor sweet enough to do the job?

(My head hurts trying to imagine what's wrong with just one of the Pradikats.)
 
Thanks to global warming, most Kabinetts are sweeter than ever; in some vintages, many are technically Auslesen.

The problem seems to be that some people don't want to recognize Kabinett as a serious wine. This may be related to the fact that many/most Germans who drink wine believe that German wine has to be either dry or Auslese or above (i.e., dessert wine); so they're making a stretch even to allow Spätlese in (and at one point, the stupid VDP rules did not allow a fruity-style Spätlese to be labelled from an Erste Lage vineyard if there was a GG from that vineyard in the same vintage).
 
Ah, so it's wine politics, not the wine, that is leading the discussion.

Whew. I was afraid, for just a moment, that it was going to make some sense.

Thank you for the clarification, Claude.
 
originally posted by Claude Kolm:
Thanks to global warming, most Kabinetts are sweeter than ever; in some vintages, many are technically Auslesen.

The problem seems to be that some people don't want to recognize Kabinett as a serious wine. This may be related to the fact that many/most Germans who drink wine believe that German wine has to be either dry or Auslese or above (i.e., dessert wine); so they're making a stretch even to allow Spätlese in (and at one point, the stupid VDP rules did not allow a fruity-style Spätlese to be labelled from an Erste Lage vineyard if there was a GG from that vineyard in the same vintage).

Ow. Banging my head against the wall hurts. But sometimes it seems like the only rational response.
 
originally posted by Claude Kolm:
Thanks to global warming, most Kabinetts are sweeter than ever; in some vintages, many are technically Auslesen.

The problem seems to be that some people don't want to recognize Kabinett as a serious wine. This may be related to the fact that many/most Germans who drink wine believe that German wine has to be either dry or Auslese or above (i.e., dessert wine); so they're making a stretch even to allow Spätlese in (and at one point, the stupid VDP rules did not allow a fruity-style Spätlese to be labelled from an Erste Lage vineyard if there was a GG from that vineyard in the same vintage).
The majority of customers in our store have been turned off by German labeling for years and this just adds to their negative opinions.
I'm sure if the labels were easier to read we would sell more German wines and the prices would go up. I guess something positive in their bad marketing can be seen for the fan in this approach.
 
originally posted by Claude Kolm:
The VDP wants to suppress use of individual vineyards for Kabinett wines, especially for Erste Lage sites. Some producers are following this approach, but others are ignoring it.

The state of German wine labelling these days can best be described as anarchy and madness. A few examples:

Although most producers put the name of the village followed by the vineyard, some reverse this order. You'd recognize that for famous vineyards, such as Wehlener Sonnenuhr, but very few people know vineyards and wine towns well enough not to be misled at least a good portion of the time.

Also, for Erste Lage sites, many producers just list the name of the vineyard, supposedly adopting the Burgundy model. But there's only a single vineyard for each Burgundy grand cru; there are two different Erste Lagen in the Nahe alone that bear the name Felseneck. And for Kirchenstück, to choose one example, there are Erste Lagen with that name in the Rheingau, Pfalz, and Rheinhessen, and various other vineyards with that name throughout Germany.

Sounds disorderly.

Funny, though; I've been drinking German wines longer than any other and the more I drink, the more I prefer Kabinetts.
 
Back
Top