1995 Trimbach Riesling Clos Ste. Hune - France, Alsace, Hunawihr, Alsace AOC (3/18/2011)
Magnificent. Fairly full, the texture of a beautiful white Burgundy without any hint of oak, walking the line between the richness of butter and cream, on the one hand, and the clarity of olive oil on the other. I was surprised by its rounded quality: not sweet by any means, everything was perfectly ripe, including the acidity; there was no hint of austerity. Rainwater over perfectly smooth stones. Pit fruits and beautiful floral overtones framed by endless mineral depth. Everything in place. There was nothing forced, no preening. I do not think this could have shown better. The stars were aligned.
2002 Triacca Valtellina Superiore - Sassella - Italy, Lombardia, Valtellina, Valtellina Superiore - Sassella (3/18/2011)
This suffered for being served after the stunning Clos St. Hune, but it was singing on its own terms. When opened, about 4:45pm, it showed structure and a little fruit from a small tasting pour. I was afraid to double decant so early, so I stuck a cork in it and carried it -- first to a tasting, then to dinner. We started in on it by about 8:30, I'd guess. It had put on some weight, showed mostly red perfume but a little hollow on the palate. But it continued to flesh out over the course of the evening. By 11:30, having taken the last little bit back on another subway ride..., it had really fleshed out and showed some substance to match the perfume. Not profound. Not tons of complexity. But lovely lift and a lovely tension between weightlessness and intense aromatics. Too bad this was the last one. The winery says drink up in 7yrs. Bunk.
2004 Éric Texier Côtes du Rhône-Brézème Domaine de Pergaud - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône-Brézème (3/20/2011)
My bottles are in a good spot. This still shows some tannin, but there is no harm in drinking now. It depends what you're looking for. This is open and expansive, with earth, olives, rocks, and, as I say, some tannin left to resolve.
2002 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette Cuvée Tardive - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie (3/20/2011)
Good showing, but not great. On opening, it was a little stinky and sour, so I slow ox'ed for a few hours and decanted right before serving. That perked things up quite a bit. Showing a little orange, it has spread out on the nose and palate with telltale leather, earth, and violets. Better is yet to come, I suspect.
2002 Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Nahe (3/19/2011)
Petrol city, sugar, and not much else. Disappointing given what it was on release and what it's supposed to be.
2006 Edmond Vatan Sancerre Clos la Néore - France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre (3/19/2011)
Opens fresh and young, with a typical Sauvignon Blanc profile, but not much Vatan. Opened up quite a bit after an hour in the decanter. I don't think this is the best time to be checking in, but, still, wow, lovely stuff with gorgeous minerality.
2005 Michel Tête Juliénas Domaine du Clos du Fief - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Juliénas (3/19/2011)
Not ready. On opening, the nose was completely primary, with a striking, fresh varietal character. The tannins are still present, and very bitter. We nursed it for an hour or two in a decanter. The fruit came out and was nice but never overcame the austerity.
Magnificent. Fairly full, the texture of a beautiful white Burgundy without any hint of oak, walking the line between the richness of butter and cream, on the one hand, and the clarity of olive oil on the other. I was surprised by its rounded quality: not sweet by any means, everything was perfectly ripe, including the acidity; there was no hint of austerity. Rainwater over perfectly smooth stones. Pit fruits and beautiful floral overtones framed by endless mineral depth. Everything in place. There was nothing forced, no preening. I do not think this could have shown better. The stars were aligned.
2002 Triacca Valtellina Superiore - Sassella - Italy, Lombardia, Valtellina, Valtellina Superiore - Sassella (3/18/2011)
This suffered for being served after the stunning Clos St. Hune, but it was singing on its own terms. When opened, about 4:45pm, it showed structure and a little fruit from a small tasting pour. I was afraid to double decant so early, so I stuck a cork in it and carried it -- first to a tasting, then to dinner. We started in on it by about 8:30, I'd guess. It had put on some weight, showed mostly red perfume but a little hollow on the palate. But it continued to flesh out over the course of the evening. By 11:30, having taken the last little bit back on another subway ride..., it had really fleshed out and showed some substance to match the perfume. Not profound. Not tons of complexity. But lovely lift and a lovely tension between weightlessness and intense aromatics. Too bad this was the last one. The winery says drink up in 7yrs. Bunk.
2004 Éric Texier Côtes du Rhône-Brézème Domaine de Pergaud - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône-Brézème (3/20/2011)
My bottles are in a good spot. This still shows some tannin, but there is no harm in drinking now. It depends what you're looking for. This is open and expansive, with earth, olives, rocks, and, as I say, some tannin left to resolve.
2002 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette Cuvée Tardive - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie (3/20/2011)
Good showing, but not great. On opening, it was a little stinky and sour, so I slow ox'ed for a few hours and decanted right before serving. That perked things up quite a bit. Showing a little orange, it has spread out on the nose and palate with telltale leather, earth, and violets. Better is yet to come, I suspect.
2002 Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Nahe (3/19/2011)
Petrol city, sugar, and not much else. Disappointing given what it was on release and what it's supposed to be.
2006 Edmond Vatan Sancerre Clos la Néore - France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre (3/19/2011)
Opens fresh and young, with a typical Sauvignon Blanc profile, but not much Vatan. Opened up quite a bit after an hour in the decanter. I don't think this is the best time to be checking in, but, still, wow, lovely stuff with gorgeous minerality.
2005 Michel Tête Juliénas Domaine du Clos du Fief - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Juliénas (3/19/2011)
Not ready. On opening, the nose was completely primary, with a striking, fresh varietal character. The tannins are still present, and very bitter. We nursed it for an hour or two in a decanter. The fruit came out and was nice but never overcame the austerity.