What a ton of fun! It should be noted, however, that this party wasn't the evening of Dressner's NY stop on the Real Wine Assault tour, which was Saturday, but was last night, Sunday night, a school night, a night that finally ended sometime after 1:30 am and after a tasty array of food and over 70 wines were opened! Huge thanks go to Joe Dougherty for hosting over 30 winemakers and about 60 people in total and risking the wrath of his neighbors for some epic revelry.
So many terrific wines opened. Some of my highlights were:
'91 Lopez de Heredia- Rioja Gran Reserva Vina Tondonia- Tight, but excellent. Really needs some time.
'78 Lopez de Heredia- Rioja Gran Reserva Vina Tondonia- This was one I never particularly liked. In fact. I've described it as Mr. Ed before. This bottle showed much better than ones in the past, but it still doesn't wow me. Too much acidity and not enough fruit. It's much more in the earthy/leathery realm and with the citrusy acidity, it's too severe.
'98 Weinbach- Riesling Schlossberg, Cuvee Ste. Catherine L'Inedit- Stellar. Terrific richness and balance.
'71 Huet- Vouvray Demi-Sec, Le Haut-Lieu- Amazing how quick this went. I got two sips. Stunning, as always, but it received no air and it would've been so much better with a quick, brutal decant.
'87 Frog's Leap- Cabernet, Napa- Showed pleasant fruit, perhaps a tad lean with good acidity. I like bringing older California cabs when foreign wine makers around as it's something they normally don't get to try and it helps erase any preconceived notions about American winemaking. This wine, and the Estralla River Winery, where well received by the winemakers. Even Alice Feiring liked the Frog's Leap. A comment that was made repeatedly was that it's an honest wine. That's big kudo's from this crowd.
'78 Estrella River Winery- Cab, San Louis Obispo- I'd had the '77 before and it blew me away. This wasn't quite at that level, but was still beautiful. Full of sweet black fruit, touch of cedar, mint and herb. Plenty of life to it.
NV Renardet-Fache Bugey-Cerdon Rose, Demi-Sec - "FR-BIO-01"- You can't help but smile when you have this. Lightly petillant, it has light sweet, but is balanced. Crisp finish, good minerality with joyful red fruit.
'08 Metras- Fleurie- This was beautiful. Gorgeous Gamay fruit that's pretty ripe and lush for '08 with a sexy, silky mouthfeel. There were a bunch of folks raving about this one.
'09 (I think) Dashe Cellars- Grenache L'Enfant Terrible- Just fun, honest, slurpable Grenache. I wish more wines were made in this style in California.
Some other notes from the evening:
-Seeing Alice Feiring dancing with Arianna Ochipinti was definitely a highlight.
-Arianna is clearly the life of the party. She's a non-stop bundle of fun and energy.
-The mole Joe and Josefa made was stellar. It had heat, but no real burn. It finished with a gentle, persistent warmth and had incredible depth to it. It was nice to see the normally spice adverse Frenchies in the crowd gobbling it up.
-Even though there were 70+ bottles of wine, we were actually short on wine. Always happens when there are more vigneron than geeks in the crowd. Geeks bring a lot more wine, but, in their defense, the vigneron were/are on a traveling road show.
-Marc Ollivier's english has gotten really good. I remember a time when it was about the level of my French, so all we could really say to each other was hello, so it was really nice to be able to chat with him as he's a terrific and talented fellow.