WTN : slosh notes

MarkS

Mark Svereika
The ground is like sponge and the cellar is damp. Sloshing with galoshes is fun and educational.

Bressan, Venezia Giulia IGT, Verduzzo Friulano, 2003
Not as 'orange' a wine as I was led to believe, but this could be an orange wine for those just getting their feet wet. Color is a light pear gold that has a sulfury nose that soon blows off. Muted aromas of toasted almonds, butter cookies, allspice. Windmill cookie flavors, with spring twigs and grapeskins. Some bitter green almond on the finish. Good acidity for an 03. Me like. A-/B+

Digioia-Royer, Chambolle Musigny, 2006
Sappy red-fruited nose with some floral component (roses?). Way too young to assess, but suspect it will have a good future. The next day a little more comes out, especially black raspberry, iron, with strong tannins at the finish. Hold. B+

Dom. Edmund Jacquin, Roussette de Savoie, 'Marestel', 2009
Plastic cork. Fresh nose of spring tree blossoms, slightly herbal. Refreshing, but finishes flat without much acidic bite. Drink now! B+

Peter Jakob Kuhn, Mittelheim, 'St. Nikolaus', riesling, trocken, 2006
Sulfur-y skunk cabbage nose. Zesty jalapeno-skin, lemon zest and ginger, with a petroleum jelly finish. Not the most attractive, especially at $40/bottle. Alright, but doesn't hold much interest. 13% I'm still trying to find a German trocken which actually tastes like what it's worth. The Austrians can do it, why can't they? I find they come up short on flavor-profile-interest and just not worth much of the money charged for them. B+

Terre Nere, Etna Rosso, 'Calderara Sottana', 2004
Let's follow disappointment with disappointment. A stewy, prune-cherry filled mess, sherry and oak cask predominate. Time has not been kind here. Hopefully DeGrazia learns from his early mistakes.

Librandi, Rosso Val di Neto IGT, 'Magno Megonio', 2001
Compared with the Etna, this is drinking at peak, and a beautiful wine. Fenugreek nose, curry leaf. Bone dry and medium-bodied, the fruit is almost nonexistent, this being loved for it's austere qualities and stone-like presence. This has aged well. A-
 
I've really enjoyed the few Bressan wines I've tasted, but I never seem to come across them anymore. I think the only place I've actually seen them on a shelf is in the northwest.

Sorry to hear about the '04 Terre Nere. Speaking for the Guardiola and Calderara in 2004, these wines seemed really promising upon release, but subsequent revisits have increasingly disappointed me since then. I have little experience with anything later than '05, so I don't know how the wines have changed in more recent vintages.
 
I haven't had great luck with aged Terre Nere. I don't really recommend the experiment. The 2006s may prove me wrong, though. They were somewhat backward for awhile there.

A recent Donnhoff Hermanshohle GG 2009 was a stunning German Trocken.
 
Opened a 2005 Terre Nere Calderara the other night and it was kind of unfocused and jingle-jangly, a wine term inspired by the late Henry Bishop, sommelier at Spiaggia in Chicago whose grandfather was George Carlson, the mastermind behind Jingle Jangle Comics, the ne plus ultra of disconnected craziness of the sort that sort of comes together eventually but not quite but is disturbingly entertaining in the meantime. The wine turned out to be okay with corndogs the next day after it had been left un-argoned on the kitchen counter. It wasn't a Lafite-Rothschild dead ringer by any means but its flavors were more integrated and full of oneness and the wine amplified an earthy minerality that had been barely limned under the morass of murk that had obscured it the previous evening. The texture of the corn batter, combined with the snap of the enclosed hot dog worked nicely with the acidity of the wine. Maybe the wine just needs more time, maybe the winemaker just needs more time to get things together, but each vintage seems to improve on release so it's possible that the wines will evolve in the cellar. Or not.

-Eden (when I saw the word "slosh" in the title my mind immediately reveried back to my days at San Luis Obispo Senior High, AKA "SLOSH". It's Kermit Lynch's alma mater too, should the question ever come up on "Jeopardy", an IQ test, or a future season of "This Is Your Life")(or "American Idol", for that matter)
 
originally posted by Levi Dalton:
I haven't had great luck with aged Terre Nere. I don't really recommend the experiment. The 2006s may prove me wrong, though. They were somewhat backward for awhile there.

A recent Donnhoff Hermanshohle GG 2009 was a stunning German Trocken.

Levi, good to know (about the Terre Nere). That Donnhoff GG is pricey. Any experience with the trockens from Emrich-Schonleber, one of my favorite riesling producers?
 
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