New DOCGs

As far as I can tell the award of the 'G' is entirely political, and certainly nothing like an acknowledgement of an appellation's excellence in the context of all Italian wines.

Some examples: the first white DOCG awarded was Albana di Romagna; Cerasuolo di Vittoria is 'G' but Etna is not; Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato is now 'G'.

Apparently the process allows the largest producers in an appellation to dominate, which is obviously not good for quality; the recent bizarre goings-on in Dogliani are the result of larger producers co-opting the 'Dogliani DOCG' tag because they thought it was in their interest to do so.
 
If the expectation is that appellation systems rank absolute quality, then they all--in every nation-- fail that test, as there are always wines from lowlier tiers or more general areas that outperform their higher ranked, more locationally specific brethren.

What the Italian appellation system does is address comparative quality, and I don't believe there is a single DOCG that is less stringently regulated than its preceding DOC.

So tighter regs don't necessarily mean better wine, but it does establish a higher baseline for quality and style, through things like yield maximums and minimum aging.

I don't think a DOCG necessarily favors larger producers, either, and I'm curious why Oliver would make that claim?

Yes, the Italian system is politicized, but aren't they all? Small Champagne farmers weren't thrilled with the expansion of the zone last year, but it helped the big houses. And not to pick on the French, but at least the Italians make some effort to respect the vineyard potential, which is more than can be said of the Bordeaux system that has enshrined a hierarchy based largely on just the name of the chateau.
 
originally posted by chaad thomas:
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I don't think a DOCG necessarily favors larger producers, either, and I'm curious why Oliver would make that claim?
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Because I've talked to a smaller producer who was involved in the process, and objected to the most recent changes in the appellation, but was informed that if the two largest producers wanted something to happen, that was pretty much the whole story (as they dominate the volume of the appellation).
 
originally posted by Sharon Bowman:
originally posted by chaad thomas:
Small Champagne farmers weren't thrilled with the expansion of the zone last year...
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...but damn, were the potato farmers, in those villages.
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I have a soft spot for potato farmers.
 
originally posted by Oliver McCrum:
originally posted by chaad thomas:
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I don't think a DOCG necessarily favors larger producers, either, and I'm curious why Oliver would make that claim?
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Because I've talked to a smaller producer who was involved in the process, and objected to the most recent changes in the appellation, but was informed that if the two largest producers wanted something to happen, that was pretty much the whole story (as they dominate the volume of the appellation).
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Ah, you mean the process of getting the "G", which going back to look at your first post, is exactly what you'd said the first time! Sorry, I'd misread it.

The irony in the race to attain DOCG status is that producers, once they have it, think they are then entitled to charge more for the wine, which will actually slow sales. Usually it's either you get high price or you get high volume; it's nearly impossible to get both. I think a lot of Italians have the false belief that the USA market values DOCG status as much as they do.
 
I just want to make clear that I am delighted to be an importer of Italian wines, I love the people I deal with, I love the increasing quality of indigenous varieties and wine styles in Italy, I just hate the bureaucracy. I don't want to come across as bitter and crabby. (Other than the minimum necessary to blend in.)
 
No.

I love what I do and I don't want to leave the wrong impression with any group, however select. Italy is full of people and wines I like but the political aspect of the country is a disaster.
 
originally posted by Oliver McCrum:
No.

... but the political aspect of the country is a disaster.
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Funny, I was just thinking this driving home the other night,listening to Silvio's latest travails. Such an interesting country, such labyrinthian politics.
 
originally posted by Steven Spielmann:
Before Berlusconi locks him out, I want to congratulate Oliver on one of the wines he imports winning the Asimov Panel in today's NYT.
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Thanks, Steven. One of about three wine journalists I like, which is nice.
 
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