Christine Huang, bless her talented and generous heart, despite having a big dinner party at her place on Friday, was still in the mood to cook. So, last night she corralled Paul and Sandy Jaouen, recently returned from Burgundy and full of stories, Bill Lawrence, Michel Abood and myself for yet another fantastic dinner at her place. The food was so good, we were hearing happy noises coming from Bill that will torment us the rest of our lives! The wines were terrific, too.
1996 Closel- Savennières, Cuvée Spéciale “Clos du Papillon”
Made only in ’89 and ’96 due to exceptional vintage conditions, this is showing quite well. It’s effusive with air, showing plenty of quince, bees wax, toasted nuts and mineral on the nose and palate. It’s expansive and rich, though quite dry. While still quite fresh, there’s a bit more nutty oxidation than I now prefer and I’m thinking that, to my tastes, I should’ve drunk these younger, though this definitely has the structure and fruit to age awhile longer. On release, this and the ’89 version were my favorite Savennières of all time and I think the ’89 is still showing fresher and less oxidative. Solid A-.
2005 Etienne Sauzet- Batard-Montrachet
Quite nice for Chardonnay, actually. Plenty of pear, mineral and oak flavors and aromas, but the oak really isn’t too overdone, though there is a little more than I prefer. There’s a real gravitas to this wine. Terrific depth and richness, but nicely balanced with a creamy mouthfeel a long finish. I liked this, but it should be noted that I think everyone else liked this more than I did. Solid A-.
2007 Domaine Ramonet- Chassagne-Montrachet “Morgeot”
I found too much sulfur on the nose, though swirling did help. Lots of citrus here with the oak not as integrated as it was in the Sauzet. Big structure. Not doing much for me, though, again, I was with folks that like Chardonnay. B+.
1973 Muga- Rioja Gran Reserva “Conde de Haro”
Started off like silk. Resolved on the palate with just a luscious, silky texture. There’s still nice ripeness and intensity to the cherry fruit, with tobacco and spicy old wood in the background. With air, orange citrusy acidity came up with a little leather and took some of the harmony away, but this was just lovely and a nice pairing with the duck legs with braised carrots and leeks. A-.
2002 Faiveley- Latricières-Chambertin
Paul said he double decanted this in the a.m., but by dinner time it was still pretty tight. It’s more giving on the nose, where it showed beautiful strawberries and cherries with a spicy note. A little lean and tight, but there’s some nice fruit here. A touch of wood sticks out, but some more age should see it integrated. I’d lay off these a little while longer. Low A-.
2005 Ponsot- Morey Saint Denis, “Cuvée des Alouettes”
Now this is a little more my style. Quite rich with riper and blacker fruit than the Faiveley. Just lip-smacking goodness on the palate with a nice stoniness at the back. There’s good structure here, though the fruit is still upfront and masks it to some degree. Solid A-.
2001 Castelnau de Suduiraut- Sauternes
Pleasant, if not particularly complex. Some nice butterscotch with tropical fruit and apricot flavors, but the wine is a little light, shows a bit of alcohol and drops off on the finish. B+/B.
Some pics for your viewing pleasure.
The group.
The wines.
Caramelized onion, olive and red pepper tarte.
Baby lima bean and pea purée.
Roasted asparagus with poached egg and miso butter. Insanely good!
Yolky goodness.
Farro risotto with spring vegetables.
Braised duck legs with carrots and leeks.
Mango and apricot Charlotte.
Plated.
1996 Closel- Savennières, Cuvée Spéciale “Clos du Papillon”
Made only in ’89 and ’96 due to exceptional vintage conditions, this is showing quite well. It’s effusive with air, showing plenty of quince, bees wax, toasted nuts and mineral on the nose and palate. It’s expansive and rich, though quite dry. While still quite fresh, there’s a bit more nutty oxidation than I now prefer and I’m thinking that, to my tastes, I should’ve drunk these younger, though this definitely has the structure and fruit to age awhile longer. On release, this and the ’89 version were my favorite Savennières of all time and I think the ’89 is still showing fresher and less oxidative. Solid A-.
2005 Etienne Sauzet- Batard-Montrachet
Quite nice for Chardonnay, actually. Plenty of pear, mineral and oak flavors and aromas, but the oak really isn’t too overdone, though there is a little more than I prefer. There’s a real gravitas to this wine. Terrific depth and richness, but nicely balanced with a creamy mouthfeel a long finish. I liked this, but it should be noted that I think everyone else liked this more than I did. Solid A-.
2007 Domaine Ramonet- Chassagne-Montrachet “Morgeot”
I found too much sulfur on the nose, though swirling did help. Lots of citrus here with the oak not as integrated as it was in the Sauzet. Big structure. Not doing much for me, though, again, I was with folks that like Chardonnay. B+.
1973 Muga- Rioja Gran Reserva “Conde de Haro”
Started off like silk. Resolved on the palate with just a luscious, silky texture. There’s still nice ripeness and intensity to the cherry fruit, with tobacco and spicy old wood in the background. With air, orange citrusy acidity came up with a little leather and took some of the harmony away, but this was just lovely and a nice pairing with the duck legs with braised carrots and leeks. A-.
2002 Faiveley- Latricières-Chambertin
Paul said he double decanted this in the a.m., but by dinner time it was still pretty tight. It’s more giving on the nose, where it showed beautiful strawberries and cherries with a spicy note. A little lean and tight, but there’s some nice fruit here. A touch of wood sticks out, but some more age should see it integrated. I’d lay off these a little while longer. Low A-.
2005 Ponsot- Morey Saint Denis, “Cuvée des Alouettes”
Now this is a little more my style. Quite rich with riper and blacker fruit than the Faiveley. Just lip-smacking goodness on the palate with a nice stoniness at the back. There’s good structure here, though the fruit is still upfront and masks it to some degree. Solid A-.
2001 Castelnau de Suduiraut- Sauternes
Pleasant, if not particularly complex. Some nice butterscotch with tropical fruit and apricot flavors, but the wine is a little light, shows a bit of alcohol and drops off on the finish. B+/B.
Some pics for your viewing pleasure.
The group.