TN: A few Saturday night: Huet, Juge, Faurie.

Brad Kane

Brad Kane
A few wines from a dinner Saturday night with a visiting Frank McCormick and his better half, Deanna.

2008 Huet- Vouvray Demi-Sec “Le Mont”
Just gorgeous, brilliant wine. I’ve loved this wine since I tried it at the domaine a year ago and I’ve had it about eight times since. This bottle seemed to have been a little fuller than most of the others, with vibrant quince fruit leading the way with chalky mineral, yellow and white flowers and hints of bee’s wax. Long and full with brilliant acidity. I liken the ’08 to a slightly lighter ’02, with maybe more pronounced quince and a less dense mineral character. Really special stuff. Low A.

1999 Marcel Juge- Cornas “Cuvée SC”
I was stunned by how fruit forward and clean this wine was. The wine is awash in sweet raspberry and cherry fruit, with beef blood and black pepper as backup singers. It’s smooth and harmonious throughout the palate and supported by a nice acid framework. With some air a strong stony character came to the forefront as did more of a garrigue character. Beautiful wine. Low A.

1991 Bernard Faurie- Hermitage “Le Meal”
This did not start off well as there was an overwhelming pine/menthol/mint character on the nose and palate. Thankfully, with extended airing, it receded and high-toned red fruit took its place. It’s a lighter, more feminine wine than the Juge, with brighter, more obvious structure. After awhile the fruit did grow a little more copious and some green olive and herbal notes came up. A-/B+.
 
originally posted by Brad Kane:
2008 Huet- Vouvray Demi-Sec “Le Mont”
Just gorgeous, brilliant wine. I’ve loved this wine since I tried it at the domaine a year ago and I’ve had it about eight times since. This bottle seemed to have been a little fuller than most of the others, with vibrant quince fruit leading the way with chalky mineral, yellow and white flowers and hints of bee’s wax. Long and full with brilliant acidity. I liken the ’08 to a slightly lighter ’02, with maybe more pronounced quince and a less dense mineral character. Really special stuff. Low A.

Alas, this was one of my several disappointments at the winery last October. It seemed just a bit too lush, or full, as you put it, with the acidity totally outgunned, unlike yours. Maybe I was in a bad mood and didn't realize it.
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
originally posted by Brad Kane:
2008 Huet- Vouvray Demi-Sec “Le Mont”

Alas, this was one of my several disappointments at the winery last October. It seemed just a bit too lush, or full, as you put it, with the acidity totally outgunned, unlike yours. Maybe I was in a bad mood and didn't realize it.

I liked this a lot when it was new, and bought large quantities. I have one in the fridge, and you guys are making me nervous. Will report back if I have a chance to drink it.
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
originally posted by Brad Kane:
2008 Huet- Vouvray Demi-Sec “Le Mont”
Just gorgeous, brilliant wine. I’ve loved this wine since I tried it at the domaine a year ago and I’ve had it about eight times since. This bottle seemed to have been a little fuller than most of the others, with vibrant quince fruit leading the way with chalky mineral, yellow and white flowers and hints of bee’s wax. Long and full with brilliant acidity. I liken the ’08 to a slightly lighter ’02, with maybe more pronounced quince and a less dense mineral character. Really special stuff. Low A.

Alas, this was one of my several disappointments at the winery last October. It seemed just a bit too lush, or full, as you put it, with the acidity totally outgunned, unlike yours. Maybe I was in a bad mood and didn't realize it.

When I originally saw your write-up, I honestly thought you confused the '08 with the '09. The '09 Le Haut-Lieu Demi-Sec is fat and alcoholic. A real disappointment, imho. Even the assistant winemaker expressed disappointment with it when I was there. However, while this bottle of '08 Le Mont demi may have been more lush than previous bottles, it's not remotely fat. The acidity is vivid in the '08, so I honestly don't know where you're coming from. You've been the only Chenin drinker I know that hasn't loved the '08, except for a couple of people on Berserkers who seem to think the '08's from Huet and Chidaine are flawed, but I think they're wacky. Here's a link to that thread: http://www.wineberserkers.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=42438
 
Interesting, but that thread seems to be more about flaws, when they just struck me as too, I don't know, soft, like the Roman Empire before it collapsed. Maybe I just don't like these guys with baby fat & pudgy cheeks; older Huets have never let me down.

Then again, between you and me (don't tell anyone I said this; if you say I did, I will deny it), when I mentioned my Huet disappointments, François Pinon hinted that climate change is making some previously optimal vineyards overoptimal, while previously suboptimal ones, like some of his, were only now coming into their own.
 
I recall your notes on this point, Oswaldo: they provide an excellent reason to keep trying bottles from different producers. I've been inching towards Huet's secs lately, away from the demis - and experimenting with Chidaine.

I've been sitting on some 08 LM demi, too; meant to open one when I got them, but keep thinking they'll be much better in 15 years. Now I'll have to try one.
 
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
I recall your notes on this point, Oswaldo: they provide an excellent reason to keep trying bottles from different producers. I've been inching towards Huet's secs lately, away from the demis - and experimenting with Chidaine.

I've been sitting on some 08 LM demi, too; meant to open one when I got them, but keep thinking they'll be much better in 15 years. Now I'll have to try one.

I've always loved the title of that movie:

51VKT8RF6RL__SL500_AA300_.jpg
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
I recall your notes on this point, Oswaldo: they provide an excellent reason to keep trying bottles from different producers. I've been inching towards Huet's secs lately, away from the demis - and experimenting with Chidaine.

I've been sitting on some 08 LM demi, too; meant to open one when I got them, but keep thinking they'll be much better in 15 years. Now I'll have to try one.

I've always loved the title of that movie:

51VKT8RF6RL__SL500_AA300_.jpg
Ever notice that in the south of England, there's Sussex, there was Wessex in the west, Essex is in the east, there was Middlesex in the center, but no Nossex in the north?
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
originally posted by Brad Kane:
2008 Huet- Vouvray Demi-Sec “Le Mont”

Alas, this was one of my several disappointments at the winery last October. It seemed just a bit too lush, or full, as you put it, with the acidity totally outgunned, unlike yours. Maybe I was in a bad mood and didn't realize it.

I liked this a lot when it was new, and bought large quantities. I have one in the fridge, and you guys are making me nervous. Will report back if I have a chance to drink it.

Remember the discussion with Noel when we tried the 2008s at the salon? The malic/tartaric ratio was abnormally high, although the acidity was in the normal range, thus the perceived acidity was higher. I loved the wines then and have had nothing but good experiences since.
 
originally posted by VLM:

Remember the discussion with Noel when we tried the 2008s at the salon? The malic/tartaric ratio was abnormally high, although the acidity was in the normal range, thus the perceived acidity was higher. I loved the wines then and have had nothing but good experiences since.
Absolutely. Low perceived acidity was not the problem with almost any 2008 in Vouvray.

No, Brad likes the wine and Oswaldo doesn't. Aren't you nervous?

I'll report back.
 
originally posted by SFJoe:

No, Brad likes the wine and Oswaldo doesn't. Aren't you nervous?

I've always liked high acidity as long as there was sugar to back it up, in whites. You should know that by now.
 
Brilliant is a great descriptor...I was blown away by how it showed for such a pup. The acidity bordered on mouth-watering. Kind of a Homer meets Doughnut moment. I haven't purchased much Huet since the 02....I really need to change that. Clean as a whistle too. Thanks for sharing.
 
I just finished up a 2009 Huet Clos du Bourg sec and the acidity was fine. Can someone elaborate on he perceived problems with the 2009 Huet vintage?
 
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