California Dreamin' (Part 1)

MLipton

Mark Lipton
As parents of a school-age child, we have learned to take advantage of his Spring Breaks for travel. This year, his Spring Break was spent in the Bay Area to visit our friends and relations out there. Many of these folks take our visits as excuses to open up their long-awaited treasures (either that, or stuff they can't get anyone else to drink). A bottle of 1998 Tinhorn Creek Cab Franc (Okanagan) proved to be surprisingly tasty, with a leafy, herbal quality atop dark berry fruit and firm acidity. The bottle of 1997 Staglin Cabernet Sauvignon was much less interesting, with the usual blackberry/graphite thing, soft and glossy and still primary. Ho hum.

A visit to our friends Bruce and Joy is always great fun, but Joy (aka Queen of the Mailing Lists) loves to pull out older bottles of cult wines for us to try. On this occasion, we got to try 2003 Aubert Chardonnay "Lauren" with a nose full of tropical fruit and a rich, viscous mouthfeel complete with low acidity. That was followed by a pair of Pinot Noirs, the first of which, the 2004 Aubert Sonoma Coast smelled of pine needles and sappy red fruit with a surprisingly tart sense to its very deep fruit. The second wine, the 2002 Williams-Selyem Westside Road Neighbors clocked in at 14.3% ABV and was huge, oaky, soft and hot. Yuck. We had a great dinner and much fun with our friends, but the wines weren't the highlight.

Jean and I took one day out of our NoCal swing to venture up to Sonoma for a day of R&R. Of course, R&R in Sonoma must include a few stops at wineries of interest, so we found ourselves in the early afternoon visiting the operations at Wind Gap and Arnot-Roberts in Forestville. At Wind Gap, we were hosted by Susan, their marketing director (Pax was in LA that day) who guided us through their current releases.

2009 Chardonnay James Berry Vyd - somewhat muted citrus, butter, dry
2008 Chardonnay Yuen (James Berry/Brosseau) - apples and distinct mineral notes, crisp and dry with a slightly buttery finish
2009 Pinot Noir Griffin's Lair - bright, juicy cranberry, lactic, light on the palate with a long finish
2008 Syrah Sonoma Coast - savory, dark fruit, well structured but tight
2008 G/S/M Rana - somewhat hot, meaty, red fruit with firm acidity
2008 Syrah Griffin's Lair - seaweed and soy sauce, dark fruit, plenty of structure
2005 Agharta black label - soy sauce, black fruit, huge, tannic

The talk here was about sustainability as in the use of lighter glass bottles. The highlight of this visit was getting to see their concrete egg fermenters.

wine_eggs.jpg
The Griffin's Lair vineyard was proudly proclaimed to be the coldest Syrah vineyard in California, apparently acing out the competing claim of the Peay vineyard (much talk about the inversion layer over Peay that involved Duncan from Arnot-Roberts, too). The wines were quite interesting. Of the two Chardonnays, our preference was clearly with the Yuen. We were quite impressed with the Pinot Noir and also liked the Sonoma Coast Syrah. The Rana, like many CA GSM blends, left me a bit cold. Susan explained that the Agharta label is used for wines deemed too big for the Wind Gap label and such was this wine. Big and brawny, it may turn into something very nice with sufficient age, but I was unsure whether it had enough acidity remain fresh.

Mark Lipton
 
originally posted by Brézème:
Fuck, 3 nomblot concrete eggs at 5000 each on this picture. I wish I could afford these...

Some more details: no epoxy lining on them, so probably tartrate washed interior as Steve Edmunds has done with his. As nice as Susan the Marketing Director was, though, she wasn't able to answer these sorts of questions. These eggs were made in Northern California, Éric, so I don't know if Nomblot or not. There was also a ceramic egg (with epoxy lining) from France not shown in our photo.

Mark Lipton
 
originally posted by MLipton:
California Dreamin' (Part 1)A bottle of 1998 Tinhorn Creek Cab Franc (Okanagan) proved to be surprisingly tasty, with a leafy, herbal quality atop dark berry fruit and firm acidity. The bottle of 1997 Staglin Cabernet Sauvignon was much less interesting, with the usual blackberry/graphite thing, soft and glossy and still primary. Ho hum.

A bottle of '98 Tinhorn Creek merlot (of all things) was my first "sit up and take notice" Okanagan wine. The cab franc is the best of their lineup, IMHO.

So, you didn't get to taste any of trousseau gris from Wind Gap? I've got some on order, I'm anxious to try it.
 
So, you didn't get to taste any of trousseau gris from Wind Gap? I've got some on order, I'm anxious to try it.

Alas, no. They were in the process of bottling it when we were there and that was one of the reasons I came to visit. We're getting some, too.

Mark Lipton
 
originally posted by fillay:
originally posted by MLipton:
California Dreamin' (Part 1)A bottle of 1998 Tinhorn Creek Cab Franc (Okanagan) proved to be surprisingly tasty, with a leafy, herbal quality atop dark berry fruit and firm acidity. The bottle of 1997 Staglin Cabernet Sauvignon was much less interesting, with the usual blackberry/graphite thing, soft and glossy and still primary. Ho hum.
So, you didn't get to taste any of trousseau gris from Wind Gap? I've got some on order, I'm anxious to try it.
Wait. We did taste it. Last Saturday. Right? You even brought it. Or do you mean the latest version?
 
originally posted by lars makie:
Wait. We did taste it. Last Saturday. Right? You even brought it. Or do you mean the latest version?

That was the skin contact version, "Piccolo Bastardo." The new release is vinified more like a regular white from what I understand.
 
originally posted by fillay:
originally posted by lars makie:
Wait. We did taste it. Last Saturday. Right? You even brought it. Or do you mean the latest version?

That was the skin contact version, "Piccolo Bastardo." The new release is vinified more like a regular white from what I understand.
Ah, interesting. I see. Are they still doing the two bottlings or are not doing the skin-contact anymore?
 
originally posted by Bill Lundstrom:
any details on your visit to arnot-roberts?

Upcoming, Bill. That's why this was labeled Part 1. I'll probably just add my other notes onto this thread and edit the title to reflect the change.

Mark Lipton
 
Mark,

I don't sense great-leaps-of-joy from these Wind Gap notes, but perhaps that's travel fatigue(?). Those are cool looking eggs, though, just in time for Easter!

other Mark
 
originally posted by MarkS:
Mark,

I don't sense great-leaps-of-joy from these Wind Gap notes, but perhaps that's travel fatigue(?). Those are cool looking eggs, though, just in time for Easter!

other Mark

Probably it's my overly cryptic writing style at work. We really liked the Pinot Noir and Sonoma Coast Syrah very much and the Yuen Chardonnay was quite interesting, too. If there was no "wow" experience there, it was likely because there was no Trousseau Gris available to taste.

Mark Lipton

p.s. Wait for the Arnot-Roberts report.
 
originally posted by MarkS:
Mark,

I don't sense great-leaps-of-joy from these Wind Gap notes, but perhaps that's travel fatigue(?). Those are cool looking eggs, though, just in time for Easter!

other Mark

He's one of the cool kids, he can't seem overly impressed by anything...
 
I don't want to appear jaded myself, but the Trousseau gris was fun but not mindblowing. To be fair, I don't think they mean it to be explosive.
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
I don't want to appear jaded myself, but the Trousseau gris was fun but not mindblowing. To be fair, I don't think they mean it to be explosive.

Hey look at me, I'm making wine from trousseau gris!
 
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