In the cellar (April 16, 2011)

originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Joel Stewart:
And "victuals from upstairs" means there's like a deli on the ground level?

Something like that
Working from this list...

Every time or nearly every time:
- Amy's Bread makes wonderful breads in many varieties
- Dickson's is the source of the wonderful roast beef, pates, rillettes, etc.
- Lucy's Whey sells mostly artisianal US cheeses

Sometimes, or for non-cellar food shopping:
- Buon Italia has a stand that sells hot food but it's not so good; the shop, however, brings in foodstuffs from Italy (I went on Saturday to buy Bronte pistachio cream)
- Chelsea Market Baskets has a wide selection of chocolates and jams, some of which are good
- Chelsea Wine Vault has an OK selection of wine, really, but I never bother to buy there; I think they are the owners of the cellars
- Fat Witch makes brownies, always too sweet
- Jacques Torres is a famous chocolatier and his stuff is good; I buy often
- L'Arte del Gelato has a store in Greenwich Village that is always splendid; this outpost is a bit hit-or-miss
- Manhattan Fruit Exchange is a gigantic green-grocer; I'm rarely in the mood to carry groceries home from here because I'm usually carrying wine but it would be worth it for some things
- The Lobster Place is extremely good; they offer both raw and prepared foods; Jay is sometimes kind enough to buy from here for our visits downstairs
 
I don't love Amy's breads, mostly.

Manhattan Fruit Exchange is actually exemplary, but vegetables do get heavy.
 
but if you walk around the stand at Buon Italia, you will get an unmatched cup of espresso
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

Causse Marines 2009 Marcillac - spicy, licoricey, crisp, a real change-up from the usual cups; definitely better with food and, tonight, anyway, best with the roasty-yeasty crust of the black olive bread
I have struggled a bit with this one. There is a green note that somehow doesn't work for me. Can anyone explain it to me?
It's just a part of the grape's character. I've never had a marcillac that doesn't have it, even some strangely spoofed ones. If you don't like this version you may not like the grape at all.
 
originally posted by Cory Cartwright:
originally posted by SFJoe:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

Causse Marines 2009 Marcillac - spicy, licoricey, crisp, a real change-up from the usual cups; definitely better with food and, tonight, anyway, best with the roasty-yeasty crust of the black olive bread
I have struggled a bit with this one. There is a green note that somehow doesn't work for me. Can anyone explain it to me?
It's just a part of the grape's character. I've never had a marcillac that doesn't have it, even some strangely spoofed ones. If you don't like this version you may not like the grape at all.

I get a an herbal, green olive, weedy note in just about every fer servadou/braucol I can think of (not all that many). I like it, but I can see how it could put people off.
 
originally posted by Cory Cartwright:
originally posted by SFJoe:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

Causse Marines 2009 Marcillac - spicy, licoricey, crisp, a real change-up from the usual cups; definitely better with food and, tonight, anyway, best with the roasty-yeasty crust of the black olive bread
I have struggled a bit with this one. There is a green note that somehow doesn't work for me. Can anyone explain it to me?
It's just a part of the grape's character. I've never had a marcillac that doesn't have it, even some strangely spoofed ones. If you don't like this version you may not like the grape at all.

Spoofed Marcillac - now I have heard it all.
 
originally posted by Scott Kraft:
originally posted by SFJoe:
CounterpointI don't love Amy's breads, mostly.

Hippie bread. Can't stand it. Apologies, Jeff.

Back when the first opened on 9th avenue around the corner from my apartment they were a godsend. Sure there are a few better places nowadays, but I still have a great fondness for their semolina with black sesame seeds. And their layer cakes are very good - moist and flavorful.
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

Causse Marines 2009 Marcillac - spicy, licoricey, crisp, a real change-up from the usual cups; definitely better with food and, tonight, anyway, best with the roasty-yeasty crust of the black olive bread
I have struggled a bit with this one. There is a green note that somehow doesn't work for me. Can anyone explain it to me?

Fer Servadou, aka braucol, aka "mansois" in Marcillac. Paul Strang thinks it's a relative of Cabernet Franc, which might explain it. I'm a fan of "Lo Sang Del Pais," myself.
 
originally posted by Cliff:

I get a an herbal, green olive, weedy note in just about every fer servadou/braucol I can think of (not all that many). I like it, but I can see how it could put people off.

Yup. I find it curious that someone who appreciates Cabernet Franc from the Loire could find the "green" notes in Fer Servadou objectionable, but de gustibus and all that. For my part, that's much of the attraction of Marcillac.

Mark Lipton
 
originally posted by MLipton:

Yup. I find it curious that someone who appreciates Cabernet Franc from the Loire could find the "green" notes in Fer Servadou objectionable, but de gustibus and all that.

I think it could relate to what else is (or isn't) present in the wine in addition to the herbal crunch.
 
Marcillac, something I tried forever to sell or to buy in NY until a then-newish Wine Traditions finally made Teulier available and broke the ice, is not always green any more than cabernet franc or mencía is always green. Speaking of Cros/Teulier, his wine of choice is the old-vines version, but the basic is still cheap and very nice.

Try retasting the 2009 Causses Marines, which I haven't seen yet, in a month or two. New wines from here can change a lot in that time, like many other things, but it's especially true here. The Marcillac vineyards are newly acquired, so maybe they're not fully brought into the kind of culture the owners would like. But they're on the steep slopes, so the wine will have that initial reserve I mentioned. If you want to see greenish Marcillac, you'll usually find it at Matha. Here your something green is a component that should integrate before too long.

My early reference for this place was a grower named Costes, who I haven't ever found here. There was one other I have never seen again since the early '90s.

Anyway, patience on the CM. This is an exciting grower.
 
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