It had been awhile since I last got together with some old Rioja fiends. Too long, in fact. I was able to remedy that situation last week when Peter Hirdt, Chris Kravitz, Bob Cunningham, Dan Tisch, Paul Jaouen, Jeff Filippi and Jay Miller and I gathered at Il Corso on Cinco de Mayo to taste through some classic, old school Rioja. Sure beats Corona and a lime!
2009 Navarro Vineyards- Muscat Blanc Estate Bottled
Jay just got a shipment of Navarro in and opted to bring this as a starter. It's quite floral and full of peach and apricot, as Muscat ought to be. Dry, but with a thick mouthfeel. Pleasant, if a bit simple and ponderous. It picks up a bitter note on the finish and shows a little bit of alcohol. B.
1989 Marqués de Murrieta- Rioja Reserva Ygay Blanco
Typically oxidative, with strong oak/coconut flavors and aromas. Initially quite tight, but by the end of the evening the wine came together nicely. The oak became much better integrated and pineapple and lemon cream flavors came up. Good acidity with a touch of typical volatility. I think Chris mentioned he paid something like $5 for this on release. B+.
1955 Bodegas Bilbainas- Rioja Vendimia Especial
I bought this because I really loved the label. It's one of my favorite wine labels of all time. Just so classic looking. I honestly wasn't expecting much from the wine, but it showed very nicely. It's a beautiful youthful red color with intense aromas of freshly brewed coffee. With air some red fruit, meat and leather came up. On the palate, initially it was rather sharp. Just strongly acidic with not much fruit to support it. But, as is the case with many older Rioja, it pulls a phoenix act as airing saw this wine come together nicely with the structure harmonizing and become nicely elegant. Plummy red fruit came to the forefront and sweetened up. The wine than seemed to go into a shell again before opening up yet again. Lovely. B+/A-.
1981 Cune- Rioja Gran Reserva Imperial
Man, is this good. It's the most youthful and primary showing I've had with this wine, but everything is there. Aromatically it's rather sealed up, but the palate is chock full of goodness. The fruit is rich and black and mixed with iron, meat and spice. Impeccably balanced with a nice purity to the fruit. Miles to go on this one, but it's certainly delicious now. Wine of the night. A.
1970 Cune- Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Real
This, too, is showing quite youthfully. It's not as open and flamboyant as a half bottle I had about a year and a half ago, but is a bit more reserved and showing classic Rioja flavors and aromas of red cherries, earth, leather, worn wood with a hit of orange citrus. The red fruit drives the wine, however. It's sweet and fresh and with air, the wine took on a beautiful silky texture. A/A-.
1970 La Rioja Alta- Rioja Gran Reserva 904
Corked. NR.
1970 Bodegas Riojanas- Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Albina
Shows much more maturity than the Viña Real and is just a classic, old school Rioja. There's a whiff of stinky cheese to start before it blows off to show worn wood, earth and cherry aromas. It's soft and resolved on the palate with like flavors as aromas. More earth and leather dominated as the cherry fruit is starting to recede. A touch short on the finish. Outclassed tonight, but a pleasure to drink. B+/A-.
1964 Bodegas Riojanas- Rioja Gran Reserva Monte Real
Corked. A real bummer as this is normally a stunning wine and would've competed for WOTN honors. NR.
1964 Bodegas Franco-Españolas- Rioja Gran Reserva Excelso
Fairly similar to the Viña Albina in that it's a nicely resolved old Rioja that's more dominated by earthy/leathery elements than by fruit at this stage. One definitely gets the feeling of cozying up in an old leather chair with this one. It's resolved with caramel, worn bannister, leather and tartish cherry fruit. Plenty of orange citrus and a little VA. The finish falls off a bit. Drink up. B+.
1976 López de Heredia- Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Bosconia
When this bottle is on, it can be stunning. In typical maddening LdH style, this bottle is not on. I've had more off bottles than good bottles of the '76. I think that goes for the '73, too, now that I think of it. Rather devoid of fruit, but full of matchsticks and VA. Earth and leather are in the forefront and the acidity is a little harsh. Not corked, just bottle variation.B/B-.
1978 López de Heredia- Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Bosconia
Bill Lawrence wasn't feeling well and canceled at the last minute, but generously sent this bottle along. I was curious to try it as while I've had the '78 Tondonia a number of times, never a favorite of mine, I can't recall having had the Bosconia. Thankfully, it lacks the dead Mr. Ed character I always find in the Tondonia. That said, while pleasant, there are no fireworks here. Fairly straightforward earth, leather and cherry flavors and aromas with a bit of coconut. The acidity is just a touch high. Simple and not going to get any better, imo. B/B+.
2009 Navarro Vineyards- Muscat Blanc Estate Bottled
Jay just got a shipment of Navarro in and opted to bring this as a starter. It's quite floral and full of peach and apricot, as Muscat ought to be. Dry, but with a thick mouthfeel. Pleasant, if a bit simple and ponderous. It picks up a bitter note on the finish and shows a little bit of alcohol. B.
1989 Marqués de Murrieta- Rioja Reserva Ygay Blanco
Typically oxidative, with strong oak/coconut flavors and aromas. Initially quite tight, but by the end of the evening the wine came together nicely. The oak became much better integrated and pineapple and lemon cream flavors came up. Good acidity with a touch of typical volatility. I think Chris mentioned he paid something like $5 for this on release. B+.
1955 Bodegas Bilbainas- Rioja Vendimia Especial
I bought this because I really loved the label. It's one of my favorite wine labels of all time. Just so classic looking. I honestly wasn't expecting much from the wine, but it showed very nicely. It's a beautiful youthful red color with intense aromas of freshly brewed coffee. With air some red fruit, meat and leather came up. On the palate, initially it was rather sharp. Just strongly acidic with not much fruit to support it. But, as is the case with many older Rioja, it pulls a phoenix act as airing saw this wine come together nicely with the structure harmonizing and become nicely elegant. Plummy red fruit came to the forefront and sweetened up. The wine than seemed to go into a shell again before opening up yet again. Lovely. B+/A-.
1981 Cune- Rioja Gran Reserva Imperial
Man, is this good. It's the most youthful and primary showing I've had with this wine, but everything is there. Aromatically it's rather sealed up, but the palate is chock full of goodness. The fruit is rich and black and mixed with iron, meat and spice. Impeccably balanced with a nice purity to the fruit. Miles to go on this one, but it's certainly delicious now. Wine of the night. A.
1970 Cune- Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Real
This, too, is showing quite youthfully. It's not as open and flamboyant as a half bottle I had about a year and a half ago, but is a bit more reserved and showing classic Rioja flavors and aromas of red cherries, earth, leather, worn wood with a hit of orange citrus. The red fruit drives the wine, however. It's sweet and fresh and with air, the wine took on a beautiful silky texture. A/A-.
1970 La Rioja Alta- Rioja Gran Reserva 904
Corked. NR.
1970 Bodegas Riojanas- Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Albina
Shows much more maturity than the Viña Real and is just a classic, old school Rioja. There's a whiff of stinky cheese to start before it blows off to show worn wood, earth and cherry aromas. It's soft and resolved on the palate with like flavors as aromas. More earth and leather dominated as the cherry fruit is starting to recede. A touch short on the finish. Outclassed tonight, but a pleasure to drink. B+/A-.
1964 Bodegas Riojanas- Rioja Gran Reserva Monte Real
Corked. A real bummer as this is normally a stunning wine and would've competed for WOTN honors. NR.
1964 Bodegas Franco-Españolas- Rioja Gran Reserva Excelso
Fairly similar to the Viña Albina in that it's a nicely resolved old Rioja that's more dominated by earthy/leathery elements than by fruit at this stage. One definitely gets the feeling of cozying up in an old leather chair with this one. It's resolved with caramel, worn bannister, leather and tartish cherry fruit. Plenty of orange citrus and a little VA. The finish falls off a bit. Drink up. B+.
1976 López de Heredia- Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Bosconia
When this bottle is on, it can be stunning. In typical maddening LdH style, this bottle is not on. I've had more off bottles than good bottles of the '76. I think that goes for the '73, too, now that I think of it. Rather devoid of fruit, but full of matchsticks and VA. Earth and leather are in the forefront and the acidity is a little harsh. Not corked, just bottle variation.B/B-.
1978 López de Heredia- Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Bosconia
Bill Lawrence wasn't feeling well and canceled at the last minute, but generously sent this bottle along. I was curious to try it as while I've had the '78 Tondonia a number of times, never a favorite of mine, I can't recall having had the Bosconia. Thankfully, it lacks the dead Mr. Ed character I always find in the Tondonia. That said, while pleasant, there are no fireworks here. Fairly straightforward earth, leather and cherry flavors and aromas with a bit of coconut. The acidity is just a touch high. Simple and not going to get any better, imo. B/B+.