TN: An impromptu dinner at Christine's with Suzanne, Kate and Jay.

Brad Kane

Brad Kane
Christine was free for dinner and eager to cook, though was under an intense pollen attack and dared not leave the confines of her apartment. Having never suffered from hay fever, I volunteered to source ingredients and headed out to Chinatown and bought some incredibly lively, first of the season soft shell crabs, fresh killed chickens and pea shoots. Christine got busy with one of her best caramelized onion tarts to date, which included bacon and carrots that had been braised in duck stock and an olive oil and lemon ring cake. Suzanne Camhi, her daughter, Kate and Jay Miller arrived and a fun time was had by all.

2002 Huët- Vouvray Pétillant Brut
Showing more open than previous bottles and drinking very nicely. The usual quince and mineral with a fine bead. Crisp and lively with good length. Always a nice way to kick things off. B+/A-.

2009 Foreau- Vouvray Demi-Sec Domaine du Clos Naudin
Showing a bit rounder and more accessible than when tried at the domaine in 4/10. This bottle got a little too chilled in the freezer, but not enough ice had formed to hurt the acidity, thankfully. It's certainly more plump than the vivid '08, but this is a beautiful wine and is not at all deficient in acidity. It was a little clumsy at first, but it really came into focus nicely with extended airing. Right now it's showing all yellow, quince, flowers, sweet citrus. Just lovely. A-.

2009 A. et P. de Villaine- Bourgogne Rouge “La Digoine”
Shows an absolutely beautiful nose. Just so fragrant and perfumey, though in a primary way as there's of course no secondary development at this young age. Cherry and spice aromas that would be quite a lure if dabbed on a lady's neck. On the palate it has youthful sweet cherry fruit, nice spice and earth notes. The structure pretty upfront at this stage. Good material here for further development and improvement. Solid B+.

2008 Armand Rousseau- Ruchottes-Chambertin “Clos de Ruchottes”
A darker, richer and meatier wine than the Digoine in every aspect. There's a good core of dark cherry fruit here with some extract. Taut structure. Needs time, but this is good stuff. A-.

2006 Domaine d'Eugénie Vosne-Romanée
Muted on the nose. There's a bit more wood on the palate than I'd like with light red fruits. It's a bit lightweight and diffuse on the palate. Nothing to get excited over. B.

2005 Alain Verset- Cornas
Apparently, this wine was purchased by a store thinking it was Noël, not his nephew. The nephew has some learning to do. The wine does have a wonderful nose, full of raspberry, flowers, licorice and a hint of meat, but, unfortunately, it doesn't follow through on the palate, where the fruit is much less in abundance and the acidity is a bit out of whack. Still, while a bit clunky and truncated, it does offer up some nice Cornas characteristics. B/B+.

2006 Navarro Vineyards Gewürztraminer Cluster Select Late Harvest
A pleasant end to the evening. Intensely sweet and honeyed with Gewurzy flavors leaning more towards apricot and citrus rather than lychee. Nice gingery note to it with just enough acidity to prevent it from being relegated to pancakes. Not particularly complex, but still quite enjoyable. A-/B+.

Some pics from the evening. I didn't take many and forgot to take one of the chicken and pea shoots and the wine.

Jay.
Jay-1.jpg
Suzanne.
Suzanne.jpg
Kate.
Kate.jpg
Caramelized onion tart with bacon and carrots braised in duck stock.
Onion_tart_with_bacon_and_confited_carrots.jpg
The season's first soft shell crabs.
Softshells.jpg
Olive oil and lemon cake.
Olive_oil_and_lemon_cake.jpg
 
You know, I'd say '02 given that you also remarked about how open it was and, even so, it did have more steely structure than any '05 I've had. I'll make the switch.
 
Yummy crabs~!

Brad, did you try Alain's 2003 Cornas yet? I wondered how it compared to the 2005 (yeah, I bought both)?
 
I haven't had good onion tart since I lived in Freiburg; the thought makes my heart go pitter-patter.

We opened an 09 Villaine Montots recently that was civil the first day but killer the fourth.

Thanks for the notes.
 
I know you said that you're drinking Burgundy now but two in the same evening?
We had soft shell crabs during the week dipped in a litle panko & sauted in clarified butter. One of my favorite things.
Nice to know I can serve Burgundy when you're in town. It's about time your palate started to develop, at least a little.
 
I thought you didn't like sparkling wine Brad? Is it only Huet? (Not a bad exception to make, in any category).
 
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
I haven't had good onion tart since I lived in Freiburg; the thought makes my heart go pitter-patter.

We opened an 09 Villaine Montots recently that was civil the first day but killer the fourth.

Thanks for the notes.

Huh, good to know. I was disappointed by the Montots but I only had it on the first evening.
 
originally posted by MarkS:

Brad, did you try Alain's 2003 Cornas yet? I wondered how it compared to the 2005 (yeah, I bought both)?

Hey Mark-

Haven't tried the '03. This was my first go with Alain. Honestly, given the vintage, I expected more.
 
originally posted by Lou Kessler:
It's a miracleI know you said that you're drinking Burgundy now but two in the same evening?
We had soft shell crabs during the week dipped in a litle panko & sauted in clarified butter. One of my favorite things.
Nice to know I can serve Burgundy when you're in town. It's about time your palate started to develop, at least a little.

Would you believe I've had more than two in a night?

I'm finding I like DRC, Mugneret, Ponsot, Leroy, Dujac and Lignier, so feel free to open any of those. :-)

Still not much of a fan of white Burgs, even though I've rated some well. Quite simply, there hasn't been a white Burgundy I've tried in my entire life that I'd prefer to drink over say an '08 Demi-Sec.

Btw, if you ever make NY in the spring/summer, instead of your usual fall trip, I'd be happy to make you as many soft shells as you can eat.
 
originally posted by Brad Kane:
originally posted by Lou Kessler:
It's a miracleI know you said that you're drinking Burgundy now but two in the same evening?
We had soft shell crabs during the week dipped in a litle panko & sauted in clarified butter. One of my favorite things.
Nice to know I can serve Burgundy when you're in town. It's about time your palate started to develop, at least a little.

Would you believe I've had more than two in a night?

I'm finding I like DRC, Mugneret, Ponsot, Leroy, Dujac and Lignier, so feel free to open any of those. :-)

Still not much of a fan of white Burgs, even though I've rated some well. Quite simply, there hasn't been a white Burgundy I've tried in my entire life that I'd prefer to drink over say an '08 Demi-Sec.

Btw, if you ever make NY in the spring/summer, instead of your usual fall trip, I'd be happy to make you as many soft shells as you can eat.
Shit get real, your choice in burgs tells me that you'll need a night job and have to cultivate a better class of friends then the group on this board. Do you have the burgs you "like" in great numbers as an integral part of your wine stash? If not do you expect to schnorr your way among Burg loving friends???? This is important, people want to know.
 
originally posted by Lou Kessler:

Shit get real, your choice in burgs tells me that you'll need a night job and have to cultivate a better class of friends then the group on this board. Do you have the burgs you "like" in great numbers as an integral part of your wine stash? If not do you expect to schnorr your way among Burg loving friends???? This is important, people want to know.

Well, he also liked the Digoine.
 
I like Burgs when I can have them. I expect to schnorr my way among Burg loving friends since I have few in my cellar. I have mixed success in this. But I do live near Maureen.
 
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
I like Burgs when I can have them. I expect to schnorr my way among Burg loving friends since I have few in my cellar. I have mixed success in this. But I do live near Maureen.

and you are welcome to drink my burgs any time! you too, brad - since I know you turn your nose up at the bordeaux I offer you.

My dad was in town for a long weekend this past one and we managed to eat softshells three times between dinner thursday and lunch saturday. I highly recommend the softshell/escarole/onion ring paninni at Two Amys (we swapped the mayo for the salsa verde) and the softshells amandine at lavandou (really a great plate of food they served - restaurant has improved lately).
 
The soft shells are ridiculously cheap in Chinatown. The place on Chrystie Street Christine and I got ours was selling them for $20 a dozen for jumbos, $17 a dozen for Large and $13.50 for small. I've never seen fresher ones. Incredibly lively. I think large were about $4 each at Citarella on Mother's Day.
 
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