Filippo Mattia Ginanni
Filippo Mattia Ginanni
It was a great weekend with the Miss away in Romewith the future in-laws:
On Friday, I indulged into a Ulysse Collin Blanc de Blanc Champagne, from the 2006 vintage, this resembled more of a nice white burgundy than a champagne from the Congy (Aube). As usual I flash decanted and it eveloved nicely with tones of crushed almond, wet stones, some brioche but also with some yellow fruit (sorry but can't defined it better). It was a perfect match with a Lobster BLT (a much needed recharge before my Sat half marathon training).
On Saturday with the Match we kicked it off with 2 bottles of 2009 Zilliken Rausch Kabinett lovely indeed and very intriguing. We moved onto NV Pierre Peters Blanc de Blanc(s) Champagne I bought this a while ago (say 2 years) and the extended cellaring proved a good idea as some early bottles of this were a little disjointed. This one was nicely integrated and a good pair with salmon tartare and onion creme fraiche. With goat cheese, asparagus, lemon zest and pink peppercors I served some 2007 Pascal Cotat Monte Damnes that was in wonderful shape though it would have benefited from a crisper dish. The laser like acidity and the impressive backbone were not ideal with the food. The other 11 bottles should age gracefully. 2007 Foillard Morgon Cuvee 3.14 was a profound example of Gamay that deserves to be drunk on its own in order to follow its evolution rather than rush through it as a side with a steak tartate.
With the Ginger Pig Cote du Boeuf (1.2kg for each rib to be shared by 2 guests) and Jersey Royals cooked in Goose Fat, roasted aubgergines with garlic and mint, 1992 Cheveillon NSG 1er Vaucrains was gamey, wild, intense yet fully mature and everybody agreed was the best wine but as we progressed through the meat the 1996 Cheveillon NSG 1er Vaucrains shined through and its fresheness was evident to everyone. Sometimes off vintages are much better in heat of the moment with food and other wines should be reserved for afterthoughts.
With cheeses was the turn of Tuborg Påskebryg , brewed in Denmark for Easter only. A fresh fresh ale that is much lighter than the winter counterpart. On the other hand 2009 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese #15 was very difficutl to read as the Domprobst is usually very closed at this early stage plus the salinity of the vineyard and the purity of 2009 at the Auslese level were not given away any of the sweetness that you would expect from such a bottling/praedikat. A Spatlese in the guise of an Auslese.
On the other hand the Chef's privilege bottle (tasted only by myself over the course of the meal with leftovers left to the guests) was 2007 Fritz Haag Braunberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Spatlese #14 Auction a magnificent wine coming into its prime drinking window. Almond and white peach and a touch of petrol were there as you would expect from the BJS and the density was extremely well support by an amazing acidity. If this is not the Spatlese of the vintage (some would argue in the guise of an Auslese), well show me another example.
On Sunday, to wrap it up a lovely bottle of 2009 Julien Labet Poulsard En Billat Vielles Vignes. One of those wine I would drink everyday and they are so easy to find in (almost) any wine shop in Paris but so painful to get in London.
On Friday, I indulged into a Ulysse Collin Blanc de Blanc Champagne, from the 2006 vintage, this resembled more of a nice white burgundy than a champagne from the Congy (Aube). As usual I flash decanted and it eveloved nicely with tones of crushed almond, wet stones, some brioche but also with some yellow fruit (sorry but can't defined it better). It was a perfect match with a Lobster BLT (a much needed recharge before my Sat half marathon training).
On Saturday with the Match we kicked it off with 2 bottles of 2009 Zilliken Rausch Kabinett lovely indeed and very intriguing. We moved onto NV Pierre Peters Blanc de Blanc(s) Champagne I bought this a while ago (say 2 years) and the extended cellaring proved a good idea as some early bottles of this were a little disjointed. This one was nicely integrated and a good pair with salmon tartare and onion creme fraiche. With goat cheese, asparagus, lemon zest and pink peppercors I served some 2007 Pascal Cotat Monte Damnes that was in wonderful shape though it would have benefited from a crisper dish. The laser like acidity and the impressive backbone were not ideal with the food. The other 11 bottles should age gracefully. 2007 Foillard Morgon Cuvee 3.14 was a profound example of Gamay that deserves to be drunk on its own in order to follow its evolution rather than rush through it as a side with a steak tartate.
With the Ginger Pig Cote du Boeuf (1.2kg for each rib to be shared by 2 guests) and Jersey Royals cooked in Goose Fat, roasted aubgergines with garlic and mint, 1992 Cheveillon NSG 1er Vaucrains was gamey, wild, intense yet fully mature and everybody agreed was the best wine but as we progressed through the meat the 1996 Cheveillon NSG 1er Vaucrains shined through and its fresheness was evident to everyone. Sometimes off vintages are much better in heat of the moment with food and other wines should be reserved for afterthoughts.
With cheeses was the turn of Tuborg Påskebryg , brewed in Denmark for Easter only. A fresh fresh ale that is much lighter than the winter counterpart. On the other hand 2009 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese #15 was very difficutl to read as the Domprobst is usually very closed at this early stage plus the salinity of the vineyard and the purity of 2009 at the Auslese level were not given away any of the sweetness that you would expect from such a bottling/praedikat. A Spatlese in the guise of an Auslese.
On the other hand the Chef's privilege bottle (tasted only by myself over the course of the meal with leftovers left to the guests) was 2007 Fritz Haag Braunberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Spatlese #14 Auction a magnificent wine coming into its prime drinking window. Almond and white peach and a touch of petrol were there as you would expect from the BJS and the density was extremely well support by an amazing acidity. If this is not the Spatlese of the vintage (some would argue in the guise of an Auslese), well show me another example.
On Sunday, to wrap it up a lovely bottle of 2009 Julien Labet Poulsard En Billat Vielles Vignes. One of those wine I would drink everyday and they are so easy to find in (almost) any wine shop in Paris but so painful to get in London.