another afternoon tasting

Jonathan Loesberg

Jonathan Loesberg
First Charvin. No news there. I liked everything. The 09 reminds me somewhat of the 01, rich and complex at the same time. Laurent also gave us a taste of the 10, a mix of the two parcels. At this point, it showed bright fruit, lots of tannin and a dark fruit nose. I don't know what years to compare it to. It's not the Parker lover's favorite, like the 07, 05 and 03 (though the 05 is drinking beautifully and not at all as one would have guessed these days). But while it has the complexity of the 04, it seems more profound. I'm not great at tasting wines this young so it could be a floozy (which will be OK with me), but it could be a fascinating and different wine. We also tasted the CdPs from 08 and 04. Anyone who has tasted the 08 knows how well it is drinking now. The 04 gets better every year for me.

Then went looking for some whites because it is supposed to be almost summer here, not that you could tell from last week's weather. We tasted 3 at Vindea. Grand Tinel was the kind of white that makes people write these wines off, open, floral, but uninteresting. Pierre Usseglio, 2010, is a little floozier than in past years. Evidently some of it is going through barrique. I didn't get wood or vanilla, just a smokiness that seemed different. The best of the lot was from a Domaine called Saumade (never heard of it) from 2009. Same cepages as Usseglio but much more steely and minerally.

Finally, because the tasting room was across the street from where we parked and because it had a poster with Asterix and Obelix claiming it was a magic potion, we went in to taste at the town storefront for Eddie Feraud. Always follow Asterix and Obelix. We tasted the 06, 08 and 09. The 08 was a nicely spicy CdP. The 06, which had been kept in foudre for 4 years, was absolutely animale. The09 was cut from the same cloth. All three seemed genuine old style CdP. I will look for them in the US.

And now my moment of bad guessing. We were at a tasting of Cairanne wines last Saturday and the wine that stood out was a cuvee of a place called Domaine Roche called La Bousquette. Old vines they said. 2009. At the tasting, we liked it and bought three bottles. Then we opened one to go with dinner a couple of nights later. The alcohol on the nose buried almost everything else. It still had nice fruit on the palate, but it was too big and too alcoholic. If someone told me Cambie was consulting there, I wouldn't be surprised. Why do wines one tastes an ounce of taste better than wines one has a glass of at dinner? Ah, well, live and learn.
 
And now my moment of bad guessing. We were at a tasting of Cairanne wines last Saturday and the wine that stood out was a cuvee of a place called Domaine Roche called La Bousquette. Old vines they said. 2009. At the tasting, we liked it and bought three bottles. Then we opened one to go with dinner a couple of nights later. The alcohol on the nose buried almost everything else. It still had nice fruit on the palate, but it was too big and too alcoholic. If someone told me Cambie was consulting there, I wouldn't be surprised. Why do wines one tastes an ounce of taste better than wines one has a glass of at dinner? Ah, well, live and learn.

I remember being shocked and embarrassed, retroactively, by what I had and hadn't liked at some big 1996 bordeaux tasting when they were being released.

It's becoming more and more difficult.

Have I learned to recalibrate? Not really. But you will see more question marks in my tasting notes than there used to be, and if it's a producer I really care about, I end up quickly buying a bottle to have at home over the following day or two. Really glad I've done this with a few 2009s.
 
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:

The best of the lot was from a Domaine called Saumade (never heard of it) from 2009. Same cepages as Usseglio but much more steely and minerally.

Not Domaine de la Soumade in Rasteau? Never heard of a white from there, but who knows what's available in France?

Finally, because the tasting room was across the street from where we parked and because it had a poster with Asterix and Obelix claiming it was a magic potion, we went in to taste at the town storefront for Eddie Feraud. Always follow Asterix and Obelix. We tasted the 06, 08 and 09. The 08 was a nicely spicy CdP. The 06, which had been kept in foudre for 4 years, was absolutely animale. The09 was cut from the same cloth. All three seemed genuine old style CdP. I will look for them in the US.

Eddie Feraud is a cousin of Laurence Feraud of Pegau and does indeed makes old school CdP. He's brought in by J et R in Michigan, but may very well have other importers, too.

Why do wines one tastes an ounce of taste better than wines one has a glass of at dinner? Ah, well, live and learn.

Is it possible that it was cooler where you tasted them than where you had dinner?

Mark Lipton
 
1) It was Saumade and not Soumade. I don't know of any white from Soumade, much less a white CdP.

2)I knew Eddie Feraud was Laurence's cousin and Paul's nephew (I think that's the relationshsip). But that doesn't necessarily mean he makes good wine. There are more Sabons than you can shake a stick at around here and they make all kinds of different wines.

3)I think ambient temperatures would have been pretty similar. It's possible that the wines at the tasting still had some cave chill on them and were kept cool. And I drank the wine at home from larger glasses rather than the small ones they use for large tastings around here. Still, if that accounts for the difference, then I would say that I should start drinking Cambie wines, just out of the fridge in small, cheap wine glasses since they don't taste half bad that way.

4)Thanks for the info, PAB. I guess it's nice to know I can spot the Cambie touch, even if only the second time around.
 
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
1) It was Saumade and not Soumade. I don't know of any white from Soumade, much less a white CdP.

2)I knew Eddie Feraud was Laurence's cousin and Paul's nephew (I think that's the relationshsip). But that doesn't necessarily mean he makes good wine. There are more Sabons than you can shake a stick at around here and they make all kinds of different wines.

3)I think ambient temperatures would have been pretty similar. It's possible that the wines at the tasting still had some cave chill on them and were kept cool. And I drank the wine at home from larger glasses rather than the small ones they use for large tastings around here. Still, if that accounts for the difference, then I would say that I should start drinking Cambie wines, just out of the fridge in small, cheap wine glasses since they don't taste half bad that way.

4)Thanks for the info, PAB. I guess it's nice to know I can spot the Cambie touch, even if only the second time around.

I thought you might have been referring to de la Soumade and Andre Romero except for the 'white' aspect so assume it was Domaine des Saumades - Frank & Muriel Mousset. The Blanc CdP is 40% Grenache Blanc, 30% Clairette and 30% Bourboulenc and partly aged in barriques for 6 months.
More recently it has been described as Grenache Blanc and Clairette at around 40% each with the balancing 20% made up of Bourboulenc with a dab of Roussanne for aromatic good measure.
 
originally posted by nigel groundwater:
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
1) It was Saumade and not Soumade. I don't know of any white from Soumade, much less a white CdP.

2)I knew Eddie Feraud was Laurence's cousin and Paul's nephew (I think that's the relationshsip). But that doesn't necessarily mean he makes good wine. There are more Sabons than you can shake a stick at around here and they make all kinds of different wines.

3)I think ambient temperatures would have been pretty similar. It's possible that the wines at the tasting still had some cave chill on them and were kept cool. And I drank the wine at home from larger glasses rather than the small ones they use for large tastings around here. Still, if that accounts for the difference, then I would say that I should start drinking Cambie wines, just out of the fridge in small, cheap wine glasses since they don't taste half bad that way.

4)Thanks for the info, PAB. I guess it's nice to know I can spot the Cambie touch, even if only the second time around.

I thought you might have been referring to de la Soumade and Andre Romero except for the 'white' aspect so assume it was Domaine des Saumades - Frank & Muriel Mousset. The Blanc CdP is 40% Grenache Blanc, 30% Clairette and 30% Bourboulenc and partly aged in barriques for 6 months.
More recently it has been described as Grenache Blanc and Clairette at around 40% each with the balancing 20% made up of Bourboulenc with a dab of Roussanne for aromatic good measure.

I was at Vindea so they could have been wrong, but they said the wine was aged in cuve. I didn't taste barriques, which, of course, doesn't mean it wasn't there.
 
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
originally posted by nigel groundwater:
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
1) It was Saumade and not Soumade. I don't know of any white from Soumade, much less a white CdP.

2)I knew Eddie Feraud was Laurence's cousin and Paul's nephew (I think that's the relationshsip). But that doesn't necessarily mean he makes good wine. There are more Sabons than you can shake a stick at around here and they make all kinds of different wines.

3)I think ambient temperatures would have been pretty similar. It's possible that the wines at the tasting still had some cave chill on them and were kept cool. And I drank the wine at home from larger glasses rather than the small ones they use for large tastings around here. Still, if that accounts for the difference, then I would say that I should start drinking Cambie wines, just out of the fridge in small, cheap wine glasses since they don't taste half bad that way.

4)Thanks for the info, PAB. I guess it's nice to know I can spot the Cambie touch, even if only the second time around.

I thought you might have been referring to de la Soumade and Andre Romero except for the 'white' aspect so assume it was Domaine des Saumades - Frank & Muriel Mousset. The Blanc CdP is 40% Grenache Blanc, 30% Clairette and 30% Bourboulenc and partly aged in barriques for 6 months.
More recently it has been described as Grenache Blanc and Clairette at around 40% each with the balancing 20% made up of Bourboulenc with a dab of Roussanne for aromatic good measure.

I was at Vindea so they could have been wrong, but they said the wine was aged in cuve. I didn't taste barriques, which, of course, doesn't mean it wasn't there.

If by "didn't taste barriques" you mean to convey that you didn't taste oak that would presumably depend on the age of the oak and how much of it the wine saw - the reference was to being 'partly aged in barriques'.

However if they said that the wine didn't see any oak ageing I would be surprised since all the comments I have seen reference some oak ageing although only one specifically mentioned 'barriques' which of course may be inaccurate.

However my main reason for posting was to help clarify the producer. They have a decent rep which is in line with your favourable comment.

Frank also owns Clos Saint Michel [with his brother Olivier] where they also make red and white CdPs and some CdR; the white Clos St. Michel CdP has a similar cepage to the Saumades except there is more Roussanne.
 
I interpret barrique to mean those evil little barrels that add wood to the finish and tastes of vanilla, not just any oak. Foudre bothers me less, but is rarely used for whites, here at least. The Danish site does also affirm that some of the wine gets put in barrique. And a glass this afternoon did show some on the finish, so Vindea may well have misled me. It's still not very woody and still a nice CdP white.

I'm not a big fan of Clos St. Michel white, or wasn't some years ago, at least in the US. It did show its Kacher provenance here.
 
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:

And now my moment of bad guessing. We were at a tasting of Cairanne wines last Saturday and the wine that stood out was a cuvee of a place called Domaine Roche called La Bousquette. Old vines they said. 2009. At the tasting, we liked it and bought three bottles. Then we opened one to go with dinner a couple of nights later. The alcohol on the nose buried almost everything else. It still had nice fruit on the palate, but it was too big and too alcoholic. If someone told me Cambie was consulting there, I wouldn't be surprised. Why do wines one tastes an ounce of taste better than wines one has a glass of at dinner? Ah, well, live and learn.

sensory adaptation is a bitch. with smell, it's clear that different folks adapt to different things at different rates. for some reason, alcohol is the last thing i adapt to, which means i wouldn't have made your bad guess, but would have screwed up in some other way instead.

try this experiment next time you taste through a line up of boozy wines: put some some cold tea in a water bottle and take it with you. taste through the wines as normal, then take a chug on the tea and revisit the wine you tasted last. chances are, the alcohol will pop.

fb.
 
originally posted by fatboy:

sensory adaptation is a bitch. with smell, it's clear that different folks adapt to different things at different rates. for some reason, alcohol is the last thing i adapt to, which means i wouldn't have made your bad guess, but would have screwed up in some other way instead.

I think I adapt to alcohol faster than you do. Which sucks, because it's my least favourite of the great evils. I am however on constant alert for possible symptoms of alcohol, among which can be a loss of detail underneath something smooth. Plenty of false positives, but not tasting blind does help matters.
 
I find that if I am, say, tasting 250 wines in small doses at a portfolio tasting, that the tannic buildup gets to be such that those smooth and simple alcohol flavors start to taste refreshing on the palate. They are a palliative in scratchy palate circumstances.

But then when you come at those same bottles at dinner: disaster.
 
originally posted by Levi Dalton:
I find that if I am, say, tasting 250 wines in small doses at a portfolio tasting, that the tannic buildup gets to be such that those smooth and simple alcohol flavors start to taste refreshing on the palate. They are a palliative in scratchy palate circumstances.

But then when you come at those same bottles at dinner: disaster.

Well, I didn't have the excuse of 250 tastes. But the disaster part, yeah.
 
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