Michael Dashe
Michael Dashe
Personally, I think it's a little funny that all these people who don't actually pick grapes are making these blanket statements about alc levels and climate.
Without question, winemakers have been rewarded by publications for producing riper, extracted, high alcohol wines. It's a stylistic choice for many.
But empirically, I've been noticing changes in ripening patterns since the early 90's. When I joined Ridge vineyards in '89, the grapes for virtually all of our Sonoma vineyards tasted physiologically ripe at Brix levels of 23.5 or 24--the seeds were sclerified and brown, the stems had changed color, the flavors were complex. As the 90s progressed, we observed that the vines did not ripen grapes the same way--at those lower Brix levels, the seeds were green and the flavors unripe. It didn't help that there was often a blast of heat right at the final weeks of ripening that dehydrated berries before full ripeness occurred. At any rate, the alcohols slowly increased year by year not because of a desire to make riper wines--they just wouldn't have made good wine if we had picked at our traditional lower Brix levels.
Personally, I'm trying to find grapes in slightly cooler microclimates so that I can get grapes in a lower sugars and produce lower alcohol wines, because I enjoy drinking those wines. It requires changes in winemaking techniques and vineyard practices to produce interesting wines with lower alcohols in California. Years like 2010 help, because it was a cooler year and the long hang time produced ripe flavors at lower sugars. But years like that have been the exception in the past decade and a half.
I've got to say that the report that Oswaldo started this thread with looks flawed to me--it doesn't take into account the fact that some winemakers do want to make higher alcohol wines for reasons of salability or marketing. I'd love to see the statistics the report is based on. Looks fishy to me.
Without question, winemakers have been rewarded by publications for producing riper, extracted, high alcohol wines. It's a stylistic choice for many.
But empirically, I've been noticing changes in ripening patterns since the early 90's. When I joined Ridge vineyards in '89, the grapes for virtually all of our Sonoma vineyards tasted physiologically ripe at Brix levels of 23.5 or 24--the seeds were sclerified and brown, the stems had changed color, the flavors were complex. As the 90s progressed, we observed that the vines did not ripen grapes the same way--at those lower Brix levels, the seeds were green and the flavors unripe. It didn't help that there was often a blast of heat right at the final weeks of ripening that dehydrated berries before full ripeness occurred. At any rate, the alcohols slowly increased year by year not because of a desire to make riper wines--they just wouldn't have made good wine if we had picked at our traditional lower Brix levels.
Personally, I'm trying to find grapes in slightly cooler microclimates so that I can get grapes in a lower sugars and produce lower alcohol wines, because I enjoy drinking those wines. It requires changes in winemaking techniques and vineyard practices to produce interesting wines with lower alcohols in California. Years like 2010 help, because it was a cooler year and the long hang time produced ripe flavors at lower sugars. But years like that have been the exception in the past decade and a half.
I've got to say that the report that Oswaldo started this thread with looks flawed to me--it doesn't take into account the fact that some winemakers do want to make higher alcohol wines for reasons of salability or marketing. I'd love to see the statistics the report is based on. Looks fishy to me.