Christophe comes to town

Cliff

Cliff Rosenberg
An old friend came to visit, which required some difficult choices in the cellar, time and liver capacity being what they are. On the whole, I thought the wines showed very well. The company was even better.

Started off with some simple snacks, cheese, olives, and the like; then we moved on to lamb chops with polenta and sautéed vegetables. The Rinaldi was particularly good -- looks like Bacchus was smiling, as I've seen some disparaging notes.

2007 Tenute Dettori Bianco - Wow, is that Vermentino? Who knew it could do this? Deep copper color, citrus peel, clove, and orange goodness.
1964 Francesco Rinaldi e Figli Barolo - Simply beautiful. The aromatics were so impressive I was almost afraid to taste it: layers of bright red fruits with hints of leather and earth. The color was surprisingly bright and fresh and the palate followed the nose, if faintly. It just couldn't reach the same heights, display the same sense of depth. The palate was no slouch, mind you, just not quite up to the superlative aromatics.

With poached salmon, followed by a spinach salad with Roquefort and orange wedges. Hirtzberger stole the show.

2004 Jacques Puffeney Trousseau Arbois Les Berangères - It lacks the tension it had earlier in life but is getting to an interesting place. This demands attention at this stage; it's not speaking loudly, but it has plenty to say. Very delicate, a little soft, with the usual red fruits but more velvet in texture than usual.
1994 Franz Hirtzberger Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Honivogl - A beautiful showing - à point now but no rush. Still fresh, it has the rainwater over stones quality I love, an opulent mouthfeel yet fresh and poised at the same time.
2000 Domaine de Montbourgeau L'Etoile, Savagnin - Showing very well, early prime time but eons left. This is potent stuff and yet wonderfully complex. Maybe my expectations are playing tricks on me, but it seems less refined than their Vin Jaune.

Filet de boeuf with roasted tomatoes and a fresh garden salad from the first delivery of the year for our CSA

2004 Rhys Chardonnay Alpine Vineyard - Did not disappoint. No hint of the hot vintage. Beautiful texture with floral overtones and deft use of wood.
1990 Chateau La Conseillante - Slow ox'ed for a 3-4 hours, it needed more air: into the decanter for another couple of hours. I was shocked by the prominence of Cab Franc -- I didn't realize there was any before tasting. I was also surprised by how restrained and relatively unevolved it seemed. All that said, it was a very lovely bottle. Tobacco, black fruits, clean earth, opening up on the palate but with plenty of room to grow.
1990 Chateau d'Yquem - My first time with this wine. Here too, I was expecting something more opulent, more obvious. The delicacy and restraint struck me. I had to really listen to hear what it had to say, which was quite a lot. It filled out with air. Decanting might have been a good idea.
 
originally posted by Cliff:
1990 Chateau d'Yquem - My first time with this wine. Here too, I was expecting something more opulent, more obvious. The delicacy and restraint struck me. I had to really listen to hear what it had to say, which was quite a lot. It filled out with air. Decanting might have been a good idea.
Nicely put.
Best, Jim
 
originally posted by Cliff:
2000 Domaine de Montbourgeau L'Etoile - Showing very well, early prime time but eons left. This is potent stuff and yet wonderfully complex. Maybe my expectations are playing tricks on me, but it seems less refined than their Vin Jaune.

Should that surprise? (And I avoid the customary chardonnay joke.) But more generally, shorter élevage, less noble breeding, etc. etc. etc.
 
At first I thought that was one big meal, which led to me believe that you folks really know how to put it away.

Otherwise, some nice wines there!
 
originally posted by Sharon Bowman:
originally posted by Cliff:
2000 Domaine de Montbourgeau L'Etoile - Showing very well, early prime time but eons left. This is potent stuff and yet wonderfully complex. Maybe my expectations are playing tricks on me, but it seems less refined than their Vin Jaune.

Should that surprise? (And I avoid the customary chardonnay joke.) But more generally, shorter élevage, less noble breeding, etc. etc. etc.

In retrospect, maybe not so surprising -- yes re less noble and shorter elevage. But the Etoile was Savagnin, not Chardonnay.

originally posted by Rahsaan, not Oswaldo:
At first I thought that was one big meal, which led to me believe that you folks really know how to put it away.

The food was ample, but wow, all in one sitting: that would take some serious training! It was just two of us the first night, three the second two.
 
The Etoile is almost entirely chardonnay, unless it is the bottling marked "Savagnin" (which is the special pony). So perhaps add that in the description?
 
originally posted by Sharon Bowman:
The Etoile is almost entirely chardonnay, unless it is the bottling marked "Savagnin" (which is the special pony). So perhaps add that in the description?

You're right -- done.
 
No, I picked this up in what I think was the first of Chambers' big Austrian cellar acquisitions awhile back and have been waiting for an occasion.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
At first I thought that was one big meal, which led to me believe that you folks really know how to put it away.

originally posted by Oswaldo:
At first I thought that was one big meal, which led to me believe that you folks really know how to put it away.

Since we think as one, it might not be surprising that Rahsaan should morph into me.

Parenthetically, I was particularly admiring of the range of this selection.
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
originally posted by Rahsaan:
At first I thought that was one big meal, which led to me believe that you folks really know how to put it away.

originally posted by Oswaldo:
At first I thought that was one big meal, which led to me believe that you folks really know how to put it away.

Since we think as one, it might not be surprising that Rahsaan should morph into me.

Oops! Sorry about that. Fixed. I seem to have had too good a time to read properly.

originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
Parenthetically, I was particularly admiring of the range of this selection.

Thanks.
 
Back
Top