Desert Wines

MLipton

Mark Lipton
Not, not a misprint: these are the faint recollections of some wines consumed during a three-week trek through the desert Southwest, thankfully avoiding the fires still plaguing NM, which took in various National Parks as well as San Diego* and Las Vegas. What follows is necessarily sketchy, but more just notes of what proved memorable, for better or worse.

Total Wine in Las Vegas: visited owing to its proximity to REI and our need to depart town quickly. BevMo in a nutshell, but careful shopping produces a few decent wines.

2010 Grande Cassagne Rosé from the Costières de Nîmes proved to be the ideal rosé for an evening meal of ribs on the North Rim of the Grand Canyon: temperatures rapidly dipping into the low 60s kept the wine cool enough that the alcohol (14% IIRC) wasn't too obtrusive and helped keep us warm. At that temperature, the wine was appealingly minerally with the expected strawberryish fruit and crisp acidity.

2004 Weinbach "Clos des Capucins" Pinot Blanc was the standout selection at a surprisingly good dinner in a restaurant outside of Zion National Park. Vibrant, steely, dry, with a backdrop of fruit. Really, really nice and, no, it's wasn't the Réserve Personnelle.

2009 Freie Weingärtner Domäne Wachau Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Terrassen was its usual herbaceous and lithe self. Not overly complex, but a nice GV for drinking out of steel Sierra Club cups at elevation.

2007 Au Bon Climat "La Bauge Au-dessus" Pinot Noir was singing with our dinner at Downey's in Santa Barbara, our refuge from the 120° temperatures encountered in Death Valley. Smoky, light on its feet, deeply fruity with lovely balance. I do like Jim Clendennen's wines, and I'm glad I have some of them in the cellar, though I don't know if they'll be any better than their little sibling was on that night.

2001 Cottanera Mondeuse "L'Ardenza" was the best selection to be had from the extensive wine list at Terra Rossa at the Red Rock Resort in Las Vegas, a list with pages devoted to the wines of Gaja and Antinori. The decision was made clear when they proved to be out of the Travaligni Gattinara, too. Mondeuse from Etna? Decanted 15 minutes before it was served to us, it was intensely tarry, dark, filled with raspberry fruit and very acidic, later taking on a pronounced note of licorice. Had I been served it blind, I would have guessed an Amador County Zinfandel of the finest quality. As it was, what I presume to have been its oak treatment has, at age 10, integrated to the point at which it's become quite seamless. Interesting and appealing, if not likely to give Frank Peillot sleepless nights.

Mark Lipton

* Yes, I know that San Diego isn't in the desert Southwest, but we did have to attend a meeting there in the midst of our swing through the area.
 
Mark -

You were/are in my neighborhood in Las Vegas. You're right regarding Total Wine; it's best assest is being next door to REI! I have yet to eat at Terra Rossa, but go to the theater at Red Rock frequently...may have to stop in and give the Cottanera a try.
 
* Yes, I know that San Diego isn't in the desert Southwest, but we did have to attend a meeting there in the midst of our swing through the area.

Well, from my seat here in the land of potential hydrofracking, I'd say San Diego is DRY enough to qualify as desert. Heck, just go a hour or so east and you run into Anzo Borrego DESERT State Park!
 
originally posted by Matt Latuchie:
Mark -

You were/are in my neighborhood in Las Vegas. You're right regarding Total Wine; it's best assest is being next door to REI! I have yet to eat at Terra Rossa, but go to the theater at Red Rock frequently...may have to stop in and give the Cottanera a try.

The meal at Terra Rossa was quite good, but the service was slow for reasons not entirely clear to us. The shows at Red Rock looked interesting: they were bringing in some big name acts and Grace Potter and the Nocturnals was playing the night after we left.

Mark Lipton
 
originally posted by MLipton:

2004 Weinbach "Clos des Capucins" Pinot Blanc was the standout selection at a surprisingly good dinner in a restaurant outside of Zion National Park. Vibrant, steely, dry, with a backdrop of fruit. Really, really nice and, no, it's wasn't the Réserve Personnelle.

Laura and I had a few good meals outside of Zion back in 2009. The best two were both at a tiny "Mexican" place that was a converted gas station about 300 yards from the entrance to the park.

Which place was your dinner at? There were a few places with decent wine lists, some had better food than others.
 
originally posted by Matt Latuchie:
You're right regarding Total Wine; it's best asset is being next door to REI!

Actually, I rather like Total Wine. Their staff members actually have to know something about wine and most that I've met have an interest in the subject over and above just knowing what they need to know to work the floor. The individual stores I've been in have a broader selection of wines and the prices are very competitive with the other box store alternatives (BevMo, Costco, Supermarkets) and even most independent wine shops as you get away from major metropolitan centers. Depending on where you are in the US, there are often more buying options for a geek at a Total Wine than there are in the local "fine wine" shop.

-Eden (Wilfred Wong is actually a pretty accomplished taster but I'm not sure he's got the corporate support he should have in terms of the purchasing)
 
originally posted by Eden Mylunsch:

(Wilfred Wong is actually a pretty accomplished taster but I'm not sure he's got the corporate support he should have in terms of the purchasing)
It's been downhill for Wilfred ever since he left Tower Market.
 
originally posted by Eden Mylunsch:
originally posted by Matt Latuchie:
You're right regarding Total Wine; it's best asset is being next door to REI!

Actually, I rather like Total Wine. Their staff members actually have to know something about wine and most that I've met have an interest in the subject over and above just knowing what they need to know to work the floor. The individual stores I've been in have a broader selection of wines and the prices are very competitive with the other box store alternatives (BevMo, Costco, Supermarkets) and even most independent wine shops as you get away from major metropolitan centers. Depending on where you are in the US, there are often more buying options for a geek at a Total Wine than there are in the local "fine wine" shop.

-Eden (Wilfred Wong is actually a pretty accomplished taster but I'm not sure he's got the corporate support he should have in terms of the purchasing)

Sadly, the Total Wine around the corner from me in Las Vegas doesn't have a very knowledgable crew. Was in there a couple weeks ago looking for some Oregon chardonnay and asked for helping since their domestic chardonnay section is the size of a football field! I asked two team members and both hadn't even known chardonnay was being produced in Oregon!

The shop does have a really nice selection of domestic pinot and cabernet, but their selection of German/Austrian/French wine is uninspiring.
 
originally posted by Matt Latuchie:
originally posted by Eden Mylunsch:
originally posted by Matt Latuchie:
You're right regarding Total Wine; it's best asset is being next door to REI!

Actually, I rather like Total Wine. Their staff members actually have to know something about wine and most that I've met have an interest in the subject over and above just knowing what they need to know to work the floor. The individual stores I've been in have a broader selection of wines and the prices are very competitive with the other box store alternatives (BevMo, Costco, Supermarkets) and even most independent wine shops as you get away from major metropolitan centers. Depending on where you are in the US, there are often more buying options for a geek at a Total Wine than there are in the local "fine wine" shop.

-Eden (Wilfred Wong is actually a pretty accomplished taster but I'm not sure he's got the corporate support he should have in terms of the purchasing)

Sadly, the Total Wine around the corner from me in Las Vegas doesn't have a very knowledgable crew. Was in there a couple weeks ago looking for some Oregon chardonnay and asked for helping since their domestic chardonnay section is the size of a football field! I asked two team members and both hadn't even known chardonnay was being produced in Oregon!

The shop does have a really nice selection of domestic pinot and cabernet, but their selection of German/Austrian/French wine is uninspiring.

Probably those clerks were just some Romorantin snobs trying to mess with you a little bit.
 
originally posted by Eden Mylunsch:

Actually, I rather like Total Wine. Their staff members actually have to know something about wine and most that I've met have an interest in the subject over and above just knowing what they need to know to work the floor. The individual stores I've been in have a broader selection of wines and the prices are very competitive with the other box store alternatives (BevMo, Costco, Supermarkets) and even most independent wine shops as you get away from major metropolitan centers. Depending on where you are in the US, there are often more buying options for a geek at a Total Wine than there are in the local "fine wine" shop.

It may differ from store to store, Eden. The one in Las Vegas did not differ substantially from the BevMos I've visited in terms of selection. To wit, their Beaujolais selection was limited entirely to the DuBoeuf wines with only one unremarkable exception (Ch. de la Chaize). The German and Austrian selections included nothing of interest and likewise with their Burgundies until one got to the pricey Grand Cru wines. In fact, the only importer in evidence there was a guy I'd never heard of. No Kermit Lynch, no Weygandt-Metzler, no Rosenthal, no LDM, no Theise/Skurnik, not even any Kacher. I did score some '07 Ridge Geyserville there and they also had the '06 Produttori Barbaresco, but that was about it, I'm afraid.

Mark Lipton
 
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