Christian Miller (CMM)
Christian Miller
Thanks to the board for the sundry recommendations, although family obligations and rushing hither-thither kept us from following up on most of them. Stream-of-consciousness notes from a week in Southern Tuscany and several days in Rome:
First of all, I was astounded at the quality of coffee in Italy. The dingiest dive in the airport serves better coffee that 90% of the barristas in the East Bay (which takes its coffee seriously). Caffeinated heaven, no wonder I had so much energy there.
Conversely, we were shocked at the mediocre state of bakeries and bread. There aren't many bakeries and those that we encountered often carried just a few types, some of them so spartan and mediocre, they looked like some stereotype of an eastern bloc bakery circa 1980. The choice in supermarkets ranged from the Italian equivalent of Wonder bread to bizarre and austere "healthy" breads. We ran across some good bread, but it was the exception rather than the rule.
What the EU really needs to focus on is some kind of exchange program whereby the Italians teach the French how to make coffee and the French teach the Italians how to run a proper boulangerie.
Tuscany is as beautiful as everyone says, perhaps even more so. It even smelled incredibly good, a melange of wildflowers, linden trees in bloom, jasmine and herbs.
We stayed at two charming places:
--Locanda Rosati just outside Orvieto, very friendly, good value, nice family style dinners with produce from the gardens, in an old restored farmhouse with large well-appointed rooms.
--La Foce: a small hamlet that is the anchor of a sprawling agricultural estate, familiar to readers of Iris Origo's War in the Val d'Orcia or her memoirs. They have restored and rent some of the old farmhouses on what's left of the estate. They are beautiful, with substantial kitchens and stunning views to the south over the val d'Orcia. The main old farmhouse (originally a fortified farm and pilgrim's inn, it still has its gate and courtyard) also has a pool and a dining room where they do offer meals if reserved ahead of time. The food is simple, local, honest and tasty if not exciting - the standard Tuscan crostini-pasta-meat/poultry/contorni formula. The house Rosso di Montepulciano is good and the estate olive oils diverse and tasty. The gardens at the main estate building are exquisite. Highly recommended.
--In Rome we rented an apartment in the rowdier section of Trastevere, very entertaining though not conducive to a good night's sleep.
Food:
--we loved Osteria Acquacheta in Montepulciano, its zany owner, jolly waitress, rustic and flavorful local cooking: pici (pasta) with goose, seared zucchini with pecorino di pienza, eggplant roasted in the wood-burning oven, ricotta with honey and chestnuts, etc. The specialty is actually bistecca Fiorentina, ultra-rare, not really our thing but others in the family loved it. Superb house Rosso di Montepulciano, intense yet light on it's feet, vibrant Sangiovese. No nonsense attitude - you get one glass for water, wine, whatever; you order cafe at the end of your meal, don't bother them for cappucino, latte, whatever.
--In Pienza, La Bucca della Fatte (thank you Matteo) had very good roast pork, salad with the usual suspects, pici with tomatoes.
--If you're tired of the same old Roman menu (pasta carbonara/amatriciana, Coda alla Vaccinara, Carciofi, pizza), we found Bisque in the Trastevere neighborhood a nice change of pace. A stark modern seafood restaurant with rather innovative first courses, more traditional but sparkling fresh secondi. Particularly tasty were an amuse-gueule of scallop in a citrus sauce; a lasagna of buckwheat noodles, chard, and ricotta; a spaghetti with a concentrated lobster sauce, nestled with chunks of lobster in the tail; an impeccably fresh mixed grill of fish, shrimp and clams.
--Pecorino Toscano - why don't we see more of this cheese here in the U.S.? The quality of the matured artisanal versions from the Pienza region is astonishing - the flavor resembles a synthesis of the best Manchego and Tomme de Savoie. The fresh versions are mild but unctuous, delicious enriching a pasta sauce or garnishing veggies. Interestingly, the local Tuscans whom I asked about it said frankly "actually we Tuscans didn't make good cheese until the wave of Sardinian immigrants came to Tuscany in the 50s."
Drink: We enjoyed visits to Valdipiatta and Poliziano estates near Montepulciano.
--Valdipiatta makes ripe and clean but not particularly modern style Vino Nobile, destemming and mild crush, aging mostly in older barriques and larger casks. The wines have vigorous fruit, decent acidity, ripe but no pruniness or raisining, nor overt oakiness. The 2005 Vino Nobile Riserva was more old-fashioned with woodsy and burnt wax complexities over dry earthy and leaner fruit. The 2007 Vino Nobile was darker, riper with plummy-mulberry fruit, a bit of the burnt wax tone, very long and dark fruited finish with fine-grained tannins. On the non-traditional side, they make an IGT "Super Tuscan" (who doesn't) of Sangiovese and Cabernet +20% Canaiolo, that's a bit more restrained than some, just a middle weight with nice cedary Bordelaise complexity. They also make an interesting white wine with the curious combination of 50% free run Canaiolo juice, Trebbiano, Grechetto and Malvasia. Bone dry, ever so slightly oxidized, it has an intriguing leafy-almond Marsanne-like flavor. Finally they also make Pinot Noir (Nero), a surprise here in Tuscany. Yes, it's rather warm for Pinot admits Lidia the winemaker, but they are pleased with the quality from a rather high altitude vineyard (shades of Clos Saron in the Sierra Foothills). Indeed, the 2006 is not particularly heavy and shows classic PN aroma and flavor with woodsy-clovey notes and some autumnal decay, plus decent acidity.
--Poliziano is larger and more "internationalist" but has not slipped into oaky, gobby anonymity. The 07 Vino Nobile is rounder and softer than Valdipiatta and adds an interesting cigarbox note. The Asinone vineyard Vino Nobile 06 is maturing with deep cherry fruit, smoky-waxy tones, some French Oak but not dominant. The 07 Asinone is dryer, tougher and less open, but similar density and richness. Their IGT wine "Le Stanze" is all Bordeaux varieties, 70% CabS/30% Merlot, dramatic and intense earthy fruit with big deep tannic structure, iron-earthy tannins that remind me of Mount Veeder Cab. On one hand I have to admit it's very well-done, on the other I can get this kind of wine at home. Perhaps a little more exotic is the Mandrone di Lhosa, red wine from the Maremma region, very close to the Mediterranean; 80% Cab, 20% blend of Petit Verdot, Alicante, Carignano. Leafy, bay leaf, green peppercorn notes on top of round exuberant berry fruit; quite original. Insanely good Vin Santo here, from low yielding old vines, dried in the attic for months, gently pressed, long slow fermentation, followed by more attic maturation. Dense, unctuous yet not cloying, tea-honeyed complexity, a finish lasting forever.
--Beer: Rome in general, and Trastavere neighborhood in particular, seems to be in the grip of a craft brew fad. Everywhere were signs promoting birra artigianale, chalk board lists of beer, tap systems pumping out microbrews. Bir Y Fud, a funky bar/trattoria offering salads, salumi, pizza and beer (all of them good) had about 20 beers from all over the world (Dogfish representing the USA) on tap, including a number on an old hand pump system. Who knew?
First of all, I was astounded at the quality of coffee in Italy. The dingiest dive in the airport serves better coffee that 90% of the barristas in the East Bay (which takes its coffee seriously). Caffeinated heaven, no wonder I had so much energy there.
Conversely, we were shocked at the mediocre state of bakeries and bread. There aren't many bakeries and those that we encountered often carried just a few types, some of them so spartan and mediocre, they looked like some stereotype of an eastern bloc bakery circa 1980. The choice in supermarkets ranged from the Italian equivalent of Wonder bread to bizarre and austere "healthy" breads. We ran across some good bread, but it was the exception rather than the rule.
What the EU really needs to focus on is some kind of exchange program whereby the Italians teach the French how to make coffee and the French teach the Italians how to run a proper boulangerie.
Tuscany is as beautiful as everyone says, perhaps even more so. It even smelled incredibly good, a melange of wildflowers, linden trees in bloom, jasmine and herbs.
We stayed at two charming places:
--Locanda Rosati just outside Orvieto, very friendly, good value, nice family style dinners with produce from the gardens, in an old restored farmhouse with large well-appointed rooms.
--La Foce: a small hamlet that is the anchor of a sprawling agricultural estate, familiar to readers of Iris Origo's War in the Val d'Orcia or her memoirs. They have restored and rent some of the old farmhouses on what's left of the estate. They are beautiful, with substantial kitchens and stunning views to the south over the val d'Orcia. The main old farmhouse (originally a fortified farm and pilgrim's inn, it still has its gate and courtyard) also has a pool and a dining room where they do offer meals if reserved ahead of time. The food is simple, local, honest and tasty if not exciting - the standard Tuscan crostini-pasta-meat/poultry/contorni formula. The house Rosso di Montepulciano is good and the estate olive oils diverse and tasty. The gardens at the main estate building are exquisite. Highly recommended.
--In Rome we rented an apartment in the rowdier section of Trastevere, very entertaining though not conducive to a good night's sleep.
Food:
--we loved Osteria Acquacheta in Montepulciano, its zany owner, jolly waitress, rustic and flavorful local cooking: pici (pasta) with goose, seared zucchini with pecorino di pienza, eggplant roasted in the wood-burning oven, ricotta with honey and chestnuts, etc. The specialty is actually bistecca Fiorentina, ultra-rare, not really our thing but others in the family loved it. Superb house Rosso di Montepulciano, intense yet light on it's feet, vibrant Sangiovese. No nonsense attitude - you get one glass for water, wine, whatever; you order cafe at the end of your meal, don't bother them for cappucino, latte, whatever.
--In Pienza, La Bucca della Fatte (thank you Matteo) had very good roast pork, salad with the usual suspects, pici with tomatoes.
--If you're tired of the same old Roman menu (pasta carbonara/amatriciana, Coda alla Vaccinara, Carciofi, pizza), we found Bisque in the Trastevere neighborhood a nice change of pace. A stark modern seafood restaurant with rather innovative first courses, more traditional but sparkling fresh secondi. Particularly tasty were an amuse-gueule of scallop in a citrus sauce; a lasagna of buckwheat noodles, chard, and ricotta; a spaghetti with a concentrated lobster sauce, nestled with chunks of lobster in the tail; an impeccably fresh mixed grill of fish, shrimp and clams.
--Pecorino Toscano - why don't we see more of this cheese here in the U.S.? The quality of the matured artisanal versions from the Pienza region is astonishing - the flavor resembles a synthesis of the best Manchego and Tomme de Savoie. The fresh versions are mild but unctuous, delicious enriching a pasta sauce or garnishing veggies. Interestingly, the local Tuscans whom I asked about it said frankly "actually we Tuscans didn't make good cheese until the wave of Sardinian immigrants came to Tuscany in the 50s."
Drink: We enjoyed visits to Valdipiatta and Poliziano estates near Montepulciano.
--Valdipiatta makes ripe and clean but not particularly modern style Vino Nobile, destemming and mild crush, aging mostly in older barriques and larger casks. The wines have vigorous fruit, decent acidity, ripe but no pruniness or raisining, nor overt oakiness. The 2005 Vino Nobile Riserva was more old-fashioned with woodsy and burnt wax complexities over dry earthy and leaner fruit. The 2007 Vino Nobile was darker, riper with plummy-mulberry fruit, a bit of the burnt wax tone, very long and dark fruited finish with fine-grained tannins. On the non-traditional side, they make an IGT "Super Tuscan" (who doesn't) of Sangiovese and Cabernet +20% Canaiolo, that's a bit more restrained than some, just a middle weight with nice cedary Bordelaise complexity. They also make an interesting white wine with the curious combination of 50% free run Canaiolo juice, Trebbiano, Grechetto and Malvasia. Bone dry, ever so slightly oxidized, it has an intriguing leafy-almond Marsanne-like flavor. Finally they also make Pinot Noir (Nero), a surprise here in Tuscany. Yes, it's rather warm for Pinot admits Lidia the winemaker, but they are pleased with the quality from a rather high altitude vineyard (shades of Clos Saron in the Sierra Foothills). Indeed, the 2006 is not particularly heavy and shows classic PN aroma and flavor with woodsy-clovey notes and some autumnal decay, plus decent acidity.
--Poliziano is larger and more "internationalist" but has not slipped into oaky, gobby anonymity. The 07 Vino Nobile is rounder and softer than Valdipiatta and adds an interesting cigarbox note. The Asinone vineyard Vino Nobile 06 is maturing with deep cherry fruit, smoky-waxy tones, some French Oak but not dominant. The 07 Asinone is dryer, tougher and less open, but similar density and richness. Their IGT wine "Le Stanze" is all Bordeaux varieties, 70% CabS/30% Merlot, dramatic and intense earthy fruit with big deep tannic structure, iron-earthy tannins that remind me of Mount Veeder Cab. On one hand I have to admit it's very well-done, on the other I can get this kind of wine at home. Perhaps a little more exotic is the Mandrone di Lhosa, red wine from the Maremma region, very close to the Mediterranean; 80% Cab, 20% blend of Petit Verdot, Alicante, Carignano. Leafy, bay leaf, green peppercorn notes on top of round exuberant berry fruit; quite original. Insanely good Vin Santo here, from low yielding old vines, dried in the attic for months, gently pressed, long slow fermentation, followed by more attic maturation. Dense, unctuous yet not cloying, tea-honeyed complexity, a finish lasting forever.
--Beer: Rome in general, and Trastavere neighborhood in particular, seems to be in the grip of a craft brew fad. Everywhere were signs promoting birra artigianale, chalk board lists of beer, tap systems pumping out microbrews. Bir Y Fud, a funky bar/trattoria offering salads, salumi, pizza and beer (all of them good) had about 20 beers from all over the world (Dogfish representing the USA) on tap, including a number on an old hand pump system. Who knew?