Dinner at Il Corso

Matt Latuchie

Matt Latuchie
DINNER AT IL CORSO - Il Corso - NY, NY (7/19/2011)

Met up for dinner with Zach and Salil. One of the best dinners I've ever attended that featured wines with incredible polish and complexity. An absolute assault on my tastebuds.

Opening Whites

Popped a duo of exciting, complex whites. Had this alongside a nicely made arugala salad with roasted pears.

2008 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett #6 - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

Nose had exotic and dense tropical fruits with lanolin, petrichor and white flowers. What blows me away with this wine is its density but absolute airyness on the palate. Tasted blind I would have pegged this as a Spatlese without quesiton. Müller continues to impress. (93 pts.)
2009 Franz Hirtzberger Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Honivogl - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau

Another wild 2009 from Austria. As a little kid I used to eat Honey-Nut Cherrios every morning and the nose of this wine reminded me exactly of that. On top of the sweet grains was the ever-present pineapple, and mango. The palate was a kaleidoscope of flavors ranging from airy lanolin notes, to mid-weight white florals and dense pineapple. At times I thought it was a bit brutish, but that has more to do with its age than its composition. Really knocked my socks off this evening - but no question to me that this will uncoil over time. (93 pts.)

Main Course

What a collection of reds! Two burgundies and two rhones paired wonderfully well with braised beef short ribs over mashed potatoes. Great pairing.

2008 Cecile Tremblay Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Rouges du Dessus - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

From 40-year old vines that are merely a stones throw away from Grands Échezeaux it's easy to tell from the beginning that this is a serious wine in the making. Nose had just incredible depth featuring classic Vosne spice, some underbrush, lilac and elegant red berries. The palate was incredibly airy on the palate, yet packed incredibly density of flavor. Easy to tell that Tremblay is dealing with incredible fruit and that her techniques are top notch. Tasted blind, there's no question this would be pegged for a Grand Cru. Lovely wine! (94 pts.)
2008 Domaine David Clark Vosne-Romanée - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée

I have to agree with Salil here. Sadly, this was brought to a dinner that featured a collection of staggering wines and this was lost in the mix. As Salil mentioned this was a bit unforgiving at first with tightly wound red floral, spice and red fruit tones. Should be an interesting wine in a 7-10 years.
2006 Pierre Gonon St. Joseph Vieilles Vignes - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph

Big thanks to Zach for bringing this beauty along to dinner! What a wild nose - incredibly exotic meat tones, with leather, dense anise and lush dark fruit. The palate developed over the course of dinner to feature lithe lilac, subtle coffee grinds, and meat, meat, meat. I drank this alongisde braised short ribs which I must admit is about as close to a perfect pairing as I can imagine. While this is absolutely firing on all cylinders already, this will reward those with patience. (96 pts.)
1994 Noël Verset Cornas - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas

When I think about the key reason why I love Cornas', one word comes to mind; rusticity. This Verset, to me, had all the key aspects of rustic Northern Rhone syrah - and was the finest example of syrah I've ever had from this region. The aroma educed me with gamey notes, olive tapanade, underbrush and lithe red fruit. The flavors were very deep and pure - seamlessly integrated. The palate made me smile - incredibly lengthy with beef broth undertones, beautiful spice, dried leaves, and red fruit. Seemed to be drinking at its prime. This is why I drink wine. Thanks for bringing the bottle along Salil. (97 pts.)

Posted from CellarTracker
 
Thanks for invite guys! :-P

How am I supposed to resist opening my Gonons when one of you writes an orgasm-filled review here and on Cellartracker?
 
I was happy to pop this bottle - my only one. There is always more wine.

And hey, if you promise to open a Gonon, you're invited next time!
 
Anyone else do well in 1994 in Cornas? If I remember correctly, Jay has said he doesn't like the 94 Versets he's had, but perhaps he'd have been persuaded by Salil's bottle - absolutely magnificent wine, the best I've had this year.
 
originally posted by Zachary Ross:
Anyone else do well in 1994 in Cornas? If I remember correctly, Jay has said he doesn't like the 94 Versets he's had, but perhaps he'd have been persuaded by Salil's bottle - absolutely magnificent wine, the best I've had this year.

1994 Allemand are great. Sans souffre was stellar 2 years ago.

Anyhow, miles away from the best wines from '91, '95, '97, '01...
 
originally posted by Zachary Ross:
Anyone else do well in 1994 in Cornas? If I remember correctly, Jay has said he doesn't like the 94 Versets he's had, but perhaps he'd have been persuaded by Salil's bottle - absolutely magnificent wine, the best I've had this year.

I don't remember saying that but your memory is probably better than mine. Allemand is beautiful in 1994 and sentimental favorite as it's the first vintage I had.
 
originally posted by Jay Miller:
originally posted by Zachary Ross:
Anyone else do well in 1994 in Cornas? If I remember correctly, Jay has said he doesn't like the 94 Versets he's had, but perhaps he'd have been persuaded by Salil's bottle - absolutely magnificent wine, the best I've had this year.

I don't remember saying that but your memory is probably better than mine. Allemand is beautiful in 1994 and sentimental favorite as it's the first vintage I had.

Maybe not! I also may be misremembering.
 
Juge SC was very good as well, if you like that style. I also had a very nice Vincent Gasse St-Joseph from a Paris stash not too long ago, although it was probably better a few years ago.
 
Ah Trollat, another hero of yesteryear I'll probably never have the chance to try. Sigh. At least the Gonons are excelling with his old vines - the 06 VV is out of this world great.
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
The '94 Trollat also looms large in my mind.

That had to be close to his last vintage, no? Lucky you. While I've had my fair share of Versets, no Trollat has crossed my palate.

Mark Lipton
 
originally posted by MLipton:
originally posted by SFJoe:
The '94 Trollat also looms large in my mind.

That had to be close to his last vintage, no? Lucky you. While I've had my fair share of Versets, no Trollat has crossed my palate.

Mark Lipton
Lucky me, indeed.

Joe Dressner forced me to pay more than I ever would have for a bottle once, and it was well worth it.
 
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